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  #21  
Old 01/31/07, 08:18 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,495
Quote:
Originally Posted by TechGuy

FWIW: The dangers of Asbestos are over blown. The people that got sick were workers that handled unprocessed fibers every working day for years. A simple filter when working with it would have prevent the majority from ever getting sick, but back in the day no one bother to think about it protecting their lungs.
Tell that to the many sick people in Libby MT who never worked in asbestos mining.
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  #22  
Old 01/31/07, 10:51 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Eastern Washington
Posts: 415
insulation

We used it in this old house (1906) several years ago when the local energy company was giving rebates for updating old houses. The house had no insulation to speak of so they were using the blown in insulation, after drilling the holes and starting to fill them. The company was beginning to wonder why they were going through so much product and not getting wall filled............until we walked into the kitchen and opened the cupboards!!! When we opened them they were full of insulation! Seems the inside of the house had as many air leaks as the outside did!! They were so embarressed and insisted on cleaning our cupboards!! We still occasionally have a bit of cellose fiber puff out of the upper cupboards.....but I think we have finally got most of the leaks sealed. This old house is very sturdy but it still isn't real energy efficent!
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  #23  
Old 01/31/07, 11:29 PM
TNHermit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: East Tenn.
Posts: 10,131
IF you have new construction the cellulose will be sprayed in the cavities before drywall. thats what the glue is for. They spray the wall and then come bak with a machine that cuts it flush with the wall. No voids or any of that other stuff.

Most people who put it in old houses do it wrong. They try and blow from the top hole. it should be blown from the bottom hole till it comes out the top. And a good installer will remove a peice of siding and drill the hole, fill, replace this siding

As far as rewireing I don't think that should be a problem. A decent electricain with a fish wire should be able to go right threw it.
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Last edited by TNHermit; 01/31/07 at 11:32 PM.
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  #24  
Old 02/01/07, 09:53 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
If the construction is new, Home Depot online has a plastic netting you can order, you staple it to the studs, blow the cellulose behind it before you nail on drywall. I ordered 2 rolls, haven't got to the project yet.
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  #25  
Old 02/01/07, 10:00 AM
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 135
If the construction is new, Home Depot online has a plastic netting you can order, you staple it to the studs, blow the cellulose behind it before you nail on drywall. I ordered 2 rolls, haven't got to the project yet. If you are a do it yourself type, you might consider that. Would seem to me that you would be able to see all wall was insulated. I like cellose.
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  #26  
Old 02/01/07, 07:55 PM
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,495
Hi,

This is a pretty cost effective way to get a high R value wall with blown in cellulose that eliminates the thermal bridging that takes down the R value on regular stud walls:

http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects...MooneyWall.htm

and, the similar:
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects.../GSNotes01.htm

The actual R value of a wall framed with 2X6's and insulated with R19 insulation is only about R15 because the studs have a relatively low R value, and take down the average. These two wall constructions get rid of the bridging by not having a continuous wood path from the outside to inside.
With 2X6 studs and 2X2 straping, you should get close to an honest R26 with this method.

Gary
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