Metal roofs

JOSHIE -- If you are paying a contractor to do the job his estimate could push $300 per square. Around $3000 would sound about right if they use 2x4 striping. The number of valleys bring up the time involeved with instalation. Stripping off the old shingles cost more also. I don't see a valid reason for stripping them off. They deaden the sound from the metal, and give a little insulation also. <>Unk

We have a metal roof on a 3000 sq ft hip roofed home. Installed it ourselves. Make sure your roof is hail rated if that is a local problem. We installed continuous ridge venting to help with cooling the attic and our roof is white. All of my other purchased roofs are white too. I say purchased because sheep barns are made with 2nd hand roofing - color doesn't matter to the sheep. I usually get around to painting them white with Rust-o-leum eventually, when there are no other chores to do - yeah right, sure!!!

I have a slight issue with laying metal over old shingles and directly on the decking even with tar paper .
. The issue over existing shingle is trapped moisture and heat make a breeding ground for mold an fungus .
Tar paper will absorb moisture and rot very quickly allowing the moisture sweated off the metal to rot the decking.
If your going to install a metal roof it depends on what type you installing.
the high rib barn type metal your better off removing the old shingles then apply a synthetic tar paper replace ment such as doupont roof liner (it designed not to rot will not tear and comes with its own 25 year warrantee ) then install stringers (2x4s though some use 1xs I dont personally believe they supply near enough for the screws to bite into for wind resistance) stringers should be place along all edges then on 2-3 ft centers (yes I know some go as far as 4ft I prefer more support) be sure to get rake and gable trim as the bottom trim should be installed first (this can be nails as your panel will screw through it) to deal with plumbing vent pipes an bathroom exust fans I generally divert them and run them through the ridge flush to avoid any un=-need holes in the panels ( I do the same with standing seam though it is laid without the stringers)
Its not rocket science just remember the old joke about plumbing .
Things run down hill.
wth a roof you always start at the bottom and everything goes over what you just put on .
Some suppliers can supply the correct skylight flashings preformed they are a little more expensive but will save you a ton on caulking and leaks later down the road . do it right the first time and you dont have to worry about it later .
everyone will ignore the roof until it starts leaking where they can see , often by that time theres a lot of unseen damage. do yourself a favor and check your attic every year or so .

We had a metal roof specialist come out to give us a quote. He said that in some cases you can leave the old shingles on, but he did not recommend it our case. We have an 1865 farm house and the roof has 2 layers of asphalt singles on top of wooden shingles. The roofer said he couldn't be sure the 2x4 stringers would hold onto the wooden shingles since they are probably very dry and would split. He would recommend removing the 2 layers of asphalt shingles and then wooden shingles, then start over with plywood then, synthetic tar paper, stringers and metal.

We haven't gotten the quote yet so I don't know how expensive it will be.

deb
in wi

Our back deck gets dumped on by the cabin roof and our big barn is a monitor style so the lower roof gets dumped on by the upper roof before it all goes to the ground. Both the deck and the roof were built to take the load so we have no problems.