roof support posts

I would rather have this new roof to have a much steeper pitch, then our house roof.

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I've seen footers for posts just dug and then topped with 5gal. buckets with the bottom cut out for forms at the top. You can pour the footers and then concrete screw post anchors to the footers or use those anchors. I'd drop down 1' and can you drop to 7' at the posts to give yourself more pitch? Your house is all steel frame built on a slab with foundation and footers, correct?

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I think the idea of a steeper pitch is fine, it is the 2 foot drop from the old roof to the new roof that will cause a problem if snow slides. If you have the new roof start pretty much right at the eave/fascia, and it had a steeper pitch, then any snow sliding off the old roof will accelerate and keep on sliding right off.

I also agree that whatever foundation system you use, you need to be concerned about wind gusts lifting it up as well.

Our front door threshold is at grade. So a deck would require a step up.

I stand 5'10" when I walk out I do not wish to duck. So I was thinking of putting the top of the post [bottom of the horizontal beam at the eave] at 6 foot high. So I can pass under it without ducking.

Assuming it is a 4x4 laid horizontal on top of the posts, and then rafters laid on that, the actual roof would be at about 7'.



Our house is a steel warehouse 40'x60', 14' peak, 12' eaves. It sits on a foundation that is 8" wide and 8' deep. No slab.

I sprayed urethane foam 2" thick on the interior walls and ceiling, then hung 9" fiberglass batting and wood paneling.

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Instead of a 4x4 I would use a double 2x6 or 2x8's for a header. You can use rafter hangers and attach the rafters to the header to gain a little more pitch. This will eliminate any overhang and any ventilation from soffits if you wanted them. Putting the header at 6' is cutting it a little close to your head, I'd want 7' at least for walking under. Put the posts higher and notch them for the header using 6x6 posts.

How is your interior floor constructed?

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Wood floor with PEX tubing underneath.

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Beeman, this only works in areas without heavy frost. Here in the mountains of eastern PA. we need 48" in the ground and it needs to be smooth sided. We use Sono-tube, since it provides a smooth round surface that discourages "Frost jacking", which is a condition that slowly lifts jagged concrete out of the ground. It can be seasonal, where the frost will lift the concrete an inch or two every winter, then settle down, or it can be continuous, and actually pull a post out. I have seen old wash poles and chain link fence posts that actually frost jacked out of the ground. If a post pulled clear out of the ground, they always have two issues. First, a rough hole with jagged edged concrete, and a taper, where the hole got bigger at the top. It's nothing to see an old post, surrounded by a tapered concrete collar, sticking out of the ground 6-8 inches, in this area. Further north it's now common to wrap the sono-tube in a few layers of poly to give it more slip. If that fails, the cure is to dig down about 6" and bury a 4' square of 1" blueboard around the post. This will keep the post warm enough to not jack.

Makes sense, as I said I never dealt with frost depths like that, hope I never will.

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"Education is the ability to listen to almost anything without losing your temper or your self confidence"
Robert Frost

Codes says that we need 4' deep to get below the frost line.

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The older I get, the more I ask myself why I do? Winter is getting old, and It's soon time to move south, where it isn't a battle every day for months.