buying a tractor?

a couple posts mentioned this. why would you not use a 4wd when making hay?

The only time I engage 4x4 is when I need it. In our neck of the woods, the hay fields are usually level (probably terraced too), and for typical hay work (cutting/making wind rows/baling) engaging the front wheels would not be needed. If the field is wet/slippery, it's doubtful you'll be haying.

Those ag tires do a great job of tearing up sod. You end up tearing up the hayfield twice as much. I'm not sure its the 4wd as much as the ag tires on all four wheels.

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Brad Bachelor
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"Loving an old bachelor is always a no-win situation, and you come to terms with that early on, or you go away.”
-- Jean Harris

..............If you buy a New Kubota , you won't have to worry about parts !! , fordy

I'd hire the haying out. And buy yourself a great little "hobby farm" tractor. We have 60 acres, and just took delivery of a 48hp John Deere. We just came back from 2 weeks of working on our land, and really put it to use. The grapple on the front end loader was totally awesome!

I'm a huge fan of the hydro engines, as I do most of the tractor work. A front end loader is my favorite tool, so many uses for it!

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http://tinksquared.com

I'd stay away from any 8N 2N 9N NAA or any small ford. An 801 would be OK. But if you're gonna bale you need power and live PTO so the small fords are out.
We baled with a JD A and B and never went through so many shear pins. Mom was not very good with the hand clutch on the old JDs. Which is something that takes some getting used to.

Being cheap I'd say that 75-90 HP is a bit much. We farmed 230 acres with nothing bigger than 60 or so unless it was too muddy to drag the chopper and chopper box around then we rented a 108 HP Case.
and 4WD is a bit of overkill in most situations especially if you plan to just make hay and can get by with frost seeding your fields instead of working them up with tillage equipment.
Power steering is a must if you want a loader.

I'd look for
IH-460, 560, or newer
JD- 720, 730, (older 2 cylinder hand clutch but live power on the pto) 2510, or newer
Case- 800, 830, or newer
Ford- 801 or newer stay away from the SelectOSpeed transmission, I have heard parts are a problem for those.
Allis- WD45, D17, 170 or newer.

I'd go diesel before gas, usually cheaper to run.

Newer foreign stuff like Leyland, Same, and Belarus are OK but you need to know if there are dealers with parts available near you.

A good 9 or 12 foot haybine, rake and a decent square baler will work fine behind all of those with no worries about power.
If you're gonna round bale this list is not applicable.

If the budget permits I would suggest that you purchase a late 70s or newer 2 wheel drive, familiar named USA based, tractor in the 70 to 100 HP range. I would want the working clock to have not more than 3000 hours on it. If I was allergic to insect stings, had any respiratory problems and intolerant to heat I would get a cab for the grounds maintenance tasks in the summer.

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Agmantoo
If they can do it,
you know you can!

For the same reason you don't use 4wd in your pickup on nice roads, it is not needed.



mwtslf23, Get a New Holland baler for what ever tractor you decide to go with.

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Please Put Your Location In Your Profile ... TY

Or if your just old and the ol straw hat isn't cooling like it used too. My neighbor pulled up on his Kubota with cab etc..... He opened tha cab and a cool wind rushed over my grungy clothes. Knocked the hay chaff right off me.

Hmmmmm... he says he can walk into his house too and the first words out of his wifes mouth don't even have the word stink or shower in em. I'll tell ya, I was raised not to covet my neighbors things but............

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Brad Bachelor
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"Loving an old bachelor is always a no-win situation, and you come to terms with that early on, or you go away.”
-- Jean Harris

The front wheels of a 4wd tractor spin 3-10% faster than the rear tires. Has to be that way or they bind up....

That slippage on alfalfa or grass just adds extra stress to your crop.

You should never need all that extra traction on a sod or alfalfa field - tractor needs to be heavy enough to handle the weight of the baler anyhow, should have all the traction you need on just the rear axle.

4wd is for heavy tillage, or a large planter (16-36 row notill which is doing a lot of tillage....) or for loader work.

The big 3x4 foot square balers do need 4wd - those are some heavy pullers....

--->Paul

I'm using a Farmal H, sickle bar mower, side delivery rake and an Oliver 520 small square baler. It works but that said, I'd like to move up. I've got about $1500 in the set up.

On a wet year like this the damage these rigs are doing to hay fields is incredible.

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Do not meddle in the affairs of Dragons, for you are crunchy and good with ketchup........

My setup sounds similar except I had a Ford 532 until about two weeks ago. Broke two parts and watched the rain soak the windrow 5 days straight. Kept flipping it with the rake.

Finally after being told no one had parts anymore for the 532 and being chased off porches by dogs trying to find the owners of fencerow parts balers, I bit THE bullet and bought a brand spanking new inline square baler.

It never missed a tie and I could shift to L-3 to run it (Compared to L-1). Man was it great. I think I'll be happy with it.....at least until the first payment needs to get mailed.

I don't mind the sickle or the side delivery rake one bit

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Brad Bachelor
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"Loving an old bachelor is always a no-win situation, and you come to terms with that early on, or you go away.”
-- Jean Harris