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  #21  
Old 12/16/03, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Joy in Eastern WA
OK, you all have me sold on the 2x6 studs!!! Now, would you use the 2x6 for your interior framing as well?
Only if you need the extra thickness for plumbing, otherwise 2x4 is just fine.
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  #22  
Old 12/16/03, 05:55 PM
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2 x6 interior partishions are needed for walls that have sewage vent stacks installed within them.
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  #23  
Old 12/16/03, 06:47 PM
 
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By all means go with the 2 x 6 exterior walls. The 2x6 studs are a total waste of space on interior walls however. Yes, you'll likely need one 2x6 wall for your stack vent.

One more thing. Personally, I wouldn't use rough cut air dried lumber for framing purposes. If you have access to some that is free or very very cheap, that is about the only way I would use the stuff.
Here is why I have a poor opinion of rough cut lumber. It isn't kiln dried and it isn't planed. A rough cut 2 x 4 that is rough cut & air dried is far weaker than the kiln dried & planed 1 1/2 x 3 1/2" finished 2 x 4. No comparison.

The real clincher on rough cut lumber are the sizes. You may indeed stumble across someone that actually cuts boards straight & true, but its unlikely. Far more common are the 2 x 6's that range in size from 1 1/2 - 2 1/4 x 5 1/4 to 6 1/4.
What you might save on the purchase of rough cut framing lumber.....you'll spend on shiming and frustration.

If you think that I believe rough cut lumber is all junk, nothing could be further from the truth. Items such as paneling for use in board & batten siding are excellent uses for rough cut lumber.
Subfloors are excellent uses of rough cut lumber, especially when the building process will be one of a lengthy duration.

Purchasing your 2 x 6's at one of the places such as Home Depot or Menards will take patience. Plan on several visits. Since they sell these are rock bottom prices, you'll have to troll through lots of 2 x 6's to find good ones. Inspect each board visually. I figure about 1/2 of those have to be rejected because of defects. The most common defects are 1) crooked boards and 2)twisted boards.
If you are meticulous about the quality of your boards, this is the only way to do it.
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  #24  
Old 12/16/03, 07:46 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Colorado
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"OK, you all have me sold on the 2x6 studs!!! Now, would you use the 2x6 for your interior framing as well?"

In most situations (other than what has been mentioned) 2"X4" interior walls are just fine. Our inside walls are 28" for passive solar purposes - but I'm sure you don't want to go there at this point ;-)
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  #25  
Old 12/16/03, 08:29 PM
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Here in Missouri most rough cut lumber is Oak,if you let it dry you can't get a nail in it.So we just use it green.Cost .35 a board foot.

Built all my Buildings including my house with it.

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  #26  
Old 12/16/03, 08:34 PM
r.h. in okla.
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Melissa's husband Cal should be able to answer the question for you. Being a former electrician who has drilled plenty of holes through stud walls I always thought the exterior walls was based on the load that it would be supporting. If it was going to be a 2 story house or a large 1 story with a huge roof overhead then it needed to be 2 X 6 studs. Small 1 story with a small roof would only require 2 X 4 studs. But I'm not a carpenter, I'm just basing my answer on the type of houses I have worked in. (Done electrical work for over 20 years)
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  #27  
Old 12/16/03, 09:40 PM
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One big reason that 2x6 is popular is that it gives you two more inches for insulation. The next county over gives you not options. 2x6 or nothing. They want that space for extra air tight (Mold friendly) spaces.

Check with your building codes. Some allow 2x6, some force it, some dont even have it on the books but allow with a variance.
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