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  #21  
Old 01/11/09, 07:36 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Indiana, USA
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The problem with cutting this brush, is that you will end up with 3-4 acrea of 1-2"stumps. In addition to tire damage, etc., they will just be something to stumble over and will likely have re-growth, which you will be re-cutting next year.

When I clear out brush by hand, I wait until spring when the ground is soft, cut the brush to about 3' stump, then use and ax and loppers, to cut the horizontal roots, which are right under the ground surface. I'll use the stump for leverage and just work the whole thing out. Gone for good and now I can mow or spray any new shoots.

Of course I done a lot less than 4 acres.

If I were you I'd offer a good ole' boy some cash, to bring his small dozer or blade.

Good luck
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  #22  
Old 01/11/09, 08:14 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 8,285
Here we got rental places rent a small dozer weth a tilt blade ??? Or a backhoe last on i used was 130 a day 24 hours i can dig a lot .
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  #23  
Old 01/11/09, 08:15 PM
just_sawing's Avatar
Haney Family Sawmill
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Liberty,Tennessee
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Here is what takes the stumps too.
Chainsaw to cut saplings? - Homesteading Questions
IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k285/just_sawing/IMG_5682.jpg[/IMG]
Chainsaw to cut saplings? - Homesteading Questions
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  #24  
Old 01/11/09, 08:16 PM
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When your finished
Chainsaw to cut saplings? - Homesteading Questions
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  #25  
Old 01/11/09, 10:22 PM
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Nova Scotia
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I agree, the forestry mulcher is your best bet.... you can probably find one in your local area to hire and when you consider how fast they will clear your lot, the cost should be worth it.
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  #26  
Old 01/12/09, 06:17 AM
In Remembrance
 
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Location: South Central Kansas
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For doing it by hand try some Fiskars geared lopers. They work great.
http://www.fiskars.com/webapp/wcs/st...atalogId=10101
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  #27  
Old 01/12/09, 06:54 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: So/West Missouri
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Kentuckysteader,
The two best ways: agmantoo is lowcost and safe as long as you use common sense and do not rush the job, just sawing a little costly but fast and does a good job.

The worst way is the chainsaw I worked at a saw shop and if you saw the injuries some of our customers had from unsafe use of chainsaws you would run the other way. I use a chainsaw often but the idea of cutting small sapplings and brush is not good the brush will cause some real kickback.

Glenn
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  #28  
Old 01/12/09, 07:53 AM
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Imagine what a few weeks with an ax and a brush fire would do for the waistline and upper body tone....
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  #29  
Old 01/12/09, 08:03 AM
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: sc
Posts: 2,638
I purchased some ratcheting loppers before Christmas that very easily, with no force at all, cuts through 2 to 3 inch sized limbs. I am female with less than stellar hand grip/strength following a wreck with a stupid drunk driver. This has made a huge difference for me and I recommend them.

dawn
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  #30  
Old 01/12/09, 08:47 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: N. E. TX
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God bless the inventor of the DR mower!! DH has cleared about 6 ac of brush/saplings/green briar/honey suckle/wild grape that we could not even wallk into w/our used DR.

Patty
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  #31  
Old 01/12/09, 09:14 AM
 
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I use a stihl weedeater with a blade on it to cut saplings on my hillsides. I can cut saplings up to about 1 1/2 inches easily with my dull blade.
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  #32  
Old 01/12/09, 10:00 AM
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Id use a matock and cut off what I could below the ground level then Id use a tractor and a lot of chains to pull what I could out by the roots.
When chaining use a zig zag pattern and hook multiple stalks to each pull.
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  #33  
Old 01/12/09, 10:32 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 428
What I am trying to clear is brush and bigger trees. Elm tree brush. I am taking out all the small stuff with lever loppers and dragging it out and then can get to bigger with a chain saw. But I am only doing a small area like 1/4 acre is my guess. Can not drop trees till cleared of the brush I feel for safety. Some apples in the mess too. I want the apples saved.
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  #34  
Old 01/12/09, 11:00 AM
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Location: Mountains of Vermont, Zone 3
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If you use a chain saw be careful to cut as low as possible and flat - don't make tiger stakes that can hurt people, animals and vehicle wheels.

Another solution, that works especially well after the ground hardens from frost, is to drive a tractor or bulldozer over the saplings. With the bucket down about a foot or two from the ground I just drive forward. Our 48hp tractor will push over fairly sizable trees. Just go slowly and watch that they don't come back at you either tumbling or whipping.

Cheers

-Walter
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in the mountains of Vermont
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  #35  
Old 01/12/09, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forerunner View Post
Imagine what a few weeks with an ax and a brush fire would do for the waistline and upper body tone....
and your back!
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  #36  
Old 01/12/09, 10:27 PM
Murphy was an optimist ;)
 
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Location: Kentucky
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I cleared about two acres one winter with a chainsaw, my back is never going to forgive me. As spring approached and the foliage began coming in.....on what I had cleared over the long winter as well as the stuff I hadnt got to yet. I opted to bring in a man with a small dozer. 75 bucks later the entire 5 acres was clean and ready to be sown in grass! I recall a saying I once heard from an old timer: "Work is for mules, fools, and tools." Over the years I have come to understand the meaning of that phrase all too well. Using the proper tool is nearly always the best route to take. In the case of clearing off overgrown land, hand labor is not on my menue, ever again. Dozers are so cool!
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  #37  
Old 01/13/09, 05:00 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Ontario
Posts: 749
I used a brush cutter on the end of my weedeater when I was clearing the acre for my house. Anything that was too big was cut by chainsaw. It all worked very well. Chris
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