A heads up for those looking for a heater.

Westwood · #21 01/16/07, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SherrieC

does anybody out there know if there is a wood stove of any kind that an insurance company would let me install? I hesitate to contact my insurance comp. because I don't want to get them digging around. We had a wood burner and a wood cook stove in our old home that's how we heated and cooked. It burnt down in 2000{not wood stove related!,} and we had all these animals to tend to and were renting 25 mins away, so we put in a double wide or "modular" as they call them or "Glorified trailer" if you ask me. It is on a full basement, I hate this feeling of Helplessness in this home. We have no way to heat or draw water without the electric. in our old home it was set up for non-electric living, of course we installed elec, and runing water. When the power went out all weekend it was so quiet, and what did we care we had heat & water. I'm inclined to Hide one in the basement if we aren't allowed to have one. Complete with heat shields of course.

Insurance? What's that? . . . . .

oz in SC · #22 01/16/07, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by marvella

please pay attention when people are telling you that it has to be loaded frequently. it is NOT an airtight stove and therefore will use tremendous amounts of wood to sort of keep you warm. it is probably not intended to be used as a primary heat source, but will probably be ok for a shop or some small outbuilding.

Our 'papa bear'(or mama,not really sure..)had to be loaded frequently too when we used it.

We bought one and will pick it up this weekend.

HermitJohn · #23 01/17/07, 08:04 AM

Each to their own, but my three cents says get a used airtight over a new EPA-exempt non-airtight. A non-airtight simply means you have to regulate temperature by how much fuel you put in the stove. You then babysit it and throw in another piece of wood ever so often. An airtight with a bi-metallic spring auto draft does the work for you.

And if you dont carry house insurance, just make your own airtight stove out of a thick wall steel pressure tank or something.

Bruce in NE · #24 01/17/07, 08:14 AM

I wonder if Lowes is going belly up in the wake of the imploding housing bubble?

Jolly · #25 01/17/07, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNHermit

You can help these stoves out by getting some fire caulk and using it in the cracks.Where it goes together Not very pretty cause I think firecaulk is red. Mine is. but it will help for a while. Also they make fiberglass door gasket and cement you can use in some cracks. i have one in the green house.
Definitely put a damper in the stove pipe. These don't regulate that well and it will help lot.

Listen up, the man knows what he's talking about.

I've had two of these over the years...the last one was installed in a 10x50 trailer. In order to make it safe, we put some of the same stuff they coat the inside of boilers with in a 1" layer on the bottom of the firebox. We screwed on 5/8" sheet of fire-proof sheetrock to the wall, screwed some 3/4 EMT to the front of the sheet rock and then placed another piece of 5/8" fireproof sheetrock in front, creating a fireproof sandwich.

As said above, caulking the seams and putting in a stovepipe damper help. It ain't airtight, but they're great for a camp, shop, or even in a small house if you are trying to get by cheap. But you will get up at night and feed the stove...

ginnie5 · #26 01/17/07, 01:50 PM

we have this stove and it is just like everyone says...feed it regularly. i have had some luck with keeping going overnight though. first is it has to have a good fire going in it and then I put as big of a log into it as will fit. Once I make sure its going good I close the damper and the little slide on the front. I wait till at least 11:30 to do this. By 5:30 or 6 I need to get up and put more wood on though cause the house is starting to get chilly. We got a small blower that just sits underneath the stove and that makes the biggest difference in how fast the house gets warm. Our stove is in the fireplace so the fan helps move the heat out of the fireplace and into the room. Might not be the ideal setup but its what we could do at the time. If we ever finish this addition we're doing we're going to knock the fireplace out, get a better stove, and have the stove pipe run directly out the wall. The way our house is set up the fireplace is almost right at the front door. Its not facing the main part of the house.

PlowGirl · #27 01/17/07, 02:18 PM

I bought one of these and suffered through several winters before I finally threw the sucker outside, where it still sits. You'll not be able to get any sleep for having to keep the fire going. They do burn good, hot, but incredibly fast. Personal best burn time for me was just under 4 hours, burning dry wood, not green.

I'll get another wood stove, but will never have one of those cussed box stoves again. Soapstone, or maybe a Blaze King if I get a windfall.

neolady · #28 01/17/07, 06:52 PM

There are plenty of woodstoves around certified for mobile home installation. They are small, are heavily shielded for minimum clearances. If the unit is certified for mobile home use, then there should not be a problem obtaining insurance if you install the correct one to the correct chimney specifications.

Like has been pointed out above - if you do not notify your insurance company that you have a woodstove, and you have a claim caused by one, you will be denied coverage.