Question about paint sprayers...

Why would you want penetration? You want it to adhere properly. That is dependent on the surface and the quality of paint. Rolling and brushing is usually done on the final coat of drywall but not for penetration but finish. This is drywall we are talking about not wood.

hey, a thread I know something about.

Spraying oil inside will be fine as long as you have a respirator and you said you did so all is well. I have done this many times in fire damaged and heavy smokers houses.

Penetration is a non-issue over previously painted surfaces and the wall paper will soak it up and seal it in.

The only issues you might have with the paper is edges peeling which can be cut back to a non-peeling area, primed with a brush and patched. The other issue is that when you roll the finish coats the roller might loosen the paper but this doesn't happen often after oil primer.

The fumes will get thick. Open windows and doors and get a fan blowing fresh air in. Turn off the central air system if you have one.

As another said rent a sprayer as you will only need it for a day.

have fun

There's no reason NOT to try to remove some of the paper that is obviously loose already. There are some places in the house where someone tried pulling the paper down/off and it's still hanging or bubbled. I can remove that. But for some of it.. it looks like it has been there since the stuff was invented and is like second skin. I have about 15 rooms to deal with so, sadly, I'm looking for a "quick fix" when and where I can catch a break. I'm relieved to know that there is an acceptable way to COVER some of this crap and nice to know the RIGHT way to do the job for the areas I will have to remove the wallpaper. I wish some of you people lived closer to me!

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A closed mouth gathers no foot.

As some have suggested, I'd rather sweat just one time. Sheetrock is pretty inexpensive and you won'thave to worry with peeling paper now, or in the future.

Yeah, but she's doing it alone and sheetrock is HEAVY!!

to do sheet rock she would have to pull off all of the trim around the door and window casings and the base boards and any crown molding. Then the walls become thicker that the casings so strips of wood need to be add to make up the difference. Plus she is rightly concerned about lead paint so removing all that trim will disturb the paint and stir up lead dust. Her idea is far less work and cheaper even if some of the paper peals as she does it or in the future.

I read the title to this thread too quickly, and thought it said "Saint Prayers".

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Nellie, Homeschool mama to 9. http://nellyslittleredschoolhouse.blogspot.com/

"Where are we going?" ~ Pippin

well one other option besides the sheetrock and they do have 1/4" sheetrock is wall liner
paper.

though I would strip one wall just to assess the situation, if who ever did the paper did it correctly it should come off fine and save you trouble down the line.

if it looks to be a nightmare as in they did not prime the wall board or use sizeing (which helps strip paper as much as put it up.) then I would opt for the liner.

you run wall liner opposite of how you run paper. instead of ceiling to floor, its corner to corner top to bottom.

oil base you only need if it is actual wall paper, most "paper" sold in the last 20 years is either vinyl coated or paper backed vinyl. which if that is the case I would use a latex
that has bonding propertys. what ever it is you should use a patching compound on all the seams and any loose stuff I would repaste it with something with good adhesion.

I agree on renting a sprayer rather then buying, and graco never made a cheap sprayer till home depot courted them. so go to a real paint store to rent one and get a professional unit.

to clean a unit of oil base what you do is pull your tip (rac = Reverse-A-Clean) put it in a can or cup something with a little thinner. put a gallon of paint thinner in a 5 gal bucket,
start running the thinner through the pump well spraying in to the bucket continue cycling the thinner through till you no longer have any paint comeing through, it will be milky or tinged the color of the paint but be the consistancy of thinner then I take a clean bucket and a 1/2 gallon of thinner and run that through but spray into the first bucket should run through and be almost clear to clear put the tip back in and spray through in the reverse position. pumps clean and packed with thinner which is the way folks that rent them like to get them back. we charged 25 dollars every time one came back dirty. and with latex you run water through till you have all the thinner out then your latex behind it , when done run water through like I said to do with the thinner for the oil ,to pack it run thinner through till you no longer have water in it but thinner comeing out.

be very carefull with paint sprayers you can loose body parts and even face death if you inject yourself. I know a lot of guys that are missing fingers from pressure injections from the spray rigs they where useing. always inspect the equipment before use.

for lead encapsulation you use a elastromeric coating, though before I bought the house I would have a home inspection done and let the inspector know your concern for lead based paint.

most places anymore require professional abatement prior to the home being sold, wich is expensive.

though if its not rquired and LBP is found on the property I would do the three quote/bid thing and have the asking price adjusted to correct for the situation.