Ideas for heat loss around windows?

Windy_jem · #21 01/17/08, 10:50 PM

They have seal and peel off caulk for windows....seal them up for the winter and peel it off for the summer. Cheap and simple

(make SURE it's the peel off kind!!)

Columbia,SC. · #22 01/17/08, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windy in Kansas

Do yourself a favor--pull off the storm window then the outside trim around the window using extreme care not to damage it.

Once the window frame is exposed you can see just how little insulation there is if any at all. If you can get by without windows weights (should your windows use them), remove them a foam fill the cavities and all around the window.

Reapply the trim with the proper nails, fill the holes, and then reinstall the storm windows. A couple of old ice picks through the screw holes work well to hold it in its proper place until the first screws hold it.
This can be done on a nice day in winter if supplies are purchased in advance.
Many cans of foam use moisture in the air to activate it. I found that spraying the wood with water made quite a difference in the foam expanding time.

You will also find a great noise reduction as a result in addition to sealing out the cold air.

One of these devices should allow you to remove window weights and still hold the windows up.
http://www.doityourself.com/invt/8071813
http://www.unique-balance.com/buy.html
http://www.mightonproducts.com/catal...bc52557e35c5b6

With all due respect, wouldn't be easier to remove the inside molding after cutting around it with a sheetrock knife so as not to damage the paint on the walls?
You could 'see the same thing'. Plus a lot less work. If you did it from the inside you could do it in rain/snow or whatever and in a dry controlled workplace.
You still need to caulk the outside of the (after removing the storm window) wood frame I.E. brick molding but you can seal around the frame ( with spray foam )from inside the house around the windows. This is not a rookie job but not a hard job either.
P.S. Windy in Kansas, that is a great tip about the water with the spray foam, I did not know about it! Thanks.

Windy in Kansas · #23 01/18/08, 07:11 AM

Well Columbia, SC. you are absolutely correct unless one would have problems getting the correct amount of foam under the sill. If removing window weights, it might be easier to take them out from the outside. Mine came out between the window frame and the siding so saved removing the pocket cover.

As messy as I am when using canned foam I do however think that I will continue to work from the outside. Never have used it yet, even when trying to use extreme care, that I didn't get it on something that I wasn't supposed to. It often expands out the nozzle and drips.

On my house special attention was needed where steel siding was applied over the old. You couldn't get to that area from the inside.

I sure don't see why your idea wouldn't work better for most folk and get the job done anytime. Thanks for reminding us/me that there is usually more than one way to accomplish a task. As they say, two heads are better than one.

**highlands** · #24 01/18/08, 04:24 PM

The plastic film works great. We did it on the inside and the outside of our old farm house. For the outside we used wooden battens around the edges. Most of the windows we don't open in the summer - we live in the mountains of northern Vermont so it is rather cool year round. Ventilation is by one window and the doors. Do shrink the film good and tight. Otherwise it won't last. Also keep cats away from the window sills - they tear it up right fast.

I also have made my own windows by layering glass on the outside and then up to four layers of the shrink film (Tedlar, etc) spaced about 1/4" to 1/2" apart between the glass. Even when it gets -45°F the inner window surface stays warm and frost free unlike even the best Marvin or other fancy windows. An inexpensive way to make one's own super windows. That's what we're doing on our tiny cottage.

Cheers

-Walter
Sugar Mountain Farm
in the mountains of Vermont
http://SugarMtnFarm.com/blog/
http://HollyGraphicArt.com/
http://NoNAIS.org

Columbia,SC. · #25 01/18/08, 11:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Windy in Kansas

Well Columbia, SC. you are absolutely correct unless one would have problems getting the correct amount of foam under the sill. If removing window weights, it might be easier to take them out from the outside. Mine came out between the window frame and the siding so saved removing the pocket cover.

As messy as I am when using canned foam I do however think that I will continue to work from the outside. Never have used it yet, even when trying to use extreme care, that I didn't get it on something that I wasn't supposed to. It often expands out the nozzle and drips.

On my house special attention was needed where steel siding was applied over the old. You couldn't get to that area from the inside.

I sure don't see why your idea wouldn't work better for most folk and get the job done anytime. Thanks for reminding us/me that there is usually more than one way to accomplish a task. As they say, two heads are better than one.

you are right about some siding being harder to get around, and I also forgot to recomend laying down LOTS of tarps to help with the overflow of that stuff!!! anyone have any ideas what it takes to get it off your hands?

Sher · #26 01/18/08, 11:26 PM

I don't know if this article will help or not. But if you are just wanting to slow up the drafts til you can replace windows..maybe it will give you some cheap tips. Good luck!

RoseGarden · #27 01/18/08, 11:35 PM

I've been inspired by this thread to finally do something about my single pane windows.

I went to Lowe's today and bought the shrink film, 'MD' brand, a package says it will do 5 average windows. My windows are odd sized so I don't know how many one pkg. will do. The package is 62"x210". Comes with a roll of clear two sided tape. This package cost $8.56, and a small package for a 42"x60" window was only $1.98. This is pretty cheap, if it actually does any good. We shall see.

I'm working on my third window, 47"x50", each window measures the same.

oberhaslikid · #28 01/19/08, 06:26 AM

I used the big bubble wrap from my work I brought 2x2 foot pieces home that was gonna be thrown away and used clear packing tape to tape 2 pieces together. Then stapeled to the inside frame of all windows we dont look out any way.The window has a mini blind and curtain which is added insulation.I can tell the difference with the bubble wrap up.I am gonna leave it up all year I think.When you go out side you really cant tell I have it up unless you press your nose to the glass.
I want to see if it helps with the central air.I saw where someone on here did this last year and thought I would try it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixelphotograph

i use bubble wrap as well.
can buy it from places like home depot or lowes or staples or office depot
Or if you get alot of packages sometimes theres enough in there.
LOL
Works good lets light in and keeps wind out.

Scrounger · #29 01/19/08, 06:29 AM

Be careful with ANY expanding foam! Even the "Non-expanding" foam made for window WILL expand and could cause warping of the frame, especially older windows. Also - if you have lots of humidity in your home, and live in a cold climate, be careful of putting the foam insulation baord against the window. The windows are the natural place condensation occurs and may freeze to the glass (seen this dozens of times) and damage the windows. If you have heavy drapes, the same thing can occur. The condensation must have a route to escape. Durring the day, open the drapes for a few hours to help dissipate the moisture from behind the windows.

A temp fix would be the plastic, the best way to fix it is to remove the interior trim and put batt insulation into the cavity and caulk the outside. Remember, silicone caulk is generally not paintable. It also does not stick well to itself. You will probably need to remove the old stuff first. It CAN be done on a cold day, but YOU won't want to be out there.

Windy in Kansas · #30 01/19/08, 06:43 AM

Scrounger you are certainly correct about the danger of foam warping if not used correctly. I did a total of three foam sessions per window, that is allowing a small amount to expand to its fullest, then after that set up I began void filling, and finally finished up by filling any area that was not completely filled.

I then cut the overage flush before reinstalling the trim.

This spring I am going to removed all of the trim from each window and replace it with new because it is weathered so badly. I plan to biscuit join the trim together and pre-paint it before installation with sufficient caulking. I know that the windows should be replaced but I don't plan on living in this house much longer so thought foaming a better option with less expense.

crobar · #31 01/21/08, 01:09 PM

if you spray water on the window glass, bubble wrap will cling to the glass. It lets in plenty of light, although can't see out very well. It won't stop air leaks, but it does insulate the glass.

susieM · #32 01/21/08, 06:56 PM

I put two layers on the windows where I don't want to see the neighbors.

jerzeygurl · #33 01/22/08, 11:40 AM

quilts

mom made window sized quilts for the windows

you can always hang them behind curtains, if you dont want to look at them.

hang them with a saftey pin at each corner and along top as necesary, hang the pins over nails. You could also run a curtain rod through the edge binding OR make tab tops and sew to it.