How hot is your woostove/stovepipe??

**highlands** · #21 01/14/08, 07:01 PM

Base of the pipe at the wood stove is hot as balled spit. (Spit there and it balls up and bounces). Probably about 400 degrees.

22 feet away at the exit of the house it is warm to the touch with a bare hand.

No creosote build up or moisture condensation inside the pipe because it is a complete burn. Good wood, proper oxygen, long path and turbulance are all important.

Cheers

-Walter
Sugar Mountain Farm
in the mountains of Vermont
http://SugarMtnFarm.com/blog/
http://HollyGraphicArt.com/
http://NoNAIS.org

**Cabin Fever** · #22 01/15/08, 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by highlands

No creosote build up or moisture condensation inside the pipe because it is a complete burn. Good wood, proper oxygen, long path and turbulance are all important.....

FYI. The process of combustion produces moisture. In other words, your firewood could be completely dry (0% moisture) and there would still be moisture in your flue gases that could potentially condense and promote creosote formation.

Sparticle · #23 01/15/08, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Quint

Hotter than the surface of the sun. I have to surround mine with a magnetic field in order to contain the heat and pressure. If I inject Lithium 6-Deuteride into the magnetic field I can actually initiate a thermonuclear reaction.

Ours runs right around 300. Hotter than that and it's too hot in here.

**highlands** · #24 01/15/08, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabin Fever

FYI. The process of combustion produces moisture. In other words, your firewood could be completely dry (0% moisture) and there would still be moisture in your flue gases that could potentially condense and promote creosote formation.

FYI. The inside of the pipe is completely dry and has no creosote. Reality.

raymilosh · #25 01/15/08, 01:28 PM

Let's see. My magnetic temg gage says about 200 degrees F.
I know it leads to creosote formation. I sweep the chimney as necessary and collect the creosote. It is good for preserving wood (creosote posts are made by dissolving creosote and painting it on wood. It is naturally poisonous, so anytthing that tries to eat the wood dies. It is also a good insecticide.
Stealing heat from the chimney will lead to creosote formation and will lead to the creation of hot water. Everything is a tradeoff, I spoze.

Another possibility...I did this in a neighbor's house and it is working fine. I made a water jacket out of 3/4 inch black steel pipe shaped like this:
______________________
______________________|
|_____________________

and installed it in the firebox and drilled holes out the back and hooked it to copper pipes leading up to a water heater tank. I followed all the ideas and cautions from the Lehman's book "Hot Water from Your Woodstove."

That solves the creosote problem and gets the water closer to the fire. The system I built will make 40 gallons of scalding hot water within a few hours of a hot fire and employs no moving parts and has never overheated it to the point the pressure relief valve opened even thoough the woodstove is used for heating the whole house.
If interested to see more, PM me and I'll take some pictures and send them to you.
Ray

**Cabin Fever** · #26 01/15/08, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by highlands

FYI. The inside of the pipe is completely dry and has no creosote. Reality.

Good for you!

I hope the rest of you keep sweeping your chimneys on a periodic basis especially if you practice damped down burns at night, burn less than seasoned wood, and/or where much of your chimney is out of doors.

ET1 SS · #27 01/15/08, 02:11 PM

Last year I dis-assembled our stove-pipe, and cleaned it.

Being a straight vertical run of only four lengths of pipe, it was very easy to do.

It is my intention to continue doing this once each summer, for as long as we use this stove.

We burn just about anything and everything in our stove. And I was pleasantly surprized to find very little build up of any creosote or ash. Most of it was in our upper chamber, I think that some may have formed in the stove-pipe and then fell down into the upper chamber.

In either case, it was fairly simple to do. and much less of a mess than I had expected.

**Ross** · #28 01/15/08, 02:38 PM

Cabin is bang on combustion produces water vapour, if you haven't got condensation in a cool chimney then great, you probably have good currential drafting. Lucky you.

**highlands** · #29 01/15/08, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ross

Cabin is bang on combustion produces water vapour, if you haven't got condensation in a cool chimney then great, you probably have good currential drafting. Lucky you.

It isn't luck. It's physics. Aim for it. I'm not being facetious. I'm serious. Design it to work. There are reasons why stoves work or don't work. Study them. Understand what makes it work. What makes it fail.

Chance favors the prepared mind. -Louis Pasteur