In-depth diesel truck question

I think diesels have their place, especially for folks who put a ton of miles on a working/loaded pull truck. IMO, a diesel in a low use 1-ton or under is not worth the expense - and I'd go gas as well.

I'm going to take a stab in the dark and guess that the OP wants a pickup for more than just the move...
So far as the suggestions for a cheaper 1/2 ton (or non-heavy duty 3/4 ton), for the loads that are being suggested---Cheaper, yes, but that's really too light of a vehicle...
10,000 pounds is a pretty good sized load. (8-9 cows and a trailer, for an idea) A lighter pickup might be able to pull it, but that doesn't mean it should. It won't have a heavy duty tranny, heavier brakes, etc. required for a pickup that pulls heavy loads. And that's dangerous, as well as hard on your pickup.

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the Back Gate Country Quilt Shop

The early Ford/International 6.9 diesels had a few problems that were ironed out over time. I've had a couple and they're great trucks. The C6 doesn't live long if you're running heavy. I figure the trans will need rebuilt around 100K. The Stanadyne injection pumps have been improved since they first left the showroom. Rebuilders should be able to set one up that will do way over 100k miles. Not all rebuilders are top notch.

The valve guides in the 6.9s will pass oil. That really doesn't mean anything since it's just more fuel for the cylinder. You may see some ongoing oil useage. Just top it off and don't sweat it.

I should preface this reply as I should have noted in my first post, some very important notes: This truck will likely be Pony's daily driver, and will provide the majority of our travel, whether for work or pleasure, on the farm. That said, it needs SOME creature-comfort, needs to be reasonably recent, and we want the following amenities: 4wd, and an extra cab. Not a crew cab, just the extra. I

t's possible we will rarely use the 4wd, but given the winters in MO, we'd stand a better chance being able to get out of a ditch (or across it and briefly through the field to get back on the road) with 4wd than with 2wd, even with weight in the bed. The extra cab is for our personal cargo, and the times we bring the dog(s) with us. Yes, you can put dogs in the bed of a truck, but doing so in the winter is not an option for us.

The rest of what we wanted really aren't needs: an eight foot bed, and an auto trans. I'm starting to rethink both of those, as we could easily do what we need with a six-foot bed, and as most manual trannies will take more torque than most autos, I'm not averse to going for a good 'row'.

Erin has it; I don't plan to have the truck just for the move, I plan to have this truck 'forever, or until further notice'. Given that, I want to make sure it has the greatest longetivity possible. I can handle sheetmetal and structural work, and have worked on every system on a vehicle except an auto trans; since those are worked on by others, I'm sure I can do that, too. I'll be taking care of all maintenance and repair of the vehicle myself, so it's very important to me that it be reasonably simple to work on.

OntarioMan, Beeman: I'm not considering a gas truck because I not only plan to haul with this unit, but I plan to run biodiesel, whether grown by me or gleaned from local oil sources, and processed by me. I know that the future of internal combustion is finite, but that of gas is much shorter than that of diesel, at least as far as we can see it now. Also, I'll never run up against the limitations of a good diesel engine, hauling the loads I'm planning to do, but I may well overtax a similar-sized gas engine with them.

Neolady: At this juncture, about all we CAN do is make more trips with lighter loads. The downside to that option is the TIME; it takes us eight hours almost completely unloaded to go one way. Add a couple hours for the drag caused by a trailer, or even more if that trailer is loaded to the capacity of the Jeep. More trips that take longer (and use more fuel), vs. fewer trips at (or close to) the standard time. Considering not only the cost of fuel but the cost of our time, and the Cherokee is unceremoniously ruled out. We simply work it much harder than it was originally designed to handle.

Agmantoo: I'd considered the NPR-type trucks as well, I LOVE the stumpy ones like the 109" you noted, they're so CUTE! I wouldn't mind having one for a daily driver, but somehow I think Pony would want something with a little more creature comfort and good looks. Also, although they do come with crew cabs (but not extra cabs), they're quite expensive that way.

Quint: Dang, I'm sorry I missed out on that! If you (or anyone else) run into a deal like that, I'd love a heads-up!

Forerunner: As I mentioned briefly, this will be Pony's rig. I doubt she'd be amenable to making a run to the city or doing her work in a dump truck. I'd have to ask to be sure, but I'm pretty sure.

Fantasymaker: I had considered a van, but having driven a van, I don't like the limitation of vision. I'd considered getting a van and shortening the cab, and bolting on a truck bed, but that's a lot of work. Also, having driven a van, I know how "fun" they are to work on... I have the scars from such droll entertainment as changing plugs, or a water pump. It's a consideration, but it's WAY down on the list.

Thanks again to all of you for all your replies. Given this information, plus what I've researched, I think I've narrowed the field down to Ford and Dodge. Yes, there are some good reports of the Chevy to go with the bad ones, and one could say that one generally sees more bad press than good. But I have noted more bad press for Chevy/GM than for the other two, and less for Dodge than either of the other two. That said, my first choice would be for a Dodge, second would be Ford. Now, the search begins.

Did you know that Ford has made TWO F-350's for many years? There is the standard one and there is the comercial chassis. Its frame is a bit wider and heavyer than the regular one and its GVW is 11,000 pounds when the regular one is 10,000.
The only Auto availiable in them was the C-6. Mine, the one I got with 250.000 miles on it after it sat on the bottom of the river at Saint Louis for a week then lasted Another 200,000 before I sold it off.
Does anyone build a stronger auto than a C-6? Maybe allison?
Nice thing about the auto is when you use that tourque converter It really multiplies the gearing and will really let you walk some HEAVEY loads out of a hole.

Im not sure of your commute and travel plans but maybe one horse for the loads and another for the travel? Its pretty hard to find a solid truck that gets good MPG and hauls more than the jeep.

I agree that the deal Quint passed was CHERRY! So maybe something to get you by and then a long serch for another like it? LOL I am ETERNALLY looking for that kind of deal!

Yep another weekend puller. I used to have a truck and pulled a load almost every day. It was a GMC gas burner. The only thing is to get one with a manual transmstion (4 or 5 speed)or have the automatic transmision set for pulling a losd. It will jerk between gear but it will pull alot. Get a full size one that has a V-8 engine and you can pull just as much as the diesel engines and use less cheap gas. If you realy want to get a Diesel just wait and you can pick them up for nothing.

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Divorce. He's also moving and didn't want to take it with him.

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Have a 1993 Ford f350 4x4 with a 7.3 non turbo and a 5-speed 224,000 so far and still going strong.I choose to the IDI diesel instead of the power stroke because the older mechanical injection parts are so much cheaper and easier to repair.For example a set of 8 IDI injectors can be purchased for $200 which is about what one power stroke DI injector goes for.The E4OD is an expensive unit to rebuild
That being said I had an 85 F250 for 15 years and the truck never let me down.The TTB front axle is a solid unit just make sure the universal joints are tight.

'Did you know that Ford has made TWO F-350's for many years? There is the standard one and there is the comercial chassis. Its frame is a bit wider and heavyer than the regular one and its GVW is 11,000 pounds when the regular one is 10,000.
The only Auto availiable in them was the C-6. Mine, the one I got with 250.000 miles on it after it sat on the bottom of the river at Saint Louis for a week then lasted Another 200,000 before I sold it off."

Both of my trucks are E350s. One is a cutaway with a 16' box. The other is a regular van. The Allisons where tougher when the smallest ones they made were rated for 33,000 GVW. Now I don't know.

My Dodge with the Cummins diesel gets better mileage heavily loaded than the any of the 3/4 ton and 1 ton gassers do running empty and I have none of the maintence that the gas engines have. Simply change the oil and fuel filters and drive it. And I don't have to listen to a pathetically under powered V8 gasser struggling along at 5000 rpm trying to haul a load. I regularly pull a 28 foot gooseneck with 13000 pounds of tractor on it or 16 to 17 large round bales with no issues. The only gas engine equipped trucks that will handle that load are the 8.1 GM's and the V10 equipped trucks and you are looking at well below 10 mpg while towing. I get around 13-14 mpg when towing that heavy on the highway. And at 246,000 miles it runs just as good as it did when new with no oil usage what so ever. With my 4 horse slant load I get 16 mpg on the highway. 21 to 22 mpg running empty. The Cummins engines regularly go 500,000 miles with normal oil changes and such. I drove gassers for over 20 years before switching to the Cummins and I will never own another gas powered pickup for farm use. With nearly double the torque on hand compared to the gas powered rigs I cruise up hills in OD or drive at 2000 rpm that leave the gas powered rigs at 5000 rpm in 2nd and screaming the whole way.

Resurrecting an ANCIENT post here to finally lay it to rest:

Shortly after this thread, Pony! and I found a '96 F250 Powerstroke, 4x4, x-cab, 8-foot bed with a hide-away gooseneck ball, Class-5 2" receiver hitch under the rear bumper, with F-350 springs. We got it for $4k, I replaced the rear brakes and the clutch and flywheel assembly, and borrowed a 24' gooseneck horse trailer from Sometimes Paul (MullersLaneFarm) to move all our worldly goods here to MO. Since moving, I've had the ball joints and the fuel pump replaced and rebuilt the oil cooler, but she hauls tons of hay and manure without complaint.

Since then, only two issues remain: 1) a persistent fuel leak near the fuel pump despite the fact that we had the fuel pump and related lines replaced, and 2) a persistent oil leak on the driver's side, somewhere BELOW the valve cover and ABOVE the oil cooler. Huh? All I know is, I can smell oil burning on the left manifold as I drive, and see it dripping on the ground, but can't tell where it's coming from.

Anyway, I restarted this thread to thank all of you for your excellent input, I think we made a great choice!

Nick

Go to www.thedieselstop.com

I suppose there are other boards, but this is the one I've belonged to since we bought our '97 PSD, 8 years ago. In fact, we had a mysterious ailment just this summer that our Ford garage couldn't figure out.
But DH and the Diesel Stop did.

__________________
~*~Erin~*~
SAHM, ranch wife, sub and quilt shop proprietress
the Back Gate Country Quilt Shop

anything pre-98 with a cummins is good.. get a manual transmisson or your going to be getting a auto rebuilt.. all the fords have been good in the 6.9 and 7.3 diesels. the 7.3s have had some problems with people not useing the right coolant but that can be tested for.. and as far as the front end.. get a F350(solid front axle)

They all have their good and bad points. I have a 96 Dodge with the Cummins and currently have 250K on it. The problems with the auto tranny is over heating and that's the same problem with the Ford auto. If you buy a diesel with an auto tranny put a tranny temp gauge in so you can make sure it doesn't overheat. The Dodge Cummins should be good to 500K if taken care of and the at that mileage the head will probably need to be redone. The rest of the engine should last quite a bit longer than that.

Bobg

Their good trucks. The main thing to watch on the Powerstroke is to check the coolant. You can get test strips at NAPA and I assume other auto parts stores. The biggest problem with Powerstrokes is cavitation of the cylinder walls.

Bobg

I'm interested in what you found about durability. I know one towing service that broke the frame on theirs. Do any of them last as long as comparable American trucks?

All I know about it, is that my son, who is a pretty god mechanic, looked until he could buy a truck with a Duramax diesel. It's a great pickup and gets good gas mileage. I think it would pull an elephant straight up a tree. It doesn't even notice when it's got a heavy load behind it and it hasn't so much as hiccuped.

'course, it gets top quality fuss-with-the-baby care.

I drive a short bus with a T444 which is the same engine Ford sells as the Powerstroke 7.3 Odd tidbit Ford claims a 5000 mile oil change schedule but International only calls for an oil change every 10,000 miles. No idea why there's such a big difference.

Fuel leak: check the line under the engine, where it connects to the flex line over the cross member. Highly typical rust spot is either the elbow, or where it goes into the quick disconnect. Either get new lines, or like a lot of people have done, cut the lines, and connect with alcohol rated fuel line. With the switch to low sulfur diesel, many people have problems with fuel leaking from the fuel filter drain valve. If you have diesel in the V of the engine, thats probably where its coming from.

Don't know about the oil leak. The turbo's up there, and gets oil, so it might have a leak in the line. The truck also uses high pressure oil to actuate the injectors, so thats something to look at.

If the brake lines are original... check them NOW. It is very common to rust out at this age of truck. You might not have a problem since you're out of the rust/winter salt belt, but it's good to check.

www.thedieselstop.com is a gold mine of information, as others have said.

Waters comment on staying away from the truck: EO4D are know to be "not the best". For an automatic, I'd love an Alison, but then I wouldn't have the powerstroke. One thing they are famous for is puking ATF out the front seal if the fluid overheats. Trying to back up a hill with a 10K trailer in reverse, but not 4L, it will happen in under a minute. The solution is use 4L, and get a good transmission cooler.

Michael

Getting ready to sell/trade my Dodge truck.Have a few people interested,it is a 1998 24V 4x4,5speed,quad cab short bed.just over 215,000 miles.
One person is offering $7000,another wants to trade a 2005 MF 1428 4wd tractor.

Funny thing is,I couldn't GIVE my truck away a few years back.

Been pretty reliable,lift pump failed twice,took injection pump with it the second time.Otherwise a good truck.

Ohh,it also gets 20 mpg.

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