Need to know the basics of electric fencing

Ya so so true and a lot of fencers are for miles and miles of wire.
4 miles, 6 miles, 10 miles, etc. So running a distance of 200 feet or even much further with the hot wire out to the fence wire is not going to effect the electric fencer line out put at all. Underground, above ground, on posts with insulators, anyway to get the hot wire to the fence is just fine.

Ok I'm still having trouble with what gets hooked up where. My system will be a single hot wire around the top of a 4ft field fence about 150ft from power source. The barn forms part of the line so the hot wire will not form a complete circuit. Please correct me if im wrong.

I run a strand of wire from one end of the fence to the other (does it need to form a circuit? i can make it 2 lines that double back on each other if need be)

I connect the ground rods near the charger (150 ft away from fence, is this a problem?)

I bury an insulated line to the fence and just clip it on (anywhere along the strand is fine?

The fence doesn't have to connect back to itself.

You could run a single wire in a straight line for miles, and it would all still be charged.

The ground rods can be near the charger as long as you use enough, and they are deep enough to be in moist soil all the time

The power can connect anywhere along the fence.

Running your wire underground will be expensive if you use the proper type of wire.

If possible, you could just extend the "fence" above ground from the charger to the enclosure and save money AND work

You could use 2-3 tall posts and run it high enough to be out of the way of vehicles

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

The AC chargers are best... but you need a good one with a higher "joule" rating... not one of those $60 "horse" things... expect it to run $150 to $250. Believe me... if you get a less expensive charger it will not suitably power the fence with a bit of wet grass or leaves against it. My first charger was about $45....my second, shortly thereafter was about $120...about a year latter, I spent the money I should have in the first place and wish I hadn't wasted the money on the other two.

"Amen" to the good deep ground rods mentioned above.

You can run the wire to the fence from your barn or other structure using insulators on poles, or tree to tree or whatever, just keep it plenty high so you don't get "hung" when you are on the tractor. You can even run it underground between the barn and the end of the fence, but it would cost a bunch and require special wire or tubing, and be prone to failure. If you have hi-tensile wire, it can be run 100 feet or so it the insulator (15-20' high on the side of the barn) to the tree or pole is well anchored. If you are afraid of injuring the tree, a strap can be placed around the tree at the needed height and an insulator hooked to it, provided the tree is not directly in line between the barn and fence so you get (sort of) a corner.

Buy a charger as stated above with a high output rating, research ParMak fence chargers and buy their best one. Then buy a stafix fence compass. Use the 12 1/2 gauge high tensile wire. From Kencove order their free booklet on how to erect a high tensile fence. Put in proper corner posts and brace them accordingly. When the fence is installed turn it on and go to the longest distance from the charger and use the Stafix fence compass and measure the voltage. You should have not less than around 4500 volts and more like 9500 volts. This will hold goats. Learn how to train the goats to the fence. Once the goats get the shock impacted on their brain they will stay contained. I have roughly 120,000 feet of wire run on 207 acres and the fence will contain the animals and will defer trespassers. Electric fences that do not work have improper installation and low output chargers. Done right they work!
PS the fence I have was installed in 1994 and remains in good condition!

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Agmantoo
If they can do it,
you know you can!