Dado Blades

farminghandyman · #21 01/21/08, 07:25 AM

If this is jsut one time thing,
you can jsut make two saw cuts for a lap joint, one with the board flat and then on edge and cut the lap out, cutting out the small piece that you want to remove. (works well on the edge)
some times quicker than setting up the dado head.

yes the dado head and a sacrificial fence is nice but not necessary,

and if the lap is deep or tall, one can make a series of cuts spaced about 1/8" apart and use a hand chisel to clean them up in a few seconds, (works well on the end of the board)

michiganfarmer · #22 01/21/08, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stonykill

make your own insert. For the sake of discussion, lets say that your insert is 1/2 inch thick. Take a piece of 1/2 inch stock, trace the outer diameter of your old insert, cut out the outer diameter of your new insert. Then is your insert is the screw down type, screw it down, after lowering the dado blade to the lowest point. Then turn on the saw and slowly raise your dado blade threw, creating a new insert.

If your insert doesn't screw down, you can usually run the fence over the end of the new insert, even if you need to attatch a sacrificial board to hold it down. And raise you blade thru that way.

Why spend any money when you have the tools at hand to make one?

there ya go. You have done that a time or two, havent you?

michiganfarmer · #23 01/21/08, 07:33 AM

I sharpen stack dado sets for $48

YuccaFlatsRanch · #24 01/21/08, 11:01 AM

"If this is just one time thing, you can just make two saw cuts for a lap joint, one with the board flat and then on edge and cut the lap out, cutting out the small piece that you want to remove. (works well on the edge) some times quicker than setting up the dado head."

Unfortunately the 6" x 6" lap is about 6 inches in from the end of the board. That out 6 inches has a decorative southwestern "step down to a point". The mirrors I am putting up go into a corner so each of the frame pieces will only have 3 sides so the mirrors can meet in the corner. I am doing lap joints so I can mount the bottom board first and it will hold up the mirror (mirror size 30" by 64" each mirror). Then the tops and the sides will be installed. The bottoms and the sides/tops will all be screwed into studs and the holes covered with large decorative Tacks (Clavos) of about 1 1/2" diameter.

YuccaFlatsRanch · #25 01/21/08, 11:05 AM

What purpose does the insert that surrounds the blade serve?? The current insert has an opening of 9/16th inch. I will want to run the dado blade at 3/4 if possible. Can I just make the hole in the insert I have wider and if so how much wider than the 3/4 is needed. Once I make it wider will it still be usable with the regular saw blade??

TNHermit · #26 01/21/08, 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by YuccaFlatsRanch

What purpose does the insert that surrounds the blade serve?? The current insert has an opening of 9/16th inch. I will want to run the dado blade at 3/4 if possible. Can I just make the hole in the insert I have wider and if so how much wider than the 3/4 is needed. Once I make it wider will it still be usable with the regular saw blade??

Ideally the insert is suppose to help stop splintering on the bottom of the cut as the teeth head down. Most people when doing fine work will put in a zero clearance insert. Which is what you would have if yo made your own.. The insert that comes with most saws is wide enough so that if you tilt the blade 45 degree it won't hit the insert. So its a compromise deal. If you want clean cuts on the bottom I would make one for your dado.
The other thing is that if your insert is to wide and you saw something narrow it can get caught between the blade and the insert trying to get through the hole (bind up)and raise a bunch of cain. tear up the blade and throw things around at the worst,