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  #41  
Old 09/28/09, 08:24 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lamoncha lover View Post
bluebird..how expensive and how confusing was putting in the radiant heat? any advice. If i can afford it I really want to do that as I have heard great things about it.
as for the structure itself..it is posts every 8 ft, trusses every 4. They do not put on roof sheathing. they are going to bubble wrap all side walls and roof which is supposed to be an effective vapor barrier. we will go back and insulate as much as we can.

Trusses every 4 ft? Are these wooden 2x4 trusses? Bubble wrap will deteriorate from the heat and it will be hot under that metal. Will you be leaving the ceiling open? Research what ET1SS did with spray insulation.
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  #42  
Old 09/28/09, 10:16 PM
black thumb
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Mid TN
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building

yes its posts evey 8 trusses every 4. I guess they are just standard barn trusses. Reasearch what who did? Sorry I must have missed something. As for the bubble wrap...wish folks that are sposed ot be building would tell ya up front what works and what dont. I am getting increasingly confused.thanks for the info,,what other reasonable options do we have?>
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  #43  
Old 09/28/09, 10:17 PM
black thumb
 
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we will be closing he ceiling in...
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  #44  
Old 09/29/09, 07:04 AM
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When we redo our ranch house, we will put a long porch along the front, and add solar light tubes in the kitchen, bathrooms, and hallways for natural light.
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  #45  
Old 09/29/09, 08:30 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: East TN
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The folks that build things like this are looking to maximize their profiy for the minimal outlay. They don't have to live with it. The only trusses that would do what you're saying would be the steel type that hold a 2x on edge for the roof metal to attach to. If closing the ceiling in you would want ventilation from the eaves and out the ridge, be very sure it will have this or you will have a rain forest in your attic. Bugs and critters can be a problem especially if they're not sheathing the roof. The ribs in the metal will leave big gaps at the eave line. Be sure there is something to attach gutters to, with a truss every 4 ft. it doesn't sound like you'll have eaves. Is there going to be an overhang past the walls? Look at the picture you posted. You will see the roof overhangs the building at the peay side and the back side. Did you show this picture to the builder?
ET1SS has had many posts about his metal building house and the insulation.
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  #46  
Old 09/29/09, 09:56 AM
black thumb
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Mid TN
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beeman
thanks for the input.
we will not be hanging sheet rock off the ceiling. Think we will probably go with metal. Less weight? I told the builder guy I wanted vented soffits with a 1 foot overhang. HIs estimate includes gutters.
I was so very excited. I will search for ET1SS posts.
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  #47  
Old 09/29/09, 11:23 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: North Eastern Missouri
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Our homestead is a 48X80 pole barn construction with an overhanging porch much like the pictured building. Metal roof, metal exterior walls, metal ceiling. Walls drywalled (need finished) on the inside. It is well insulated, and so far we haven't noticed any creaking, or any other noises in it. I LOVE the overhang porch best of all. It faces woods on our North side with the south side giving full sun exposure for warmth. I bet real money that the corner posts in the building are probably osage orange wood as that is what was used in the current owners new homestead that he is building next door.

Gutters are in place. Will post a pic as soon as we get settled in.

I see a lot of pole type construction being used in houses around Northern Missouri. Most Amish homesteads are pole barn construction as are most vacation properties. Economical, efficient and easy to care for.

I'm happy for you!
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  #48  
Old 10/05/09, 03:17 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Northern Michigan (U.P.)
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Your smallest concern: the porch will get a lot of sunlight. The sun is lower in the sky in the winter and should be fine. The porch will shield the house from the summer sun.

I fear the builder is just doing what you want, without a discussion. You want a pole barn style and you are getting it. Post stuck in the ground, trusses on 48 inch centers, poured concrete floor, metal roof with plastic to keep the roof's condensation from dripping on your head. Right?


To insulate and drywall the walls, he'll have to put up a 2 x 4 wall, with studs every 16 or 24 inches. Most barn trusses are not designed to carry any load, so attaching ceiling rafters on 16 inch centers and then drywall to the roof trusses is a code violation.

Paying for a pole barn and then framing it in like a stick built house is costly. Buying trusses designed for 48 inch spacing and then adding a bunch of construction lumber so you can make a ceiling is another added expense.

Up here, we often add sheets of foil backed foam insulation under a metal roof. Mostly to get the condensation from dripping on the cattle or machinery. Those metal roofs sure get hot in the summer, up here.

If you get enough sheets of plastic and foam insulation under the concrete floor, you can really cut down on the number of weeks you'll need to run your dehumidifier. Don't know how you'd handle carpet on concrete. Mold being such an issue lately.

I know awhile ago, people were complaining about the chemicals leaching out of their subfloor and paneling. That stuff they use now on pole barns is safe? Better than the copper arsinate on posts a few years ago.
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