Question for the septic tank experts.....

Have you thought of renting a metal detector if the pipes are metal? You might be able to trace the lines out, at least in the general direction, and pick up the next tank, which very well may be metal as well.

Don't discount these metal tanks, folks. They had, when installed, a 15 year life expectancy. And the lids for the things did rust through.. in about 30 years. My tank has finally died.. the one my grandfather installed in 1948! So if you know approximately when the thing when in you might be able to estimate a ballpark on when it will ultimately fail.

That said, there are now plastic tanks which can be moved around by two men and a pickup truck warrantied for long periods of time which are much less effort, and much less hassle to install. There are new leach field "pipes" which are triangular (wish I could remember the manufacturer) which we were able to install ourselves a while back, again, not too difficult. And there are new leach field pipes covered with some kind of capillary matting which are supposed to be even better. Again, light weight and extremely efficient (so you need a smaller field).

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Icelandic Sheep and German Angora Rabbits

I have an old backhoe. Last year one of Loretta Lynn's daughters called me to ask if I could come and dig and backfill a new leach field for a septic tank at a small trailer park she owns. Kind of fun in that I had to dig the trench in the shape of a question mark to make a turn and go between some trees. Actually looked like I knew what I was doing.

They used the matting covered, flexible pipe mentioned above. Seems it came in 10' length and snapped together. While pricey, with it you do not need to put in any foreign material (e.g., pea gravel) in backfill. If the ground perks correctly you simply dig the ditch with the proper slope lay it on the bottom and backfill with the dirt taken out of the trench.

I was told one particular advantage of this pipe is the size and light-weight. Seems like it was 10" diamater. As such if the trench bottom isn't perfectly slopped the pipe size can compensate for some up and down while still allowiing plenty of water to flow through it. Can also get by trees roots.

With the above question I strongly suspect the actual leach field is some distance from the structure. That's why there is the sump pump there. May or may not be a separate tank there. Perhaps just a trap leading to a couple of drain lines.

I say to continue to use the system until it fails. If it leaks, you may not even know it (I suspect only way to tell would be to empty the tank, don't put anything in it and then see if it fills back up on its own.) Real danger would be the failure of the tank top. Since it is under the deck that's shouldn't be a particular danger. If it were to eventually collapse you would likely to have to put in a new system anyway and can have the tank backfilled with gravel.

(I have heard if someone falls into a septic tank, and inhales contents, there really isn't a lot medically which can be done for them as they will soon develop a raging lung infection. If it does happen the person should likely dispose of clothing, take a shower and then be taken to the emergency room for observation and possibly preventive treatment.)

If you have ready access you can monitor sludge build up. Take a long pole and tack a strip of cloth on the bottom to say 2' up from it. Lower into tank until it hits bottom and then lift out. Sludge level should appear as a black slick area at the bottom of the pole.

Seems like about a year ago someone put on a cite to a nice article on the monitoring of a septic tank.

While on septic tanks, DO NOT USE A PRODUCT SUCH AS RID-EX. You are asking for future leach field problems. The purpose of the main tank is to allow heavy solids to settle (where bacterial will act on it) and lighter solids to float until bacteria has acted on them and they settle. That's why it is called a 'taa daa' settling tank. Eventually bottom becomes a layer of black sludge. A baffle at the exit keep the floating stuff from going out into the leach field. A tank, in theory, should function until sludge build-up on the bottom reaches the bottom of the baffle. The outgoing water will probably be cloudy, but relatively free of particles.

A product like RID-EX defeats the very purpose of the tank by keeping material in suspension to where it flows out into the leach field each time new contents are added to the tank. There they will eventually clog up the porousitivity (sp?) of the leach field. Only an extension of the field or replacement can solve that problem. The TV ad where the plumber says "Pay now or pay later" is pure B-S.

I understand it is now illegal to sell RID-EX in some states.

On putting in bacteria 'enhancers', they really don't do anything extra. All the bacteria needs is good old human poop to work. Even then, if you were to pour one gallon of milk into a 1,000 tank the dilution would be 1/1,000.

A couple of years ago I spoke with a retired septic tank pumper. He said the vast majority of the ones he emptied didn't even need it. Folks just wanted piece of mind, and he didn't choose to correct their thinking, or it was required as part of a sale. On those which really need it, the prime reason was foreign material being flushed into the tank (including from a garbage disposal). With a state permit he emptied his tank on property he owned. Left on the surface would be the remains of things like disposable diapers, condoms and sanitary napkins. Were an analysis be run on it I suspect there would also be ground up bones, eggshells and coffee grounds from a garbage disposal. Each time you using the washing machine some small quantity of dirt also goes into it. The human body also does not digest most fruit and vegetable seeds.

On toilet paper you can do the jar test. Take say a pint jar and fill about 3/4" with water and put in a wad of the paper you are using. Shake for a couple of seconds and then let settle. The most tank friendly paper will be that which breaks up easily into small pieces. I've heard the Charmen (Sp?) brand basically doesn't break up at all.

I'll assume that you have a shallow well in or near the house for the water supply. The last thing you want is for the metal tank to start leaking that close to your water.

I just had a septic system designer draw up a plan for $200. Installation will cost me about $2,500.

Hi all!
MorrisonCorner, the house was built in 1976, so the tank is approx. 30 years old. And yeah, the lid is getting rusty, but it still keeps the smell in...... BTW, If you go through Rutland, say hi to my sister.........
fishhead, we are actually on public water. There is a well, and the guy that built the house plumbed it so you could switch back and forth pretty easily by turning a couple valves. The well head is not too far from the septic, in the garage, but the lady we got it from said she "thinks" the actual shaft is further out in the yard and her dad just put the pump where it wouldn't freeze up in the winter. We have not turned it on yet, so don't even know if it works! She also says it has iron in it and will stain things red. But that's coverd in another thread.
Ken, the leach field is on the other side of the house, maybe 100ft? I think I'll do as you say, just use it til it goes, while keeping an eye on it for overload or failure. And yeah, no caustics, or enzymes, or such. And only a minimum of bleach. No disposall, so no worries in that department. Josie

"...just use it til it goes, while keeping an eye on it for overload or failure..."

If you have access to the entire tank top it might be feasible to have a place which flame or water cuts metal sheets to cut out a replacement top, including hatch access. If cut just a tad oversized a welding shop can put on a rim. Then just place over old top. My WAG on cost would be under $500.

3ravens,
Good posts above with lots of information. Typical demise of a septic system is caused by suspended particles exiting tank with the water (effluent). Over time these particles will "clog", for lack of a better term, the field lines/absorbtion lines where perculation occurs. Several newer products are now available to "filter" effluent to prevent particles leaving the tank.

Do a google search for polylok tank risers and also a search for zabel effluent filters. I have several rental properties on septic tanks/systems and have added risers and filters to extend the life of the systems and to provide access to the tank inlets when blockages occur. It beats the heck out of digging to uncover a lid to remove a disposable diaper, stuffed toy, etc. Also the Zabel filter can be removed and hosed off every 12-18 months by removing the riser lid. It takes about 10-15 minutes to remove the lid, hose off, reinstall, replace lid. Field lines thus protected should last almost indefinitly.
I thought this information might be of interest to others.
Good luck.

Regarding effluent filters, please take the advice provided by Jesrynsdad! And that is to service those filters on an annual basis. If that filter becomes plugged from the lack of servicing (ie, cleaning) it will still protect your leach field, but it will likely result in the backing up of sewage into the home. Effluent filters are a great idea....but please make a habit of cleaning them on an annual basis.

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This is the government the Founding Fathers warned us about.....

This tank that you are describing would not be a grease trap would it?
I sold a house (I was the listing agent) and it had a grease trap. The Health Department came out to check the septic location and mind you thought the grease trap was the septic. The septic tank was in the front yard and the grease trap was near the rear of the house coming from the kitchen area.

Just a thought!