Moving a shed

Yes, you are overcomplicating it.

Option 1 is the only easy, simple one. You have the tools to do it.

Go slow, plan, think before you act. That keeps you safe.

Take the small one first, smaller & has good skids. It came with skids so - it can be moved.

I'd put a chain on one side of a skid (anyone with a tractor has a 14-20 foot chain laying around, right???) to the hitch of the tractor and back to the other skid.

I'd nail a 4x4 or couple of 2x4s between the skids so they don't pull together. Bracing. Perhaps your shed has that already, but doesn't hurt to do it more. Don't pull from the middle of this bracing - you need the chain (cable, strong towrope, etc) anchored to each skid. Does not work to tie to the bracing in the middle, just pulls it apart...

The N series tractors were a little tippy. They had a bad design on the hitch setup, allowing a person to pull from higher up.

To keep it safe, attach the chain low on the tractor. You want to be pulling from well below the rear axle. I don't know if you have a fixed drawbar or a bar on the 3pt, but keep those things in the _low_ position and then the tractor will spin it's wheels if it can't tow it. If you pull from high up, the tractor could flip over backwards instead. It is basic geometry, but just keep the pull-point low and all will be well.

The 2nd shed likely will need a couple 2x4s or 2x6s added to the bad skid to beef things up, whatever scrap wood you have around (homesteaders always have a few sticks of scrap wood around right?).

Should work the same way. That's a real short distance, no need to involve lifting these with a trailer or truck.

Takes longer to read this message than to actually do one.

--->Paul

I've done this using 2"x8' steel posts from chain link fencing. Wife was able to push the shed by hand while I arranged the rollers. It was an 7'x10' shed that wieghed over 700 pounds.

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If the grass looks greener it is probably over the septic tank. - troy n sarah tx

Our existance here is soley for the expoitation of CMG

This summer I moved a 10 x 16 shed with my truck. I drilled a 1" hole through the center skids and beat a solid steel pipe through them then wrapped a tow strap around it and hooked the looped end over my trailer hitch and drug it about 150".

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If the grass is greener on the other side of the fence, water your grass

a similar discussion on a tractor site suggested. attaching the chain to the front of the tractor. running it under and back to what was being pulled. this way it would have to pull all the tractor weight to to lift it. not sure with an n if this is possible. be safe.

when i had my 10 by 14 shed delivered to my house the man who delivered it put 4 inch pvc pipe under the shed and rolled it by hand to the place where i needed it. he really made it look easy by just moving it so far and then replacing the pipes as he went along. give it a shot what do you have to lose.

this is exactly how we moved our shed. pushed it by hand, pulled it with truck, used come-along to drag it sideways into final position. Almost as easy as moving a small trailer around the yard

That is a great idea too. Tho, I believe an N tractor has a terribly fast reverse gear, which might not work the best for this application. Good general idea tho in many cases.

It's funny how we all come with different life expriences. I put in 2000 hours of tractor time a year, so for me just hop on the tractor & go - I'm so used to it, don't have to think about it. It's almost hard to explain how to do it, when it just comes natural after all these years. Something else that I've never done, well then a simple & safe way would need to be explained to me.... What goes around comes around.

--->Paul

I have an old boat trailer axle and tongue I used to move sheep sheds. The axle is about 8" off the ground. 9' feet between tires. Jack up one end of the shed and back axle under, strap to tounge and axle and off you go. Pretty cheap to build out of a scrap axle, a couple iron straps and a 4"x4"....James