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  #2341  
Old 04/10/13, 09:10 PM
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Info of possible interest to a bunch of extremists, the NPK values for "everything" but their everything does not include farm moralities, road kills, or nosy neighbors.

http://www.lundproduce.com/N-P-K-Val...verything.html

I found that while looking for the NPK+micros for dead animals. Google hasn't been helpful. Can anyone offer a helpful link?
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  #2342  
Old 04/10/13, 09:22 PM
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Well, I don't know about the NPK value.
That's prolly over-rated, anyhows...

But I do know that my 1983 biology teacher told me that the mature human body was worth, at the time, and in US "dollars".......roughly 97 cents, for trace mineral value alone.

I figure, what with inflation and all, we must each be worth a small fortune by now.
I'm thinkin' a disappearin' for a while and then send some rich relative a ransom note...... you know, a few weeks later.
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  #2343  
Old 04/10/13, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CesumPec View Post
Info of possible interest to a bunch of extremists, the NPK values for "everything" but their everything does not include farm moralities, road kills, or nosy neighbors.

http://www.lundproduce.com/N-P-K-Val...verything.html

I found that while looking for the NPK+micros for dead animals. Google hasn't been helpful. Can anyone offer a helpful link?
NPK value of a human body is 3-1.1-0.25. Birds and animals would have a higher nitrogen value due to their feathers and hair.

Martin
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  #2344  
Old 04/10/13, 10:44 PM
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Some people are hairier than others..........
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  #2345  
Old 04/10/13, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Paquebot View Post
NPK value of a human body is 3-1.1-0.25. Birds and animals would have a higher nitrogen value due to their feathers and hair.

Martin
And the micro nutrients?

That was helpful. And now I have to set up a spreadsheet to compute how many humans/acre are needed to fertilize my land. And given that pines need K and the low K value per human, I'm thinking someone is going to notice Walmart isn't as crowded as it used to be. My plan may need some refinement.

Actually, the reason i asked is that I use a spreadsheet to calculate by weight the NPK and Organic matter, Ca, B, Mg, Mn, S, and Zn for the sludge I haul in. I have been counting roadkills under organic matter, for lack of anything more accurate. I started this because the sludge is heavy in Ca and high Ph. Per my soil test, I'm moving the Ph in the wrong direction, especially where I'll have berries. But the soil is so poor and only 0.5% OM, so I don't want to stop the sludge. I'll have to bring in some pine needles from elsewhere on the farm and probably buy some S.

My dump trailer was over filled today. Brought in 8.75 tons of sludge, just 1.25 tons over design limit, and the hydraulics won't lift the dump body. So I have to use the backhoe to pull out the load and hope haven't damaged anything.
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  #2346  
Old 04/11/13, 08:11 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Rusk, TX
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Well, in a couple of months we will be moving to our 30 acres of clay and pine trees. On the 40 minute drive from the property to work, I pass at least four saw mills/ lumber yards. I've already talked to one cedar place and he will let me have all the saw dust he has if I load it. The pile around back is 20' high and 40' wide. I'm sure I won't have a problem getting other wood products from other mills.

Where I'm going to have a problem is getting greens. Obviously, I need to look for sale barns, horse barns, and things of that nature. I was also thinking coffee grounds from coffee places but I can't think of any in the area. Is there something else that I could tap into? Any other ideas?

I will be mowing the area around the house and brush hogging the rest a couple times per year. I would think of getting the grass clippings but the top soil is so poor that I'm thinking it would be better to let the grass lay where it falls.

thoughts?

thanks
Austin
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  #2347  
Old 04/11/13, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CesumPec View Post
My dump trailer was over filled today. Brought in 8.75 tons of sludge, just 1.25 tons over design limit, and the hydraulics won't lift the dump body. So I have to use the backhoe to pull out the load and hope haven't damaged anything.

Find yerself a toothless ditch bucket.....that's what I use to clean my wagons out when necessary. MUCH easier on the woodwork.
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  #2348  
Old 04/11/13, 09:59 AM
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Austin, those piles of sawdust you envision adorning the nether and secluded portions of your domain will be there, happily and very sloooooowly breaking down while you get yourself situated and your N sources lined up.

Commune with the piles, and encourage members of the family to do the same.

Service the community by removing roadkill--- great source of N.

I would let those clippings fall on that poor soil, but there me be yard waste disposal sites around.....

A pile with too much N is a nuisance, at best.

Piles of pure C are priceless resources ever in waiting.

That said, if you spread your sawdust six inches thick and then work it in, and leave it sit for a year or two, you'll have the beginnings of rich soil. Carbon is the only sponge on earth that will properly accumulate and hold the other nutrients that make great soil.
Pure sand/pure clay will let nutrients slip through. Carbon is the steel trap of the sharp mind of soil nutrition. Start your organic trap line, today!
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  #2349  
Old 04/11/13, 10:23 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dablack View Post
Well, in a couple of months we will be moving to our 30 acres of clay and pine trees. On the 40 minute drive from the property to work, I pass at least four saw mills/ lumber yards. I've already talked to one cedar place and he will let me have all the saw dust he has if I load it. The pile around back is 20' high and 40' wide. I'm sure I won't have a problem getting other wood products from other mills.

Where I'm going to have a problem is getting greens. Obviously, I need to look for sale barns, horse barns, and things of that nature. I was also thinking coffee grounds from coffee places but I can't think of any in the area. Is there something else that I could tap into? Any other ideas?

I will be mowing the area around the house and brush hogging the rest a couple times per year. I would think of getting the grass clippings but the top soil is so poor that I'm thinking it would be better to let the grass lay where it falls.

thoughts?

thanks
Austin
Any convience store should generate lots of grounds. Any donut shops?
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  #2350  
Old 04/11/13, 11:10 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Rusk, TX
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FR,

6" thick? WOW! I was thinking I would spread it out about an 1" thick and let it break down on the surface. I don't have the tools to till it in right now but I'm sure I could rent something for my little 30hp kubota. That would for sure put the organic mater where I needed it. I am worried about trying to till between the pine trees. Most of those roots are not very deep. Obviously, in the garden area, the trees are coming out so I will try it there first.


Am1too,

Didn't think of the convinence stores! That is perfect. I pass at least five of those places. I could drop off a bucket on my way home and pick it up in the morning (or the otherway).

hmmmmm this might just work.

thanks
Austin
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  #2351  
Old 04/11/13, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dablack View Post
FR,

6" thick? WOW! I was thinking I would spread it out about an 1" thick and let it break down on the surface. I don't have the tools to till it in right now but I'm sure I could rent something for my little 30hp kubota. That would for sure put the organic mater where I needed it. I am worried about trying to till between the pine trees. Most of those roots are not very deep. Obviously, in the garden area, the trees are coming out so I will try it there first.
6" of cedar sawdust would guarantee a problem for next 10 years. Even if you had a plow or tiller which went a foot deep, that would result in 33% wood of a type which takes years to break down. 15% at a time is about maximum with normal wood but only if there is a nitrogen source to go under with it.

Martin
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  #2352  
Old 04/11/13, 01:06 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southeast Alabama
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Look for pine or hardwood sawdust or shavings, cedar does not break down fast. And for sure do not get cypress.
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  #2353  
Old 04/11/13, 01:10 PM
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Spreading sawdust where you don't plan to crop wouldn't require tilling.

Spreading cedar sawdust wouldn't be advantageous except for among the pines and cedars.

Use your cedar sawdust for those communing piles.

Are we talking white cedar, or red cedar ?
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  #2354  
Old 04/11/13, 03:01 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Rusk, TX
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We are talking red.

We are going to start with some raised beds (just to start). Maybe I can use it between the beds as weed suppression.
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  #2355  
Old 04/11/13, 05:41 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forerunner View Post
Spreading sawdust where you don't plan to crop wouldn't require tilling.

Spreading cedar sawdust wouldn't be advantageous except for among the pines and cedars.

Use your cedar sawdust for those communing piles.

Are we talking white cedar, or red cedar ?
I thought cedar would be cedar. Do they indeed have different break down properties? y wood chips usually come mixed with eastern red cedar.
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  #2356  
Old 04/11/13, 07:38 PM
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Red Cedar is more resistant to rot.

Using the stuff between raised beds for weed suppression is an excellent idea.
One could grow crops in the beds for some time while the sawdust breaks down and then incorporate the whole area......all the while adding nitrogen every time it comes available.

Do you have access to sawdust other than cedar?
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  #2357  
Old 04/12/13, 07:48 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Rusk, TX
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Other than cedar? I sure hope so. On the way between work and the new property, I pass a place that makes poles, a big saw mill operation (their pile is about 45' high), and a place that makes rail road ties (sweat gum?). I'm sure there are two or three more places just a little off my normal path if I looked.

I'm really hoping that I can get a load from whom ever every work day. I don't know how much a 1990 F250 can hold (2 yards?) but it would be great if I could bring home 20 loads a month. That would really bring home lots of material quickly.

I'm thinking I'm going to find an unload spot at the bottom of one of my steep hills so gravity will help me unload.

thanks
Austin
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  #2358  
Old 04/12/13, 05:09 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Southeast Alabama
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I know its a dumb time to ask(already did it) but was it okay for me to pour the almost half gallon of milk that had worked its way behind something in the frig and stayed hidden past the smell test in the compost pile.
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  #2359  
Old 04/12/13, 08:43 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dablack View Post
Other than cedar? I sure hope so. On the way between work and the new property, I pass a place that makes poles, a big saw mill operation (their pile is about 45' high), and a place that makes rail road ties (sweat gum?). I'm sure there are two or three more places just a little off my normal path if I looked.

I'm really hoping that I can get a load from whom ever every work day. I don't know how much a 1990 F250 can hold (2 yards?) but it would be great if I could bring home 20 loads a month. That would really bring home lots of material quickly.

I'm thinking I'm going to find an unload spot at the bottom of one of my steep hills so gravity will help me unload.

thanks
Austin
If you have an 8' bed it should be almost 3 yrds level full. If you put sides on it you should be able to get 6 yrds easy unless it is real wet. Then it could b a weight problem. I get 3 yrds wet compost dumped on my 8' bed with no tarp. Does jack the nose a might on a 1/2 ton pea cup.
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  #2360  
Old 04/12/13, 08:45 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oswego View Post
I know its a dumb time to ask(already did it) but was it okay for me to pour the almost half gallon of milk that had worked its way behind something in the frig and stayed hidden past the smell test in the compost pile.
i'd say yep and cover it at least an inch to keep flies off.
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