Matching plywood to sheetrock

fishhead · #21 11/20/10, 08:54 PM

In my case I want to stiffen the wall so the top can't move sideways. Originally the boxcar siding did that job but I can't depend on it anymore because of the rot.

Dead Rabbit · #22 11/20/10, 09:00 PM

FishHead i like your signature. im a personal fan of Montgomery Burns

Matching plywood to sheetrock - Homesteading Questions

Windy in Kansas · #23 11/21/10, 12:06 AM

There used to be a U shaped metal piece for diagonal bracing that had the edges going into saw kerfs. Simpson's makes a replacement for the U shaped one that is an L.

http://www.connectorsonly.com/rcwabr1.html

It wouldn't provide the compression strength like a U one would.

MushCreek · #24 11/21/10, 07:27 AM

I think the joints between the plywood and drywall will crack. Plywood will expand and contract more due to changes in humidity.

fishhead · #25 11/21/10, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MushCreek

I think the joints between the plywood and drywall will crack. Plywood will expand and contract more due to changes in humidity.

Good point. I hadn't thought of that.

I'll see what they've got as far as metal bracing and if I can't find any or don't like what I see I'll just cut in some 1"x4" bracing.

#26 11/21/10, 10:09 AM

Stainless steel cable and a cable tightener. drill small holes in the wall studs at the appropriate angle, thread cable through, tighten with the tightener, and close it up. With sheetrock.

truckdriverx72 · #27 11/21/10, 11:23 AM

Couldn't you get some strapping, like is used for mobile home tie-downs, and screw it to your studding diagonally(sp)?

fishhead · #28 11/21/10, 01:30 PM

I've got the sheetrock off. I learned a trick for removing it in strips. I just used a roofing hatchet/hammer to cut it into strips that would fit in some old feed bags.

Here's what the studs look like. Of course they aren't on 16" centers. The guy that built the house must have been named Dats Gootenough. I don't think he owned a tape measure or level.

There was no vapor barrier except the backing on the insulation. That's the cause of the dry rot in the boxcar siding. The Balsam Wool insulation says it's a vapor barrier but that only works if it's stabled to the face of the stud which this wasn't.

I'm not sure why the extra stubs were put in unless it was to match the siding. There's even a 2x4 scabbed onto a stud to the right of the window that doesn't touch the top or the bottom plate.

Matching plywood to sheetrock - Homesteading Questions

Here's a closer look at the stubs. The one on the left looks like it split into 2 pieces.

Matching plywood to sheetrock - Homesteading Questions

fishhead · #29 11/21/10, 01:55 PM

Are there any tricks to insulating unparallel (sp) spaces like these?

I'm planning using fiberglass batting.

Dead Rabbit · #30 11/21/10, 02:54 PM

you just rip the insulation to fit the distance between studs. the insulation is not required to be stapled into the studs, just fitted btwn them. facing isnt even required and in some instances like in exposed walls like unfinished basements/or garages you cant have paper facing exposed. so you have to use unfaced. which is the best route to go if your not sure which way the paper should go. cause its not always supposed to go to heated side. cases of fire hazard dictates this.

looks like there is a top 2x4 plate missing at top of wall. unless the ceiling is firred down for some reason?? and definitly no corner bracing is there. the strapping im referring to is supposed to be on outside of wall. but i dont know if that is required or not. its an atiquated practice here and no longer practiced. it was done before i got into carpentry.

i doubt the rot on the siding is caused by lack of vapor barrier?? cause the barrier is not used in most instances if ever here. and there is no problem.

fishhead · #31 11/21/10, 03:52 PM

With our temperature extremes moisture turns to ice in the wall and then into water in the spring.

I just started into the second wall and found 2 cavities filled with wood chips. A few more cavities and I'll be done for the day. We've got glare ice on the highways so I won't be going to town for insulation and sheetrock today.

jwal10 · #32 11/21/10, 06:10 PM

How about a full sheet of plywood in the corners and the rest of the wall sheetrock and then a second layer of sheetrock on the full wall. Sheetrock is cheap. I think I would add studs at breaks in drywall and mark where the rest are....James

fishhead · #33 11/21/10, 06:40 PM

I've decided against the plywood.

I will have to make sure there are studs at the breaks in sheetrock.