|
9n
I am going to get a 9N tractor on Sunday. The man is asking 800 for it. It is parked under a shed and was running when parked a couple of years back. Do you think that would be too much? It is in good shape, new front tires. I have looked around and it seems like a good buy.
I will get the sediment out of the bowl, smell the carb for laquer build up and drop in a new battery with good cranking amps. Should I spray either in the carb for start up? Maybe not if she turns over well. Thanks for listening I am excited. |
BEFORE YOU GIVE HIM THE CASH- pull the plugs, squirt some oil in the cylinders and see if it turns over and has good compression, see if there's spark, then put the plugs back and give her a sniff of either. If she fires she'll be fine most likely. Personally I'd add some gas and want to see if move before buying.
A 9n is a marginal tractor. $800 isn't bad these days unless the rear tires are shot (that's another $5-800 to replace), or the engine or tranny is shot. Do not think you'll put a front end loader on it, do not think you'll run a haybine or baler with it. A very small bush hog (preferably trailer wheeled and not full 3 pt), a small post hole digger, a 3 pt sickle bar mower or finish mower, hay rakes, very small discs, a single bottom plow, stuff like that you can do. The biggest selling feature is that 3 pt, and it's a marginal, crude 3 pt at that. Think of it as an overgrown lawn tractor and you'll do okay. In truth your best bet might be to "restore" it (paint, decals, cosmetics) and ask $3000.00 for it from a yuppie "ranchette" owner. Then go buy a Ford 600, Case 430/530, JD 40/50/420/520 or later model, Minnie Mo Jet Star 4, Oliver 550, something along those lines- 35-45 hp with real hydraulics (newer anyway) and a real 3 pt and live PTO if you can get it. If you have room an Allis WD can usually be had for $1500 and up and 3 pt conversions are available, same for the Farmalls. |
Big Dave,
$800 is a good price for a 9n, nonrunning in unknown condition. It can be parted out for that if necessary. Put the battery, positive ground, in and see if it turns over first. Make sure the clutch isn't stuck. Do everything possible first, to get fuel flow and spark plugs firing before using any ether....... Check also for a plugged up muffler--critters can usually climb in and make lovely homes there. If so, it will crank forever but back pressure will keep it from firing. Here's the discussion board to go to for complete information. http://www.ytmag.com/nboard/wwwboard1.html Have fun. geo |
We paid 2600 for ours 4 yrs ago! :eek: It was in near daily use. We get it & repair it daily. :flame:
Having said that, we love it. You cannot get me to get off it once I start mowing. But we've had to do a tune up, not a prob, fix steering, fix so much else I can't even remember...battery problem is the current thing...charge it -run it for hrs-try to start it the next day & its totally dead...? Patty |
Thats a terrible deal Big Dave and if you give me the number of the guy selling it I will call and tell him your not interested...you know, just to be neighborly an all..:D
Actually as already mentioned, for $800.00 you really cant go wrong even if you just part it out but you got good advice. We are looking at an 8N for $1000 that you can almost see the paint under the rust and the electrical is more tape than anything else. We want ours for a project and maybe to do some light bush hogging and we will be getting a newer tractor with a FEL for the real work. Just post some pictures when you get it. Oh and here is a link for Ford Tractor restoration parts...www.dennis-carpenter.com just to get you motivated. I love the 2N, 9N, 8N Fords. |
I'm not very fond of the old Ford tractors, but for $800 if it meets your needs then not bad deal. I wouldnt necessarily have to hear it run to buy, but would want to remove all spark plugs, put squirt oil in each cylinder then crank it a bit to lube cylinders and do compression test. More to see if there is even compression between cylinders than anything. But at $800 I guess not just horrible deal even if you had to totally rebuild the engine assuming you can do the grunt labor. The old Fords are one of few antique tractors with truly reasonable priced and available parts.
These arent a powerhouse of tractor. They are light weight and underpowered and without the Sherman stepdown transmission they are geared awkward. But then so are lot of simular antique smaller tractors. |
I agree that it is a great price for even an unknown condition tractor of this model. I am now starting to see some on the market in my area for around $1500 and am starting to think about getting one to refurbish. I'd like to refurbish one and give it to my brother to replace the pile of *** N that he has. He is lucky if he can even get his started.
|
B/4 you spray any either, make sure you have spark and that it will turn over. Never spray either into an engine that isn't turning over! It washes the oil off the cyl walls...
You want it turning, and at a good speed so the oil pressure is up. If it fires on either, it can be made to run. Remember that alot of these were 6 volt positive ground systems. Clean up the battery terminals. Put it in neutral [block the wheels] b/4 trying to crank it in case the clutch is rusted fast... |
Quote:
Do understand, it's a light weight tractor with non-live hydraulics. It's a real pain. $800, you can probably break even or make a profit parting it out, if you consider your time worthless. Check that hydraulic dipstick for water. Sitting outside odds are it's got water in there. That freezes and busts the hydraulic pump. A well known common problem with them. |
NOW, seeing all the openions that have been givin. Go change your handle and come in saying you have found a C<H<M< Farmall, A.B.H,, A AC C WD< WD 45, Oliver 60, 70, . U take your pick, and post it here and compare the responses to it, IN THE SAME CONDITION, AND CIRCUMSTANCES AS YOUR FORD, and see if theres a different openion.
Check the front steering spendals? If there wore out, you might be able to see the F wheels wobble if shaken. Drive it at high speed, and that will tell the tale regardless. Raising the lift up and down dont mean much. U need to see it plow, and if it will raise the plow OUT of the ground, AND KEEP IT UP FOR 5 MINS without it lowering itself. . Take a look at the PTO. Does it shake? Is there oil around it. is it twisted? If so, then it has been used on a brush hog without a slip clutch, and thyve hit something like a rock or a stone and twisted the PTO shaft. Ive seen tractors that this has happened to, but I dont know what that does to the interior gears. Cant be good. GRANNY. Sounds like you need to wrewire yours. Good luck. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE LOOKED AT THE REAR TIRES A L L THE WAY AROUND FOR CRACKS GASHES ECT. Cracks arent so bad, but if u can see the tube, thats bad. Those tires run around $200 thereabouts with tubes. If you can see the tubes, if the PTO shaft is twisted, If it cant lift a plow socked into the field, If the lift wont hold up 200lbs without letting it fall back, if it shakes when it is driven fast, if it has a grinding sound when you start it indicateing a wqore down ring gear, Figure around or more than $200 to fix each of these things if somebody else does the labor with parts. |
Well you are certainly right Bill about opinions differing with different tractors. The N series Fords are somewhat thought of as working toy, one that everyone tend to have fond memories of. The others you mentioned are actually more work horses than the Ford but they simply don't have the "toy" appeal of the Ford so are less valuable even though they might do more work.
If I wanted a tractor for doing some real work I'd look at the others, but to restore and for minor use I'd pick the Ford simply because it holds value so well compared to the others. None are in plentiful supply where I have lived or currently live so I might pick something else entirely. With the modern compacts having been on the market for a number of years now the chance of getting a good used hard working tractor is getting easier. I think that along with the economy is what is starting to push the N series Ford lower in price. All of the above is just my opinion of course and is placed for your amusement. |
Go for it. If you hate it you can sell it. Alot of people don't have(or are not willing to spend) 10-30k for a tractor when they are not earning a living with. not even 5k. You could have the 9n...even if you put 1500.00 into mechanics and 1500 into implements...you would still have a good easy to work on tractor and hog,blade,boom and disc.
That being said, my 8n would not crank this morning :heh: ... However, a few days from now I will have a little more knowledge than I have before....be a little more self sufficient for having fixed a problem....and be right back cutting brush. |
Still glad you asked?
An old tractor like that has to be a labor of love. $800 doesn't seem to out of line if it at least runs from some of the garbage I have seen sell for 2K in that era. Old fords sell pretty high for some reason I really haven't understood yet. They all do for that matter. There is quite a network for parts and advice for these tractors. Shouldn't be a problem if you are familiar with a wrench. I was going to upgrade and at least get one that wasn't older than I am. I checked prices and looked a few over and decided what I would have to do to get them up to my standards. I said screw it and decided to put a few bucks into what I have. It's a good listener, we talk often. So far it's worked out really well but I'm not done. A few setbacks. My wife has the accountant type personality/background and they have a saying about "being as tight as the bark on a tree". I personally know what that means. |
Quote:
|
Well indeed I have gotten good info here. I have been negotiating on this perticular tractor for going on seven years. The sound of a new Harley and being just short of cash for the fella got me where I wanted it in price. It has been converted to 12 volt. Brush hog is thrown in for 100 extra. Since I posted the price went down 100 also. so now I get the brush hog. I want a disc, box blade and small plow.I already have a Ford 420 Back hoe with a front end loader.I just want something to work in the garden with. I used to have an 8n when I was a kid and just loved it. When I get my new garden terraced out of the south side of my ridge, with the back hoe and bucket I will work the soil in the garden with the 9N.
|
Make sure it suits your workload and reality.
I was sold on one as well for my tiny farm and it seemed like the perfect fit. But 1rst is fast! Reverse is really fast. 2wd sucks! It couldn't pull a plow nicely through my heavy soil, and always needed some form of maintenance. Mowing/brushcutting is a nightmare- the driving clutch engages the blade as well, meaning there is lugging. I think the 8N is better for this. I traded mine in for a newer tractor and wish I had just bought new initially. |
Quote:
A 2n/9n/8n is a fine chore tractor, it's just not a "real" tractor in terms of weight, power, utility or capability. And yes famerbill, if it was a WD45 he'd have a whole 'nuther set of opinions. |
A 9N is great if you're 3 legged. It's pedals are designed differently then an 8N and it has a brake on either side and the clutch on the left with the left brake. It's great for spinning like a top especially going down hill.
Bush hog had better have an over run clutch on the PTO shaft or you will learn how a tractor can keep going even with the clutch depressed or even the engine shut off. If you are checking this tractor to see if it turns over be sure to be sitting in the seat. If the neutral safety has been bypassed and the clutch is sticky you can easily run yourself over. Clutches are bad to stick on these if sitting for any period of time. |
Beeman points out just the things that I would mention--the brake/clutch arrangement, and the necessity of having any over-run clutch with a brush hog mower. But, I bought mine in running condition at a farm auction almost 20 years ago, drove it home (20 miles or so), later overhauled the engine, and bought an inexpensive 5' brush hog type of mower. I use it a lot to mow between my rows of trees planted on hilly ground, and I like the low stance and wide front of the 9N. The over-running clutch was cheap and has worked without problems for almost 20 years, now, with just a shot of grease every time I use it. I have replaced one rear tire and one front, the other 2 tires were almost new when I bought the machine. It is great for the mowing that I do, although a nice new small 4wheel drive modern tractor with live PTO and live hydraulics would be much nicer, but I have less than $2000 invested in the Ford 9N including maintenance over the 20 years, and it is probably worth almost that right now, if I advertised it. It works well for pulling a trailer around the property too, hauling firewood or manure.
The clutch and brake pedal arrangement is the big drawback! and it is something that many people don't realize is a problem until they are driving along and suddenly wish they had 3 legs! |
Big Dave,
There is a "sort of retired" factory trained ford tractor mechanic in Magazine. He checked out my 841 when I bought it and replaced a part in the carb and charged $35.00. He likes to "visit" and has explained how to check/do/repair several things for the price of driving down and visiting him. Also he has ordered several small parts for me for less than online prices and no shipping/handling fee... Please make sure you have a Overrunning PTO Clutch/adapter before using the brush hog... if not you may get to "go for a ride".... --Dwight & MissKitty |
Good luck and enjoy.
Two days ago I finally got my ole Massey fired up and ready for this season. Today, as you well know, it's snowing. Ha! Peace my friend Dennis PS Have you tried tried the lamb yet? |
Another thing to check is the frt. end. When it wears it will allow the axle to contact the dist, break the cap and stop the tractor. Of course instead of fixing it properly most will rig a stop of some sort wearing tha axle more. The shifter boot will crack allowing water in. Since the pump is at the bottom of the housing that's where the water goes. Since you live where it freezes the water will freeze and break the pump, very common. The driveline dipstick will also break off easily leaving a hole for water.
If you get happily involved with an old tractor you will need the forums at Yesterdays tractors magazine. |
Like Beeman said, also check out YT Forums online
|
I have a 2N that we use to plow in the winter, and regularly mow 3 acres with in the summer-with our 3-point brushhog. A live PTO would be great, but we get by, the local Ford dealer still has parts, Ebay is loaded with anything one needs, and a lot of people around here have them also, so a repair question is always answered in short order. Some have a front bucket on them, one even has a backhoe! cheap to buy, maintain, and when you sell it in 20 years, you'll get out of it what you've put in it!
|
Congrats Big Dave, if it's what you want, don't let anyone talk you out of it!:goodjob: I have had a 2N, 9N and 8N (a picture of the 8N is on my web site). Will say I like the 8N the best, but have fond memories of that old 9N of Dads in the tobacco fields. We thought we were rich, the 9N replaced a couple of mules.:bouncy:
I am using my 8N with a 5' bush hog, 6' scrape blade and have plowed with a two bottom plow. If you get it running right it will do the job, as long as you understand it's limits. It was built in the 40's so we can't expect it to do the type of "modern" work of newer tractors. That's fine with me, I like the way it was done then better than now anyhow! Keep us posted on your progress with it. Hank http://www.doublemfarmandchuckwagon.webs.com |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:30 AM. |