New vs. used chevy pick up?

I currently have a '69 Chevy and a '68 1/2 trucks...they came with "ton" rears and you can't kill them. I would say NO !!! to an automatic transmission. They aren't made for hauling loads in my opinion. I have hauled many full loads of wood to many bales of hay going over hills and mountains in our area...a straight 6...I have hauled a 2 horses trailer with the horses...3 speed on the floor and never had a problem. Always starts even with the below zero weather we have and it just kicks right over on these cold mornings. I would not even give them up for a new Hummer. They are easy to fix and parts are cheap.. The old girls have never let me down yet. I would look for an oldie but goodie and I don't think you will be disappointed. Good Luck !!

I've never had a problem with the dual wheels getting gucked up, but I suppose it could happen.

As for grain trucks...we have three. Tags are over $300 per year (for farm use) vs. $78 for a pickup. Insurance is also about $300 per year on each of them. It is also major duty to get them ready to pass inspection every year.

We hate them. We use them a month out of the year, then they sit there unless there is an odd job that needs doing. Waste of money and waste of shed space. We are considering going to grain wagons instead.

One thing to consider is the height of the bed. The floor of the grain trucks is at eye-ball level to me. I have a hard time getting a bucket up there, let alone anything else. We do load them with junk and stuff using the loader (JD7400 tractor), but if you have a bad back and are thinking you can use them to haul stuff you will load...think again! In fact, getting out of them can be a bit of a spine jarring experience as well

Jena

Jena,

I figured the grain or dump trk for pulling heavy loads which would amount to about 10 times a yr at most at this point.

We don't have inspections here in WI. A neighbor has tried to sell me his grain trk off and on. It cost something like $10/month for insurance and you liscense on a quarterly basis up here which I believe is $45.

I also got to thinking if I do get draft(s) I could easily pay one of the two local livestock haulers to haul them. Unless, I hire out for carriage rides or sleigh rides I likely won't have to haul them too often. It'd be cheaper than owning a stock trailer because goats I can put in the back of a pick up w/ a topper on it. one less piece of equipment to maintain! Once I get the round bales of hay moved here to the farm all I would need is my tractor to set them out for the goats to feed on.

I refuse to buy a long bed extended cab or crew cab.

........THANK GOD!! I have 3 yrs before I completely make up my mind what size I'm gonna buy!!!

I'm curious. How many run synthetic oil in their transmissions and engines to extend life of them?

Katie

Depending on the year of your truck, you may be already running synthetics. My 1996 Ford has a synthetic in the gear box (an boy is it expensive $11.00 a quart!!). If you change your engine oil frequently, I really don’t think you need to worry about using synthetics in your engine. If you tow or use the vehicle for stop and go runs, change your oil at 3 or 4K. If you are not already, learn to do it yourself and you can save both time and money. Main problem with the synthetics is the expense and the extended change interval does not seen to justify the cost.

If you are into using additives (snake oil, motor honey and the like) I have had very good luck with Lucas oil products. They were recommended to me a few years ago by a tractor mechanic and I am hooked. I use both the oil additive and fuel additive in everything I own from the lawnmowers to the tractors. Cant say enough good things about Lucas products. While on the subject, if you need a good industrial spray lube/ rust remover, pick up a can of fluid film. Stinks to high hell due to the lanolin content but this stuff works. Good Luck

Unregistered guest,

It may cost more for the synthetic oil but, it will also extend the life of the whatever it is run in.

OK you say you want a truck with good seats so automatically GM wins. Ford seats are cardboard boxes and Dodge seats are planks.
Anyone that recommends a manual transmission hasn't owned a truck newer than 90 with a manual transmission. Forget about manual transmissions altogether.
A 700R4 is also known as a 4L60E 4 speed longitudinal 60 series electric shift. Earlier models didn't shift electronically and failed because of improper TV cable adjustment. They're not the heaviest duty trans, but when they are right they do fine. If you buy a newer GM truck 3/4 ton or heavier you want the 4L80E series transmission. This trans was based on the old design turbo 400 but is electronic shift and has overdrive. This is an extremely strong transmission and was used behind the 6.5L turbo diesels and other gas engines. The newer diesels use the Allison design transmission which is excellent but of course only comes on the new Duramax diesels.
700R4's can be built to last and actually have been used in many high performance street rod applications when built correctly. the days of going to a local transmission builder are long gone.

__________________
"Education is the ability to listen to almost anything without losing your temper or your self confidence"
Robert Frost

Unregistered guest,

It may cost more for the synthetic oil but, it will also extend the life of the whatever it is run in.

Cashcrop,

Sounds like you have already made up your mind concerning synthetics. Why did you bother to post a question at all? If you believe that synthetics will lengthen engine or transmission life, by all means knock yourself out and run them in your truck. If you believe you can cram 4 to 5 people into a standard cab pickup cuz you refuse to buy a long bed extended cab or crew cab, who are we to tell you otherwise? Sounds like you already know all the answers and you are just posting for us to confirm them for you. Good Luck.

We are GM folks...our first 3/4 T 4WD was a '65 Chevy. It was all we could afford ($1,000), kept it almost 20 yrs. but never could find the time to really fix it up...just did maintenance. We sold it for $1500. It hauled more than you could imagine. We had been checking the paper on a reg. basis and just happened to see an ad for '95 Chevy 3/4 T 4WD Xcab long bed for $6000. We really did not think it would be any good BUT it was a company truck, well maintained and looked pretty good. We did not need the xtend cab and it was automatic (my husband likes a stick) but too good a deal. We gave the guy $5,000 cash. We have had it two years and it is just great!!! We have had many 1/2 T 2WD Chevy trucks...they are great for commuting but not in snow or for hauling heavy duty. Our plan is another "new" truck about the time I retire in about 5 years. My retirement gift to myself is a trip to Lehmans for that oak hoosier and my husband agrees!!!

To whoever posted that I suggested I didn't want an extended cab or that I needed a 8ft box I was wondering where you got the idea.

To the lady unregistered guest....Thanks for the comments on the trucks! Hope that hoosier cupboard will soon be yours, too!!

In case, I didn't comment before about what I thought I might buy in 3 -4 yrs. I figure an extended cab short box 4x4 2500HD. I don't know if I'll go with the Duramax. A lot will depend upon what's available at that time. Also, I anticipate most of the heavy work to be done during the summer but, some in late spring & early fall.

cashcrop

I was going to also say that sometimes you aren't just buying for yourself, you're buying also for a spouse, who might have to drive it if you can't, or when his/her vehicle is in a shop, and he/she may not be able to drive a stick (waving my hand in the air wildly here :-)). And as a practical matter, if you break a leg, you probably won't be able to drive a stick for a while, so automatics win out there.

My Father could drive sticks so smoothly that you could swear you were in an automatic, but he much preferred automatics because they were easier to drive, and of course you don't need two hands to drive them, so you can even drive them safely one-handed unless your arm is totally immobilized.

I figured out where you got the idea I didn't want an extended cab! It was the way I worded the sentence in one of my posts.

I just don't want a long box if I'm going to have a crew cab or extended cab. Plus, you have a larger GVWR when you have a short box rather than a long box. I did pull a 20ft trailer loaded w/ heavy lawn equipment w/ the 91 1/2tn sb 2x4 chevy till I had 207,000 on the odometer. I had to rebuild tranny after the odometer had 248,000 on it. I bought it w/ 60,000 on the odometer.