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  #21  
Old 04/21/11, 04:19 PM
GREENCOUNTYPETE's Avatar
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CabinFever , interesting idea , lower the rakers with every sharpening, i find it nessacary to only lower them every 10 or so sharpenings with a round file i am taking so little off with 2-3 strokes mostly just pushing the bur back and off

i have a seperate gauge and file i use for the rakers mostly i just count the strokes on the rakers the gauge is ok and somtimes i like to be deeper than the gauge allows.
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  #22  
Old 04/21/11, 04:37 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
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where are you at in alabama? we're in north central alabama in Blount County.
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  #23  
Old 04/21/11, 08:50 PM
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More power to those wanting to use a file for all sharpening. I've used a file both with and without a jig. My suggestion, IF you want to use a file, is to remove chain from saw and mount it in a good bench vise, then sharpen it. Any slop in bar groove will not let you accurately sharpen on the bar.

I've sharpened with files. I've sharpened with a battery powered dremel tool that tended to burn the cutter edge. And I finally got an aluminum Oregon bench sharpener like the HF sharpener only its metal so more rigid and bit more available adjustments. Got it cheap enough at the time on a store closeout, this was before the cheap plastic China made sharpeners were available. I much prefer it over file or dremel tool. And you DON'T grind every cutter to match the shortest one. If cutters are ground correctly they DONT have to be the same length to be effective. Thats just the high school kid running the bench sharpener at the hardware store cause his boss told him to do it that way to sell more chain. Plus its much faster for the kid to just set to shortest cutter and grind all to same length. No brains required. Now at home with your own bench sharpener, you just barely touch the cutter to the wheel, just enough to renew the edge. If you are taking off bunch metal you are doing it wrong.

I've seen the HF and the plastic is less stable than the aluminum, but from hearing others reporting back after buying one, it works, just maybe not as pleasant to use as higher priced version.

So sure if you cut lot wood year round so plenty of sharpening practice and like files, great. But for anybody just cutting own firewood once a year and dont have lot patience with files, I'd recommend bench sharpener and several chains. Even a moron can get good sharp chain with little effort. And you can keep file for touch up out in field though I'd rather just swap out chains. I havent bought a chain file in years.
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  #24  
Old 04/21/11, 10:53 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: AL
Posts: 122
Here is what I wound up ordering :

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdet...151&catID=9757

I've been cutting lots of wood ( been here a year now and winter was chilly! ) and the woodstove was a blessing. Working on stocking up more wood...

I have used the hand files and gotten decent results, but not like the way after the grinder. 'Like the golfball idea.

Thanks all
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  #25  
Old 04/22/11, 08:55 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: SW Michigan
Posts: 252
I see a new gadget being advertised on TV that clamps onto the end of the chain bar, and sharpens the chain as it runs for a minute or so. Looks interesting to me- any feedback ??
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  #26  
Old 04/22/11, 09:16 AM
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Location: East Tenn.
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I'm in with GREENCOUNTYPETE on everything he said. And I'm 10,00 richer every tine I take 15 minutes and do it myself
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  #27  
Old 04/22/11, 09:27 AM
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 99
Here is my chain grinder.

Chain sharpener - Homesteading Questions
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  #28  
Old 04/22/11, 10:15 AM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 870
I use the chop saw type grinder.
I barely touch the tooth and the chains work great. I think allot of people are hitting the tooth way to much thats why they complain that grinders eat chains.
I also sharpen bandsaw mill blades if anyone has any. I've sharpened since 92.
jim
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