Post Your Chainsaw Recommendations Here

ECHO ECHO ECHO Can't say enough about these saws. Performance is better than anything I have ever seen. My brother came up to the farm with his Rancher 55. I was using my little Echo 12" limbing saw...he couldn't I repeat couldn't keep up with me. I was ripping through almost 50% faster. His saw had mabe 20 hrs on it, mine is over 6 yrs old, putting up at least 4 cord a year. ECHO. Still starts on the third pull every time. ECHO! Mike

Another vote for the Swedish made Husky. mines a 55 which I've had for about 12 years now, love it. If you"re thinking a new saw is going to relieve you of chain adjusting you may be in for a disappointment though. Any saw is going to require fairly frequent chain adjustment, especially when the chain is new.

Stihl or Husqvarna. I am using a Stihl 038 24" bar for felling and it is dependable. I use a Stihl 310 for limbing but have had alot of problems with it being hard to start after it's warmed up, it was bought the first year they came out with that #. Lesson: Don't buy the first model of any thing.
I have a Husqvarna trimmer/polesaw for keeping field edges clear and I'm very pleased with it. As far as continually having to adjust the chain, try sharpening more often, before you think it needs it.

Have used a Stihl Farmboss with no trouble. Get at least a mid-grade if you buy the Stihl. Tried a cheap big box store saw - chain bar oil reservoir was leaking after 5 minutes of use. Stihl just finished cutting 4 to 5 cords of wood this past season with no trouble.

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

My Stihl MS290 is a great saw. I have had it for 3 years now and I cut about 12 cord a year plus cleaning up new pasture for myself and a friend. I have the 20" bar and it works great. Now, mind you, my friend tried using the saw and said it stunk, but I wonder how much he was influenced by the size, as it is larger than the one he is used to. I did tree work for a few years, mostly storm cleanup and residential drops, and we always used Husqvarna (sp?) and I loved them, but were hard to start some days. My Stihl starts on about the 3rd or 4th try. Not bad for a large saw. This saw can overheat if pushed too hard, so that is a thought. As an alumni of the Stihl Maine Lumberjack show, we used all Stihl in the show and that was all we we allowed to use due to corporate sponshorship. The old 44 was a great saw but the smaller ones I didn't care for. Just my 2 cents

mark

I have a husky 55 rancher also, it has been a workhorse and almost starts its self!
I paid $350 for it and I also have 2 extra chains,, I hit the Ozark rocks now and then.
This saw is almost 4 yeas old and I cut alot here around the homestead. It came from Lowes but it was made in SVedon! LOL

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Spend your money on a quality sawthe first time and you won't be sorry. Remember the saying 'Quality only hurts once" , that being said I own Husky, Stihl, and the old Poulan saws. The oldest is a early '60s 041 farm boss with a 16" bow that starts on the 3rd pull almost every time. The Husky saws are the 340, 350, and a 372xp. the smaller ones came from Lowe's at 1/2 price because people put the chains on backwards- their ignorance was my gain. Haven't had any problems with them if I do my part. Your milage may vary.

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I have a stihl 026. It's a little smaller than the 029/farmboss but has more metal parts in it and weighs a couple ounces more with like a tenth of a cc loss in power.
I believe this makes all the difference.
Been to the shop once because I left gas in it all winter and it needed a new filter after that stupidity.
Starts on the third pull every time when cold. Has for about 10 years.
It's cut at least 30 cord. Three cord just this last month.

Sharp chain is the most important part of cutting regardless of the saw maker. I have four chains that I rotate out.
I have never used a chain that didn't stretch when it was new. I've always had to retighten my chain on any saw that I have ever used, but usually only once.

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Having a deep emotional conversation with my quilted buddy..........

I didn't bother to read all of these post because there were so many, so I apologise if this has already been said. I have been using chainsaws for the last 15 years on practically a weekly (sometimes daily) basis, so have gone through quite a few. I've owned 3 different Poulans; one McCullough; two Husqvarnas; an electric Poulan (for brush work around the yard) and a Stihl - among others. One little Poulan that cost less than $80 brand new, and which I expected to junk in a month, actually lasted and worked well for over 4 years - until every single screw fell out and the thing was held together with baling wire! A Husqvarna I paid $300+ for died in a week and had to be replaced! It really depends upon the manufacturer; the model; the maintenance; and the use to which it is put. Others have listed all those points so i really don't need to go into them further.

However, there are some little things you might want to know something about - a few of the minor glitches and idiosyncracies of the different saws that can make using them a pleasant experience, or one that will drive you to throw it off a bridge next chance you get. I'll list a few...

- Look at the gas and oil caps - if they are plastic, check to see whether they can be finger tightened and removed. If they have a rubbery feel or have slots to use a screw driver for opening when they get too tight, DON"T buy it! If you use a saw hard all day (like for major tree removal or cutting lots of firewood) you will be opening and shutting those many times an hour. There is nothing more annoying than having to go find a pair of pliers or other tool to get the %^($#*#@**!!! cap off every time you need to refill the gas tank! Believe me - I know! I once nearly chucked a brand new Husqvarna because I was so mad after nearly demolishing the stupid, flimsy little rubberized gas cap that would not come off for love or money. The thing was so pliable that you could turn the knob half way around and break it off before it would budge in the opening. Other caps are recessed so you can't even get hold of them! My all time favorite is on a Stilh - they are the easiest on & off caps I've ever seen. Just be sure to take them off and put them back on a few times while still in the store, so you can get an idea of what you will be in for in the field. If you can't get the darned caps off you can't cut wood!

- Get a saw with a chain adjustment that does not require you to reach across to the inside of the bar (next to the piping hot carburetor) to adjust it with a screw driver. After you've done this a few times, you'll understand why.

- Look for a saw that allows you to adjust idle settings without taking off the top. (And that doesn't require a wire-thin and extra long - impossible to find - screwdriver to do it!)

- Look for a saw that allows the air filter to be changed or cleaned by twisting a knob on the cover rather than unbolting part of the cover. And while you're at it - make sure you get one with a foam filter. Those fancy plastic, flocked filters are hard to clean, wear out almost immediately, and cost a fortune to replace. The foam ones are easy to clean with soap and water and cost almost nothing. Heck - you can even make them yourself from a sheet of cheap foam.)

- Get a saw that can be serviced using a scrench and only a scrench. If every bolt or screw looks a bit different, and if you can't remove the spark plug or the bar nuts without reaching for another tool, don't buy it. When you are already carting gas, oil and a saw, you don't need to be hauling around a toolbox just to open the darn thing. Remember that little Poulan I said was held together with baling wire? That's because all the screws and bolts were different sizes and when they fell out or got lost, I could never find replacements that would fit!)

- Last of all, don't buy more saw than you need. I know it looks more macho to have a great big 24" bar (or bigger) on your saw, but if your trees are all under 12" in diameter its at least twice as much saw as you need. Sure if you live in the redwood forests, go ahead and get one of the big guys, but if you are cutting in average woods and doing more than a couple of hours work in a day, go for the lightest and smallest saw that will do the job. The reason is simple: cutting wood is hard work that does not need to be made harder by lugging around a monster machine all day. At the end of a long day, your muscles will thank you.

Good luck!

I can chime in here. Just two months ago I went on a search for my first chainsaw. I moved to a place with 5 acres and was needing both cut firewood, and, there was a HUGE 36" diameter post oak tree truck that had blown over in a storm that had been on the ground for several years. So, is it very seasoned and very hard.

I was a stupid consumer at first, as I went to Lowes, and grabbed one off the shelf. It was a Poulon wild thing with an 18" bar for $130. I brought it home, got it running and started to use it. It was JUNK! It would not stay running and the pull rope kept getting hung out. I had to use a thin screwdriver to stick in the case to spin the plastic reel the rope was on to get it to unhang. The saw was complete garbage. I boxed it back up and returned it to Lowes the next day.

Now having experienced what a BAD chainsaw was like, I decied I wanted a very good chainsaw. I found a Stihl dealer locally and tried out the different models he had. I really wanted one of the 260's but it was a bit too much for me price wise. So, I settled on a 290 Farm Boss with 18" bar for $360. I got it home, started it up and just LOVED it. It ran so smooth and you could just feel the power in your hand. I started to cut up the near petrified post oak and it was butting through that huge log like it was butter. I got it cut into 3 foot section in a matter of about 30 minutes. It never hesitated or even tried to idle down or die out on me. Then, I went to start another cut and it would not cut the wood. Apparently, the chain had dulled out. I looked through the wood I had cut for anything I might have hit but did not find anything. Not sure if it nicked some metal in the wood or the well seasoned oak just dulled it that fast. So, it went back to the dealer and is being sharpened now. Sharpening there costs $7. But, even though that happened, I still love the saw.

I am very happy with the Stihl. The only thing I regret, is buying it new. I just saw an ad on the local craigslist for a good running Stihl 260 with a dull chain for $225. Kicking myself now.

So, to sum it up, this is my experience my experience. With a sharp chain, the Stihl 290 Farm Boss will breeze through the hardest of seasoned hardwood. With a sharp chain, the Poulon Wild thing is a piece of junk which should be used as a boat anchor.

I bought a Sachs-Dolmar from our local Co-op 20 years ago. During that time I ran over it with the truck and used it every year without further incident. It was running as strong as ever when a flat spring broke for one of the 'dogs' on the recoil starter mechanism and then the good news....."No springs to be had. Sachs-Dolmar got bought out by__________ and there are no replacement parts." ?????????????

I went back to using my father-in-law's "old" 25 year old Homelite.

I would buy another Sachs-Dolmar in a heartbeat...if they were still building them.

There is no doubt that Huskys, Stihls, and Jonsereds are the cadillics of the woodcutting industry. You should always try to get one aimed for the professional user, regardless of size, because it will have better quality components than one designed for the mass consumer market.

Makita bought them.


They are still building them. ... Click the link.
Dolmar

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Thanks!! Sammy.
I found a dealer w/parts about 30 miles from here....and he had the spring.
Made me a 'happy camper'.

My poulan gave up the ghost, or rather I got tired of messing with it. New out of the box it would vaporlock if the outside time was above about 50F. Poulan wouldn't do anything about it, but I kept using the saw in the winter, and beat my $140 out of it. Constantly had to adjust the chain, could not kill it once it was started for fear of it not starting again, but still cut quite a few cords of wood over the past few years with it.

Lately I have been building corners for some fencing, and got tired of fooling with the saw, as that the vapor locking problem seems to be getting worse. So, I threw it into the truck, took my skinny wallet and went to the store. I hate having to use a brand new saw to cut telephone poles, so I checked out the pawn shops first. Nothing decent there, at least for a decent price, so I went into Lowes.

Ended up buying a Husqvarna 142. This is one of the few times I was not glad to see "Made in the USA," but it was the only decent saw that I could afford at the moment. The other Two Husqvarna's there were made in Sweden though. I've owned other Husqvarnas in the past, and I really liked the 55 that I used to have, but I have to admit this new USA made 142 is not anywhere on the same level of quality. However, it is a better saw than the last few poulans I have used, and I do think it is worth the $199 I paid for it. I've abused it cutting telephone poles, and I've cut almost a cord of wood with it, and I do not have any regrets buying it... for what I paid for it. It starts easy, and now that the chain has stretched I've not had to do much adjustment to it. After this oak and telephone pole work I should probably take a file to it; though it seems to be holding an edge pretty good. Once I can get a couple more chains I can start a rotation.

I bought a Poulan Pro with a 16" bar because it was all the money I had to spend at the time.
Never again. It wants to give me a fit getting it started now and I have been super careful about the fuel/oil being clean and new and all.

I worked as a small engine mechanic at a Rental Store, for a few months way back and he had several different brands of chain saws. I had to tune up everyone of them he had when they came back in except the 2 Stihl's he had.
I forget who said it now but someone said make sure it is made in the country of origin and he's right.
I have used a Stihl and also a Husqvarna right much and never had a seconds problem with them and then I used a Stihl that was made in another country (I forget which country now but it seems like it was Japan but don't hold me to it) and I didn't feel like cutting any wood by the time I got it cranked. Especially if it was cold.
As far as I am concerned you can't beat a good Stihl, but I know several retired now, loggers that would only have a husqvarna. Someone said buy one of these from the closest dealer and that makes since too.

JMHO
Dennis

The Sachs-Dolmar is fixed. Cuts as good as ever for less, much less than a new "anything".

Thanks again to Sammy.

I tend the farm myself.I purchased a stihl with their nifty easy start feature.I can just walk out to the barn.Grab my stihl,pull the starter rope and it fires right up.Everytime!
Not sure if thats a plus for everyone but it is for me!

I have used and owned all types. To me the saw BETTER start by the second pull.

Now we only use and own STIHL. I have a small fire wood company that sells fire wood all year long. We sold 800 full cords last year. The guys that work and handle all the wood. Are not easy on saws. Or trucks.

I used to just use cheap pouland and craftsmen saws. Never seen the value to buy a expensive saw.

We we tried alot of differant brands. A sales rep from STIHL stopped by one day and left a 36 inch saw for us to try out.

That was all it took. He stopped back by the next week and sold us 14 saws for 8k.
Most are large as they are what mont on our wood processor. Some small saws under 20". 1 pull every time.

They are just ---- good saws.

Red Max makes a good saw and is affordable.

Husqavana Makes a dang great saw.