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  #21  
Old 10/27/12, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MushCreek View Post
In the Deep South, you're lucky to get half that life with shingles. The hot sun really tears 'em up. We're going metal- it matches the local places here in SC, and with a little luck, I'll never have to go up on the roof again!
Agreed. As I said, metal is better than shingles, by a long shot.
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  #22  
Old 10/27/12, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by pgosnell View Post
That home on the front page is your house? With the little girl in fron? How many people live there? How many s/f? I love it! 7g's...u cant beat that! So, is it a block roof? Poured concreate?
Aye, that is Hope, our daughter, dancing on the granite slab sidewalk in front of our cottage.

Metal / Shingle, other Roof? - Homesteading Questions

Our cottage is 252 sq-ft with a loft in the front for the kids and an attic in the back above our bedroom and bathroom. It has a full bath with tub and shower, kitchen, front dining room and a masonry wood stove in the middle. We use about 0.75 cord of wood a year to heat it. It will float in the 40's F without any additional heat due to the 100,000 lbs of thermal mass inside the insulation envelope (R20 on the E, W and S walls, R40 on the north wall, R7 on the roof).

The roof is a barrel vault of ferro-cement 1.5" thick with no interior Eventually I will insulate the roof more but amazingly even with that little insulation it does great. Probably because it is a combination of thermal mass, conduction insulation and reflection insulation plus a billboard tarp (not show in the photo as it went on later.)

We used a combination of poured and block concrete plus bricks and stone. We had a readymix truck deliver the concrete for the pad and the back (upmountain) kneewall. We then laid block, core filling with concrete and steel. We hand mixed with the little mixer shown here. The roof is about 1.5 cubic-yards. A lot of buckets of concrete carried up the ladder!

Mixer | Sugar Mountain Farm

We build the cottage in 2005 and love it. It is far better than our old drafty farmhouse which still exists down the hill but is now used for farm stuff. There are five of us. We have few possessions. Just the important stuff. Might not work for other families but it does for us. We spend most of our time outdoors in the wild, farming, etc. Indoors is a quiet space, dining, cooking, reading, etc.

Cheers,

-Walter
on Sugar Mountain
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  #23  
Old 10/27/12, 05:27 PM
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Okay, super! Looks like I should go with shingles!!!! Ha. No I was wanting metal. So u all just helped my decision along. However, my house is being moved in the next two weeks. I'm certain I need to go ahead and install it. However! Every time I use the only "Metal Roof Calculators" I get crazy numbers. Like $7000!!! I know they isn't right. I've installed them before my best friend is a contractor and wouldn't charge me a penny to help me. So I am looking at $zero labor cost. Now, with that in mind....Sparkie, please reply if u don't mind...what can I expect the material cost to be? I'm not talking about the highest end stuff....just a basic "barn red" metal roof. I'm thinking I should be able to get it all for around $1500....am I crazy? I'm gonna have my friend cost it for me next week. Very impressed with all the responses...homesteaders are wonderful people...and I'm bout to be one!!!hahha
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  #24  
Old 10/27/12, 07:20 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: NW Georgia
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Sounds like you've decided on metal already, which is good. What Joseph said above about lathing/stripping over the old roof. You might also add a radiant barrier while you are at it, and it will save you signifantly on summer cooling bills. It'll probably increase your winter heating bills though...can't have it both ways. Here's a youtube on the topic:

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  #25  
Old 10/27/12, 07:45 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgosnell View Post
Okay, super! Looks like I should go with shingles!!!! Ha. No I was wanting metal. So u all just helped my decision along. However, my house is being moved in the next two weeks. I'm certain I need to go ahead and install it. However! Every time I use the only "Metal Roof Calculators" I get crazy numbers. Like $7000!!! I know they isn't right. I've installed them before my best friend is a contractor and wouldn't charge me a penny to help me. So I am looking at $zero labor cost. Now, with that in mind....Sparkie, please reply if u don't mind...what can I expect the material cost to be? I'm not talking about the highest end stuff....just a basic "barn red" metal roof. I'm thinking I should be able to get it all for around $1500....am I crazy? I'm gonna have my friend cost it for me next week. Very impressed with all the responses...homesteaders are wonderful people...and I'm bout to be one!!!hahha
We paid right at $2100 for the metal and screws. I don't know the gauge metal, will have to ask my dh, but I know it wasn't the cheapie thin stuff. It has a 40 yr guarantee. We ordered it from the farmer's co-op but found out later that we could've saved a couple hundred dollars by ordering from another place.

We got a sort of cream color. I wanted a light colored roof because it gets so awfully hot at times here and the sun just beats down on the roof. Hoping it helps the house stay cooler, we'll see next summer.
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  #26  
Old 10/27/12, 08:14 PM
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Steel roofs are excellent. Would go with that for a conventionally laid roof. It's worth it.
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  #27  
Old 10/27/12, 11:10 PM
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Our house was built in 1930 & it has a metal roof. I believe it is the original roof on it yet. We added on & put metal on our addition. I love the metal roof. We got the old roof painted the year we added on & will paint it every few years to keep it up. Otherwise, no problems with it at all. Love to hear the rain on a metal roof. Our addition was 16'x24' & the metal for the roof was around $700. This was in 2009.
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  #28  
Old 10/27/12, 11:31 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Indiana, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgosnell View Post
Okay, super! Looks like I should go with shingles!!!! Ha. No I was wanting metal. So u all just helped my decision along. However, my house is being moved in the next two weeks. I'm certain I need to go ahead and install it. However! Every time I use the only "Metal Roof Calculators" I get crazy numbers. Like $7000!!! I know they isn't right. I've installed them before my best friend is a contractor and wouldn't charge me a penny to help me. So I am looking at $zero labor cost. Now, with that in mind....Sparkie, please reply if u don't mind...what can I expect the material cost to be? I'm not talking about the highest end stuff....just a basic "barn red" metal roof. I'm thinking I should be able to get it all for around $1500....am I crazy? I'm gonna have my friend cost it for me next week. Very impressed with all the responses...homesteaders are wonderful people...and I'm bout to be one!!!hahha
Just get your tape measure and calculator..

Menards, has premium metal roofing for $1.09 square ft ($109 per square).

Measure and price screws, trims, seals, etc.
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  #29  
Old 10/28/12, 12:27 AM
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Location: Oregon
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I haven 't read all the replies. We recently reroofed two buildings, including a mobile home, with this. We live in the rainy NW. We'll be using it for all future applications. You can apply it over existing roofs, any type, and it didn't require the stringers used with typical fiberglass and metal panels. It will definitely outlast metal roofing and shingles.
Ondura Corrugated Roofing - Residential Roofing - Commercial Roofing - Agricultural Roofing - Re-Roofing - OFIC North America Inc.

It was 19.95 per 4X6 sheet at Lowes, but we ordered it for $17 a sheet through our local hardware store, who gets their stuff through "Do it Best"
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  #30  
Old 10/28/12, 05:53 AM
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Location: Missouri
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On the color source, we chose a sand/almond color and live under a pecan tree on the south side and an oak tree on the north.....wish wife would have chosen a darker color.

Pressure wash it and it will look good as new. Remember to check your screws (once a year here) and re-torque em down. You will get opinions on screw placement (valley or ridge). We went valley, and tripled up the screws along the perimeter.

The best drill we had to set the screws was one of those battery with adjustable torque control. Do a few practice runs on the ground, get the setting right and away you go.

As mentioned, tape measure and then find prices. We bought from a local roller who had about 15 color choices and various designs. For some, standing seam is the best for others they like the v's.

Look around, and if wanted, and they provide, your supplier may have gutter. We got ours rolled at the same time so that it matched and would last as long as the roof.
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  #31  
Old 10/28/12, 06:44 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolrunnin View Post
Just a suggestion but I would think of putting the metal roof above the structure kind of like a shed, mobile homes tend to run on the warm side and this provides shade for the house and protection.
With the shape of your existing roof it will be hard to put metal on it with the valleys so i would do as coolrunnin says and make another frame above your roof and secure the metal to that. It will make it cooler down south in North carolina as the space between each roof will make for a nice heat riser air flow. Put a ridge vent on the top and if you get metal get one piece lengths of else matching them up will be very tricky. Also make sure your frame is square so the metal fits evenly and doesn't end up lower at one end. Here below is a barn i just built and put metal on the roof. If your near any snow you can make your frame a steeper angle to allow the snow to slide off verse sitting on the roof. I do know that you can once in a while get some heavey ice storms which can hurt a roof.

I also know that your modular home roof make not have strong enough framing to screw into and the studs may not line up with the metal ridges which is where you want to place the screws after you give the ridge a slight tap with a hammer so you can then use the proper rubber grommetted screws to hold it down.

see my roof here

Metal / Shingle, other Roof? - Homesteading Questions

Metal / Shingle, other Roof? - Homesteading Questions

You can vary the angles too this way.

that front gabel above your front door will make it hell to apply metal roofing

PS: My house at the top of that picture has a metal roof which has been on since early 1900's and is seemed together at the joints

here is an example Metal / Shingle, other Roof? - Homesteading Questions

Metal / Shingle, other Roof? - Homesteading Questions

Metal / Shingle, other Roof? - Homesteading Questions

Last edited by CentralPaFarm; 10/28/12 at 06:59 AM.
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  #32  
Old 10/28/12, 07:58 AM
In Remembrance
 
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Question: In the applications I've seen lathing strips are placed butt-to-butt. Wouldn't it be better to allow a gap of say 6" between them for better ventilation flow?
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  #33  
Old 10/28/12, 09:05 AM
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Location: Now in Virginia
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My Dad built his roof with heavy duty concrete shingles... they will last forever.
Down side, you had better have the support/trusses built to handle all that extra weight.
Its not a cheap roof either, one of the most spendy.

For metal... it gets loud when it rains, even when insulated. So it depends if you can handle the noise or not and how much rain you get.

At the old farm in Oregon, we had 60 year 3D shingles. Loved those.
You won't find them at Lowes and what not. They have to be ordered from a roofing supply place, or the makers of the shingles.

Here we only have 25 year, normal shingles. Had to reroof this place when we bought it, last Nov., due to holes in the roof.
If I had the money, would of gone with the 60 year 3D shingles.

Remember if you have someone else re roof your house, get many bids... and check out the companies with the BBB, the state and the Attorney Generals Office.
Can tell you the horror stories, friends have gone through.

Good luck!
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  #34  
Old 10/28/12, 01:07 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: wandering feet
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We had a manufactured home we couldn't keep shingles on (windy area). We did some bartering with the construction guy down the road. He had a good reputation and had been in business for 30 years and said with one layer of shingles, he could put the metal roof right over them WITH a layer of felt paper between. This also helped deaden the sound a little and provide a little more insulation. Best thing we ever did. Ever!
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  #35  
Old 10/28/12, 02:15 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Tn
Posts: 537
Our metal roof isn't loud at all when it rains. On the older less insulated mobile homes they can be, I remember that from when I was a kid.
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  #36  
Old 10/28/12, 03:56 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: NY
Posts: 572
I spent about $1,600 for a metal roof and all of the stuff that goes with it, vents screws and what not. If I did a regular gable roof it would have been about $1,100.

I like metal, and I would have done it on my home but I have way to many valleys and changes in my homes roof, It could be done but it would have been a project so I used a very nice Shingle.

I had roofed my SHed with Shingles to match my house but it would leak because there was not much of a pitch to the roof so I Got some metal and went right over the Shingles, No more leaks and it isn't that loud when it rains.

Ken as far as you question goes, the metal it self has ridges so air can floor between th wood strips, if I am reading your question right.

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