Outside air supply for woodstove in non-airtight house? - Page 2 - Homesteading Today
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  #21  
Old 12/15/06, 09:52 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kansas
Posts: 207
Quote:
Rest Easy...
Thanks - your explanation cleared it up for me !
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  #22  
Old 12/15/06, 12:40 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Safe distance from Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,120
Quote:
Originally Posted by fastbackpony
OK - i'm going to just admit it . . . i've never heard of this

we have a new house - aug. 10 - 06 and are heating completely with wood - and we have no vents of any kind. did we do something wrong ? ? are we going to die of oxegen depletion in the middle of the night ? ?

sometimes it gets too warm and i crack a window.

i grew up in an old house, and we had a big basement with a big double barrel stove, and i never even heard of anyone mentioning venting in cold air for this.

whats the deal ? ? ? why would this be necessary ?

it stinks to be so dumb about these things . . . . . sorry
For what it is worth, here is WA for new construction with a wood stove, code requires it be vented with outside air.
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  #23  
Old 12/15/06, 04:34 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Ozarks
Posts: 86
I thought the primary reason for an outside air supply was so that you do not use already heated air for combustion, thus raising the efficiency.
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  #24  
Old 12/18/06, 02:49 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: OlyPen
Posts: 4,142
Quote:
Originally Posted by caberjim
We have an older steel Country Flame woodstove. The air intake and dampers are on the front doors - big knobs that spin in and out. Is it worth it to run a pipe thru the floor that comes up right in front of the woodstove doors? That would bring fresh air up to the outside of the stove where the intake is.
I always found it worth doing in any house with any stove that doesn't already have an outside air supply. Even if you think you don't have cool drafts, you heating efficiency will greatly improve.
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  #25  
Old 12/18/06, 03:26 PM
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 5,425
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZealYouthGuy
LOL, we just have nice 121 year old house that has cold air returns in the floor for the oil burner in the basement. All we heat with is our woodburner... it's airtight, the house isn't air tight by modern standards but well insulated with good windows.

I've never heard of air inlets in an old farm house. interesting.

ps... anyone with those outside air vents have pictures of your set up?
Here is how my stove is installed.

Inside
Outside air supply for woodstove in non-airtight house? - Homesteading Questions

outside
Outside air supply for woodstove in non-airtight house? - Homesteading Questions

I cut the hole with a 4" hole saw. I used a dryer type vent and dryer type hose. This connected directly to the stove. It is an air tight with an outside air inlet. The house isn't "air tight" by any means 170 years old. But it improved the cold drafts in winter.

Last edited by stanb999; 12/18/06 at 03:37 PM.
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  #26  
Old 12/18/06, 04:18 PM
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AFKA ZealYouthGuy
 
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Location: NW Pa./NY Border.
Posts: 11,453
Thanks for the picture... my stove is like the poster above. It has the big two knobs that are screwed in and out to control air into the stove, I just don't think I would see an increase in effieciency running a pipe of air to the underneath of the front door...

If my stove was designed for it, I would do it. But otherwise, I think I will stick with my system I have now.
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  #27  
Old 12/19/06, 08:58 AM
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 67
I have seen these cold air inlets with a trap at the bottom elbow,like a drain trap.....
Abe
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  #28  
Old 12/19/06, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Maryland
Posts: 426
Well, I think I will give it a try. I've just need to think of a way to make it look nice as well as being functional. Maybe use a rectangular vent opening with a nice brass cover like those used in ductwork for central air/heat. That way it can be closed from the inside when not in use and will look better than a gaping hole.

If I could pick everyone's brains just a bit more......

Would be sufficient for the vent to be flush on the floor? Bear in mind the air intake to the stove is on the doors, roughly 8 inches up from the floor. My thought was an airvent flush to the floor around 6-8 inches in front of the stove. Or would closer to the stove make more sense? ie - right beneath the door dampers. Or, should I use ductwork to bring the intake up higher and closer to the dampers? Not pretty, tho. And still needs to be low enough to open the doors.

Thoughts? Thanks.
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  #29  
Old 12/19/06, 12:31 PM
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: OlyPen
Posts: 4,142
I've always dropped a 1 inch pipe through a hole alongside the hearth near the back wall. It is out of the way for loading the stove and stubbing my toe.
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  #30  
Old 12/19/06, 08:16 PM
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Location: Mountains of Vermont, Zone 3
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I put in earth-air pipes, one of which leads to our wood furnace in the basement. This greatly helped with air quality in our 1777 farm house which I wouldn't call tight but apparently was too tight. The earth-air pipes are simply 70' long 4" ID drain pipes buried in the soil. The earth warms the incoming air. Works great for us here in Vermont. I've read that in the south this can produce problems though due to moisture in the pipes. Slant them down and out.
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  #31  
Old 12/21/06, 09:42 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Clarksville TN.
Posts: 890
Quote:
Originally Posted by caberjim
Well, I think I will give it a try. I've just need to think of a way to make it look nice as well as being functional. Maybe use a rectangular vent opening with a nice brass cover like those used in ductwork for central air/heat. That way it can be closed from the inside when not in use and will look better than a gaping hole.

If I could pick everyone's brains just a bit more......

Would be sufficient for the vent to be flush on the floor? Bear in mind the air intake to the stove is on the doors, roughly 8 inches up from the floor. My thought was an airvent flush to the floor around 6-8 inches in front of the stove. Or would closer to the stove make more sense? ie - right beneath the door dampers. Or, should I use ductwork to bring the intake up higher and closer to the dampers? Not pretty, tho. And still needs to be low enough to open the doors.
Thoughts? Thanks.
Just thinking if it vents near the stove and not inside. It will let cold air into the house rather than into the stove when it is smoldering and not burning.
Wondering if you could get a local welder to cut a hole into the back of the stove and weld a nipple of some type onto it, to fasten duck work to? If its like my stove (which has the same described turn knobs for draft) then it has fire bricks up about 12 inches on the insides of the stove. And no ash pan? So there's a problem if so. (For it to draft properly it needs to come in near or under the fire.) If it has an ash pan theres where the vent should be located. Just remember this vent will be your new damper (need a way to close it off) if its cut into the fire box.

Just to try it out! I'm guessing something as small as a vacuum cleaner hose would work as long as it was a small fire. Thinking ill try it at my moms house, as she lives in a very old drafty house still. My shop vac hose should defiantly be large enough for a small fire. Just cut a hole in some plexy glass/cardboard or something a like and stick it in the window close to the stove. Then (metal) duck tape it over the draft. As hers is in the ash pan and it isn't that hot down there.
We smoke so we can test for drafts in the house with a little cigarette smoke.


And might i say to all, what a great idea! No wonder i like to have froze to death in an old farm house we once lived in. I new the more the stove roared the more air it needed to pull in. But never thought to vent it. No wonder the house got so drafty/windy.
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