60s -70s Ford tractors

**Ross** · #21 02/16/11, 05:49 PM

Ditto on the cold start issue with Fords. You need to plug them in but a sniff of ether won't kill them. But just a sniff.

farmerbrian · #22 02/16/11, 07:21 PM

ok called a few listings today...only gassers around here no diesels.

All of them were 4 speed with high/low range trannys? Thats the 8 speed right?

One of them im not sure about the PTO type. It didnt sound like it had a 2 stage clutch but he said you could shift gears without affecting the PTO. Maybe it has a separate clutch for PTO, I dunno? I will try to check this one out in person this weekend

taylorlambert · #23 02/16/11, 07:42 PM

THats a Live PTO our 4000 at work is like this. Its handy bushhogging or like us running a stationary pump you can turn it on without gettin on the tractor to clutch it and engage it.

michiganfarmer · #24 02/18/11, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plowjockey

I'm still kicking myself for letting a 3400/loader get away at an auction. Ran like new and was built like a tank.

Every tractor that has a loader, needs add-on rear weights to function properly, whether 2WD or 4WD. There is a lot of weight teetering up there and you need something to hold the back down.

I wondered how these old tractors managed to get around just fine, with only 2WD - for over 50 years.

A utility tractor without a loader, loses about 50% of it's usefulness, IMO,

I vote for #1. Get wheel weights for it.

and fill the rear tires with liquid

michiganfarmer · #25 02/18/11, 08:17 AM

Interesting thread. IM kinda looking for a 70-100 horse diesel with at least 18.4-38s and a strong loader. Been looking at 970 case, 1070 case, 3020 JD, 4020 JD, 806 farmall, 966 farmall. JD is almost 40% more money that all the others though.

rancher1913 · #26 02/18/11, 08:57 PM

with your to do list the 3000 would be fine. if you NEED it to run in the winter go with gas--theres been many a time i've needed to feed and the only thing that would run was a gasser. the diesels are better for field work because of the torque but if you really need it in the winter they will let you down. if you need to put weight on the rear of a tractor to get traction you are overloading it and will pay the price sooner or later--neibors broke a tractor in two by overloading it. around here the fords are cheep to rebuild and parts are readily available, but then again I'm parshel to blue.

Old Vet · #27 02/18/11, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michiganfarmer

Interesting thread. IM kinda looking for a 70-100 horse diesel with at least 18.4-38s and a strong loader. Been looking at 970 case, 1070 case, 3020 JD, 4020 JD, 806 farmall, 966 farmall. JD is almost 40% more money that all the others though.

If you can find a 806 International without hydro transmission they are good. I have used a 4020 John Deer and there is not that much difference. I don't know about the case but the one that I did used was good.

**Ross** · #28 02/19/11, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by michiganfarmer

60s -70s Ford tractors - Homesteading Questions

Interesting thread. IM kinda looking for a 70-100 horse diesel with at least 18.4-38s and a strong loader. Been looking at 970 case, 1070 case, 3020 JD, 4020 JD, 806 farmall, 966 farmall. JD is almost 40% more money that all the others though.

Older Cases (and some fairly new ones) had a weak power shift. I'd stay green or red, or maybe a Ford 9700 or the TW's

**fordson major** · #29 02/19/11, 08:32 AM

nother very over looked tractor are the whites, decent HP cummins motor, great trany but very low cost.

Sammy · #30 02/20/11, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by farmerbrian

Hi Guys,
Why would I need to adjust the front end on a tractor?

Thanks!

Brian

Most row crop tractors have a adjustable front end to allow for
different widths of row crops grown in their area.