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03/24/13, 09:40 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plowjockey
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One of the TSC Honda clones I have is aluminum bore. And I would venture to say that most B&S are not cast iron bore...the Vanguards are, but just about everything below them is Aluminum...btw, Vanguards are Japanese engines.
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03/24/13, 09:45 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmboyBill
I say, like everybody else. My TB Tuffy Tiller went to heck this year. I replaced the 3.5 engine Wisc on it with a Greyhound 2yrs ago. Worked fine. The instructions didnt say anything about changeing the oil at the outset, BUT did say to run it at idle for a hour or 2 to break it in. I ran it all day on idle while doing other stuff.
This year, after running Quik Trip Gas through it for 2 yrs failed to start. I had to buy a new carb. It started on the second pull. Carb was $22. I now buy gas with NO additives. E-10 I think its called here. The new engine was around twice the hp. at 6.5
Neighbor gave me a horse TB with shot engine. Ive pulled the engine, and am waiting on the money to buy another new preditor engione for it. Ill like it alot better than the Tuffy, as it has a reverse. AND I can raise/lower/turn the handles L or R.
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Can't be E-10, that's 10% ethanol fuel.
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03/24/13, 10:04 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
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So is this fairly easy to do? I am not much of a mechanic, but i can change the oil. I am thinking that i don't even want them to look at the old engine and pay the labor. Just order the new engine and put it in.
for the price the larger one seems like a much better deal. $20 for almost three times the engine?
It is a big tiller. thanks for the replys.
randy
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03/24/13, 10:06 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: West Central Arkansas
Posts: 3,611
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Have it looked at by t a certified small engine mechanic. I blew the engine on my 27 ton log splitter. $550 to have a new engine put on it. much cheaper to have that done than to buy a new one. I would not have know what to decide if I had not taken it to the shop. Just my .02
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03/24/13, 11:37 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy in central missouri
So is this fairly easy to do? I am not much of a mechanic, but i can change the oil. I am thinking that i don't even want them to look at the old engine and pay the labor. Just order the new engine and put it in.
for the price the larger one seems like a much better deal. $20 for almost three times the engine?
It is a big tiller. thanks for the replys.
randy
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You will need 3 times the engine nowadays...they keep making them smaller but the HP ratings increase!
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03/25/13, 08:32 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: W. Oregon
Posts: 8,754
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You can pull the shroud off and pull the head to make sure the rod is the problem. Probably is but it could be valve train issues so you have no compression. If you change engines, make sure it is the replacement engine for the one you have, it needs to have the same mounting dimensions so the clearances are the same, same crank size so the pullys interchange. Does it have reverse? Make sure it has the same mounts for that. Like I said before, get the real Honda engine, the industrial model, better bearings, piston, sleeve and rod....James
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03/25/13, 09:12 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,310
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About that reverse jwal, I had been thinking of just switching the engine from the Tuffy with no reverse to the Horse which does. Wondered if they would match up, as the horse has mounting bolts for the base ANDS for the reverse. Sure enough, it does have 4 bolts holes on bottom and side, and they both mount up to the base and the reverse.
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03/25/13, 09:23 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Page County, VA
Posts: 35
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New Tiller
We went to Lowes and saw the price of tillers. My husband and I were like "nooo way" since we paid 200$ for our last rototiller 15years ago.
We went on CL and we found a garage sale that had a "broken" tiller for 150$. It wasn't broken there was just grass and red clay clumped on it.
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03/25/13, 09:26 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwal10
You can pull the shroud off and pull the head to make sure the rod is the problem. Probably is but it could be valve train issues so you have no compression. If you change engines, make sure it is the replacement engine for the one you have, it needs to have the same mounting dimensions so the clearances are the same, same crank size so the pullys interchange. Does it have reverse? Make sure it has the same mounts for that. Like I said before, get the real Honda engine, the industrial model, better bearings, piston, sleeve and rod....James
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Honda, as in GX, not a GC.
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03/25/13, 03:55 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: W. Oregon
Posts: 8,754
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My brother still has the Horse we bought in 1976. It had the Tecumseh engine, never liked it. 5 years ago it got the new Honda, still does a 4 acre market garden every year. We had a lot of fertilizer tenders on the farm and we changed them all to Hondas from the old Wisconsin engines, so much easier to start. The old Wisconsins had points ignition with coils, so much upkeep....James
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03/25/13, 07:43 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,310
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What is a Fert Tender
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03/25/13, 10:27 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: W. Oregon
Posts: 8,754
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We bought all our fertilizer in bulk, dry was hauled in a bin that tapered to the bottom and had an auger with a spout and drop tube to fill the planter or drill. We also used them for the seed. The engine drove a hyd motor to run the auger. Liquid fert was usually hauled in a 1000 gallon tank, called a nurse tank, it had a pump to transfer the liquid fertilizer. We called both tenders. Truck and trailer, refered to as the tender....James
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03/25/13, 11:46 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
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Looking at this engine
http://www.harborfreight.com/horizon...7hp-69730.html
Looking at this engine. its in stock. $119 with 6 month warranty. an extra $20 gets a extra 2 years on the warranty. about 80 cheaper than any other engine i have found.
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02/11/14, 09:22 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: missouri
Posts: 362
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engine from harbor freight working great
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02/11/14, 10:29 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 5,373
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Thanks for updating us Randy! Glad to hear it, looks like you made a wise choice.
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Society has gotten to the point where everybody has a right, but nobody has a responsibility.
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02/11/14, 12:39 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry Chickpea
Harbor Freight engine $100 to $150 - get the two year warranty if you are doing rough use.
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That's what I did. I love it. put oil and gasoline in it and pulled once to start.
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02/11/14, 12:41 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Micheal
My first thought would be to contact Troy-built and see what they can or would offer or suggest - can't never tell till you ask!
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They will want more than a new tiller costs at the local store.
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02/11/14, 02:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: WV
Posts: 3,268
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with all the input I would try to put the new motor on
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02/11/14, 04:43 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Alaska
Posts: 2,675
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davel745
with all the input I would try to put the new motor on
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Pull the cover on the belt and start spraying PB Blaster (or similar) on the end of the crankshaft daily. They can freeze up over time. You may need a puller anyway. Be sure to get one that will go completely over the pulley. Do not pull on the belt surfaces.
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02/11/14, 04:49 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: New York bordering Ontario
Posts: 4,785
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That's when a Troy Built was a Troy Built. Put a new engine in it.
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-Northern NYS
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