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  #21  
Old 02/22/10, 09:09 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 316
I used 3/4" PVC pipe every 46", bowed and held at the bottom 2x4 wood frame with U bolts. Then covered it with metal cloth and zip ties to the PVC. The house area is covered with a heavy duty tarp on top of the wire. There is a open run area at the other half. You can extend the wire cloth at the sides by 8" or so to keep critters from getting underneath. I've also extended the heavy side with the wood end and put wheels about 2 feet from the house end so I can pick up the light end of the tractor and roll it around.

Simple, cheap (except for the wire) and very easy to move around so there is no cleaning. Grass is very green where it has been parked.
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  #22  
Old 02/22/10, 09:35 PM
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Windy Island Acres
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: The Quiet Corner of CT
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Originally Posted by Callieslamb View Post
Won't the angle depend on what the angle at the top is? I am no builder - DH is an engineer and does things absolutely perfectly....ever time.......stinks huh? Here's how I would do it. Cut your top angle - put the board in place as it will be used. Lay the Bottom 2x4 beside it to mark the angle and where it will hit it.

Are you sure flat topped ones wouldn't work just as well?

We did an A-frame tractor, but bent electric conduit for the uprights rather than usingwoos. We were trying to make one that was lighter - as well as able to be taken apart and stored. DH bent a short conduit piece in an 'A' shape for the top (the legs are about 10" long. We connected the long side pieces into that "A-shaped". At the bottom, he bent the pieces so they would slide into a 2x4 on edge. So straight then a sligh bend about 8 inches from the bottom. If the pieces weren't buried under a ton of stuff, I would take a picture for you.
The more I read, the flatter it becomes
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  #23  
Old 02/22/10, 10:26 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: SW Michigan
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Originally Posted by suelandress View Post
The more I read, the flatter it becomes
I hear you!!!! That's why Dh builds and I keep track of his tools.....
but Joel Salatin ( guru of pastured poultry- and every thing else)has flat topped tractors 3-4 feet high.
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  #24  
Old 02/22/10, 10:43 PM
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Just figured an A frame would be better with our snow loads. But shoveling snow is good exercise, right
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  #25  
Old 02/22/10, 10:57 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 7,609
Like I said, I - or anyone here - could show you in about 10 minutes how to do it. It's simple.

the hard part is figuring it out the 1st time; and trying to describe how to do it with just words.

Buy a couple extra 2x4s, and try it. You'll get there. It's not complicated. Folks 100 years ago were doing it without electricity, or more than 5 tools. It's a hands-on deal.

Give it a go, best way to learn. Wrong cut on a 2x4 just means you have a slightly shorter 2x4 to use for the next project. Won't go to waste.

--->Paul
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  #26  
Old 02/22/10, 11:18 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 3,116
Wow, I am impressed how hard things are made to be. Decide how high you want the peak of your a frame to be. Use 2x4 long enough to be at right angles, lap them one over the other. Make as many of these as needed. Then have at least a top runner and a bottom runner. You may want a runner at each edge of your wire (I would). Use a 3 ft wide hardware cloth for the bottom and the smallest chicken wire for the rest. Have your runners for the edges of your wire out of 1x3 or stud length 2x4 unless you want treated lumber (best in long run). Frame the ends on the ground for a door. measure to get things square and mark the 2x4 where they lap past the a. and cut. A possible solution to keep varmeits from digging under could be solved with probably a foot wide of the largest chicken wire on the ground and covered or tacked down. If you cover the ground wire you can mow right over it. A good dog would not hurt.

am1too

Last edited by am1too; 02/22/10 at 11:21 PM.
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