2 Well pipe questions

Sawmill Jim · #21 02/05/10, 09:04 AM

Did you use any of those couplers that come on the pipe ???If you did this may be part of the problem as they are thread proctors not couplings

Pipe couplers are tapered threads thread proctors are straight threads .Use red loctite on them .

fishhead · #22 02/05/10, 09:45 AM

I used drive couplers for the well and once I got inside the house I used a regular coupler since I was no longer pounding on it.

When I pull the well next spring I'm going to clean the threads and just use teflon paste. Then I'm thinking of cleaning off the threads where they disappear into the coupler and put some proflex chaulking at the junction.

agmantoo · #23 02/05/10, 11:44 AM

fishhead

For a bandaid why not plumb an additional tank on the well side of the checkvalve and let it store water to leak out the joints and to maintain prime?. Where I live hard water will cause the leaking joints to seal within weeks.

Do you think if you plumbed a solenoid valve parallel to the checkvalve and connect the solenoid valve to the pressure switch so that when the pump turns on water would feed from the bladder tank side to the intake side of the pump it would automatically prime the pump since there is so little head?

fishhead · #24 02/05/10, 12:58 PM

Interesting idea. Since I don't have a foot valve I don't think any water is escaping through faulty joints. Instead I "see" tiny air bubbles getting sucked into the vaccuum thus allowing an equal amount of water to escape through the sand point.

I have thought of putting the reservoir on the pump side of the check valve to store priming water to avoid having to mess with the plugs every time I want to reprime it. That is plan D. Tonight I'll put plan B into effect. Hopefully I won't reach plan D.

I need to have a no hassle fix because I'm getting the house ready to rent.

ace admirer · #25 02/09/10, 10:47 AM

Audels book specs for 1 1/4 sch 40 pipe: hand tight 4 3/4 turns, wrench tight 3 1/4 turns, total 8 turns.

artificer · #26 02/09/10, 11:26 AM

I've heard several old time plumbers say that pipe dope is better than tape for the long term. The dope will act like an adhesive, while the tape only seals the threads. Don't know if I believe it, but it could make sense.

Michael

agmantoo · #27 02/09/10, 01:12 PM

fishhead

Where in the sequence of the plumbing fitting arrangement is the checkvalve currently located? On the inlet or outlet side of the pump?

farminghandyman · #28 02/09/10, 01:58 PM

I am taking that this is a driven well, (my guess is your driving of the pipe compressed the threads and or couplers threads making them loose),
and guessing this is as shallow jet pump one pipe unit? and if there is not a check valve, on the well drop a Polly pipe in side the 1 1/4 pipe down to the sand point and pump on the Polly pipe or even a PVC pipe, and use the steel as a casing. if one can get a 40 foot or even a 20' PVC one should be able to get at least a 3/4" pipe down if not a 1" pipe. inside the 1 1/4" steel.

fishhead · #29 02/09/10, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by agmantoo

fishhead

Where in the sequence of the plumbing fitting arrangement is the checkvalve currently located? On the inlet or outlet side of the pump?

The check valve is on the intake side of the pump.

I bought a roll of 1" polypipe and once it relaxes I'm going to shove it down inside the old well pipe and hook it directly to the check valve of the pump.

Then when the ground thaws I'm going to pull my new well and pull all the joints apart. Then I'll put them back together using only teflon paste. It should tap down into the hole without too much danger of loosening or wrecking the threads.

When I was driving one of the wells at the farm I didn't keep the joint at the drive coupler tight enough and it beat the threads down to look like a beer bottle. The threads wouldn't even touch the coupler anymore let alone tighten.

I wonder if an electric driver loosens the threads more than the old fence post driver?

fishhead · #30 02/09/10, 02:49 PM

Yes it is a driven sandpoint well and the pump is a shallow well jet pump that connects directly to the well pipe instead of putting the head down in the well.

People in the well business have suggested that chinese pipe might not have good threads. I was thinking that might mean that the pipe would have say 10 threads per inch but the couplers might only have 9.95 threads per inch.

agmantoo · #31 02/09/10, 03:13 PM

Fishhead
I do not do sandpoint wells. If I wanted to drive multiple joints of pipe into the ground and have integrity with the joints I would push them in instead of hammering. Most folks do not have the means to push and I know that. The best trick that I do know is to enlarge the coupling diameter immediately above the sandpoint. I know that the seal between the pipe and the soil would be compromised. But if the end of the area being driven is slightly larger that the rest of the materials above, the friction is reduced and allows for the entire length to be driven much easier. When it is necessary to drive a ground rod in hard dry clay, it is nearly impossible without a hammer drill. In times when I didn't have access to one I would sharpen the end of the ground rod and then drive a nut that is slightly larger in diameter onto the sharpened end. Then is it easy to use a T post driver to drive the ground rod. It works. yes I know the electrical ground is not as good but sometimes you do what you have to do.

Darren · #32 02/09/10, 03:37 PM

I suggest you buy pipe dope from a plumbing supply house rather than someplace like a hardware, Lowes or Home Depot. I've had problems in the past until I changed. In my experience it's a better more consistent product.

fishhead · #33 02/09/10, 03:53 PM

One local guy I know welded his joints before pounding the well down. He used a heavy weight hanging from a tripod that was lifted by a rope wrapped around a spinning drum mounted on an elevated tractor wheel. Everything was going good until the rope wrapped over itself and wouldn't let go. The weight went up until it hit the pulley and then all heck broke loose.

Luckily no one died that day.

If I ever drive another one I may rent a wirefeed welder and weld the couplers to the pipe.

I still think that pipe paste in the threads should hold enough suction without having to tighten the threads until your eyeballs bulge out.

fishhead · #34 02/10/10, 07:38 PM

I just finished inserting 1" polypipe inside the 1 1/4" well pipe. It went well until it hit the first joint 4' in and since I have a joint every 4' I thought it was going to be a long night but I cut V's across from each other in the end of the polypipe and then pinched them into a birds beak. It slipped right into the pipe all the way to the sandpoint.

As long as my polypipe fitting to brass check valve connection and the polypipe to polypipe barb fitting clamps work I should be good to go until spring.