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  #21  
Old 06/20/13, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmboyBill View Post
THIS IS A brand new roll of #40 chain. I just went to TSC and they didn't have 1/2 links that size. I only took out 1 pin to get the length I needed.
You will need to use a master link to put the chain back together, so you have to take out 2 links in order to shorten it by 1 link.
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  #22  
Old 06/20/13, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmboyBill View Post
THIS IS A brand new roll of #40 chain. I just went to TSC and they didn't have 1/2 links that size. I only took out 1 pin to get the length I needed.
Count the links on the old chain, then count the same number on the new chain, that is the length you need. You will most likely find that your old chain has stretched over time to make up the difference between one and two pins.
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  #23  
Old 06/20/13, 04:40 PM
 
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Location: MN
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BILL - if you are working on a baler, is it the chain that times the knotters and twine arms?

Be real real real sure you got that thing timed right if it is, or you will shear the twine needles right off.

Dad got in a hurry and did that with our baler when I was little, it sure makes a mess.....

I'm sure you know, just mentioning.....

Paul
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  #24  
Old 06/20/13, 05:08 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
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No, its the chain that operates the Bill hooks. What u calling the twine arms? The needles? I spent a 1/2hr this morning just getting the needles to come in and JUST over the rods that hole the Bill hooks. I have timed it before It took a LONG while. Im trying to get hold of a guy that lives round 20 miles away whos a supposed bailer man to come here to see why it dosent tie. ITS A WIRE BAILER, by the way. All of them were that were square, down here in Okieland cause nobody had barns to put their hay in.
I sent off, and got off E Bay an op manual for it. I already got one, but couldn't find it. It was HARD for me to understand how to time it around 5yrs ago. I Find it near impossible to understand how to do it now. I know you just got to keep reading it and looking at the bailer, and sooner or later it tends to sink in, or at least it did.. I have 2 more chains to mount after this one.
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  #25  
Old 06/20/13, 05:09 PM
 
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I can get at this early at the morning, or late at night cause of the sun.
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  #26  
Old 06/20/13, 05:51 PM
 
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Bill, you have to remove the full link, both pins, with the chain breaker, then remove the rest of the link and insert the repair link. The 2 pieces (repair link and regular chain link) won't interchange, holes are a different size (this is why you are having problems getting the pin in). If you need a 1/2 link to make the right length chain you use a repair link and a 1/2 link. Some repair links have a groove in the "pins", some have cotter pins and holes in the "pins"....James
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  #27  
Old 06/20/13, 06:43 PM
 
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Ive seen both. These have the slide on/clip on side piece to the groove on both rod ends. OK, ill remove the other pin.
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  #28  
Old 06/20/13, 07:10 PM
 
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............This thread reminded me of that song by Urethra Franklin called.........."Chain.....Chain.....Chain , Chain of Fools.." You missin' a link , ....... , lol , fordy
deaconjim likes this.

Last edited by fordy; 06/20/13 at 10:04 PM. Reason: I'm , the Missing link !
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  #29  
Old 06/20/13, 08:08 PM
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Use the breaker on both pins and pull that side off. If the pins won't come out the rest of the way you can put the breaker back on the inside link and it will push the pin farther, then if you still can't pop it out use needlenose pliers or a screwdriver on the back side.
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  #30  
Old 06/20/13, 08:46 PM
 
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Did you find the repair link in the old chain? Did it have a 1/2 link?

....James
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  #31  
Old 06/20/13, 09:49 PM
 
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I cut the old chains off of it 5 months ago. They laid around here for months, and I had a scrap drive this spring and they went for the ride.
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