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01/10/10, 12:26 PM
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Brenda Groth
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 7,817
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salvaging stainless steel shouldn't be a problem..that stuff will last forever
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01/10/10, 02:08 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Kawalek
I wouldn't even consider reusing old used pipe, and I think trying to make your own is suicidal. Remember, you're going to be lighting a fire inside and then going to bed. I go to sleep assured that my chimney is built to code with 2100F triple wall pipe. My cabin's piping cost me about 900$ per chimney. Think any insurance company is going to say OK to homemade pipe?
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Talking single wall pipe that goes from your stove to the chimney whether your chimney is stainless or masonary. Look at the black single wall pipe new from the store and tell me how thats different than unrusted sheet metal of the same thickness. Neither is protected from rust in the slightest. Not talking using rusted out used pipe, talking about making my own from unrusted salvaged sheet metal. After couple months use, doubt you could tell the difference.
As guy above said, stainless sheet metal would make even better stove pipe if you can find it reasonable.
And if you have to please a bank or insurance company, forget any thinking for yourself, they want to force you to protect THEIR investment to the utmost in the most conventional way, since its not their money being spent. They have you by the apricot pits and are squeezing down hard.
__________________
"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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01/10/10, 09:30 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Okanagan Valley BC
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Kawalek
I wouldn't even consider reusing old used pipe, and I think trying to make your own is suicidal. Remember, you're going to be lighting a fire inside and then going to bed. I go to sleep assured that my chimney is built to code with 2100F triple wall pipe. My cabin's piping cost me about 900$ per chimney. Think any insurance company is going to say OK to homemade pipe?
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So you sleep assured with pipe made in some factory probably in China by some poorly paid labor or a computerized robot. Made to specifications set by the government that may or may not be followed? If i had the material i would for sure make my own chimney pipe though i lean more to a masonry chimney for its heat sink capabilities.
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01/10/10, 10:06 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Indiana
Posts: 473
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We put in a woodstove last year and waited until around March. All the stove pipe at Menards was marked down on clearance plus they had 20% off sale for anything we could put in a bag you had to purchase for .50 (going green reusable bag) it was great because we purchased 8 bags ($4.00) and the nice check out lady said all the pipe would fit in those. We saved a bunch of money. What I guess I'm saying is, watch for sales. They are out there you just have to do a little work.
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01/11/10, 08:56 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtjf_1
So you sleep assured with pipe made in some factory probably in China by some poorly paid labor or a computerized robot. Made to specifications set by the government that may or may not be followed? If i had the material i would for sure make my own chimney pipe though i lean more to a masonry chimney for its heat sink capabilities.
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You only use single wall black pipe to connect a stove to a chimney, not as a chimney unless just desperate. I use galvanized pipe to go up my masonary chimney as a liner to keep from cleaning with wire brushes plus draws better. However if it fails, the tile lined masonary chimney is still perfectly capable of working safely without it. Water is the big enemy of non-stainless pipe. I've had some last 10 years and then some newly installed only last one year cause rain cap blew off and I procrastinated replacing it. Dancing on roof ridge isnt really my thing.
Also I've seen single wall stove pipe factory made to all kinds of standards, everything from thin wall to thick, some galvanized, some not, and not talking heating duct pipe, but stuff sold as wood stove pipe. So I doubt there truly is any actual govt standard.
__________________
"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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01/11/10, 09:33 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtjf_1
So you sleep assured with pipe made in some factory probably in China by some poorly paid labor or a computerized robot. Made to specifications set by the government that may or may not be followed? If i had the material i would for sure make my own chimney pipe though i lean more to a masonry chimney for its heat sink capabilities.
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I bought American made pipe, thank you very much!
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01/11/10, 11:06 AM
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aka avdpas77
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: central Missouri
Posts: 3,416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HermitJohn
I personally wouldnt care to heat with a non-airtight stove, but have a friend in another state that has heated for decades with cheap non-airtight box stove. She has good drawing chimney and is willing to baby sit the thing adding dry wood little by little to maintain the level of heat she wants. Works for her and has worked for lot of our ancestors in the past. Now if you think you are going to stuff a non-airtight with wood and let er rip, well at best you are going to get short blast of intense sauna heat then it will get cold quick.. At worst you will burn your house down.
I am still using a Sotz air tight barrel stove kit I bought in early eighties. I suspect its nearly as efficient as any simular size airtight stove made today especially since I got the optional auto draft. If it ever rusts into oblivion then wouldnt be too hard to weld up airtight of my own design, alas no replacement auto draft available anymore. Barrel stoves on market today are not airtight, Sotz was the only maker of such that I know about. Course if I ran onto a cheap large Jotul boxstove that hadnt been overfired and warped, I would consider it, they were nice stove, still are, just very pricey.
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I have a US Stove wood/coal furnace. It has an autodrafte mechanism in the loading door. I don't know if you could adapt it to your unit, but I just replaced mine so I know they are available.
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01/11/10, 11:47 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 7,692
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o&itw
I have a US Stove wood/coal furnace. It has an autodrafte mechanism in the loading door. I don't know if you could adapt it to your unit, but I just replaced mine so I know they are available.
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What kind of money do they go for? If cheap then might be worth experimenting with.
My auto draft is still working, but writing on the wall as I can no longer adjust it for different temperature output as that part of it has rusted tight. but the thermostatic spring stil opens and closes the flapper. It really is a simple thing and quite a marvel as it makes stove lot more efficient without babysitting. Its possible I could use spring out of old carburetor automatic choke or spring that opened flap in manifold on old American engines when they warmed up. Be worth a try to see if such could adjust to work in heat range stove fires at.
__________________
"What would you do with a brain if you had one?" -Dorothy
"Well, then ignore what I have to say and go with what works for you." -Eliot Coleman
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01/11/10, 10:52 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Carthage, Texas
Posts: 12,261
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200 sounds cheap... mine was almost six hundred, and that was 12 years ago.
__________________
Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity. Seneca
Learning is not compulsory... neither is survival. W. Edwards Deming
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01/12/10, 12:15 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Sequim WA
Posts: 6,352
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When we purchased our pipe & fittings, DH checked with all the typical suppliers and then a local company called Kitsap Lumber (yep, lumber). They sold it for less than half what everyone else wanted! I'd definitely call around.
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01/12/10, 05:07 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern Missouri
Posts: 746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Kawalek
I bought American made pipe, thank you very much!
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I used to make galvanized stove pipe for a living.
I hate to tell you but the only way it got tested was- every 15 to 20 pieces.
Snap together a length of pipe be it 3" or 12". Check to see if it will zip. Good.
Drop it 2 foot off the ground- it should stay together, drop it 5 foot off the ground- it should pop apart.
The only regulations in the manufacturing of pipe that are regulated by the government was truth in what the pipes were made of. As far as function, there was nothing governing the pipe but the drop test.
The black rolled steel side had a carpet to drop there's onto.
__________________
Having a deep emotional conversation with my quilted buddy..........
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01/12/10, 09:34 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 3,406
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We have a wood stove in our garage/den area ( attatched) hubby made a cement "square" for it to go out the side of blding. ( didnt want to mess with going thru roof). We relplaced our black pipe this year 3Ft sections were 8.99 and elbows were 9.99 at Ace hardware... Might be worth looking there too
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