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  #41  
Old 07/16/06, 03:43 PM
TNHermit's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: East Tenn.
Posts: 10,131
Haven't seen anything on here. Is anybody ready to go

Here are some sites for hardware and things for furniture.

http://www.rockler.com/index.cfm?cookietest=1

http://www.leevalley.com/home.aspx

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/home.exe

http://www.vandykes.com/

http://toolsforwoodworking.com/

http://woodcraft.com
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  #42  
Old 07/16/06, 04:07 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NO VA
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subbing for the day we get settled and are able to actually do this.

Thanks so very much Hermit for offering and being so kind as to help others! Reese
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  #43  
Old 07/23/06, 04:09 PM
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This is exciting !!!!!

I will be watching to see how everyone is doing.
I am needing a kitchen table / computer table myself.
I was telling DH the other day, we need to build our own.
I have book marked this thread so I can learn at my own s l o w pace.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help so many of us.
((( tnhermit )))

=o)
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  #44  
Old 07/23/06, 04:54 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: East Tenn.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sticklady
This is exciting !!!!!

I will be watching to see how everyone is doing.
I am needing a kitchen table / computer table myself.
I was telling DH the other day, we need to build our own.
I have book marked this thread so I can learn at my own s l o w pace.

Thank you so much for taking the time to help so many of us.
((( tnhermit )))

=o)
I've been watching this thread. And although there was a lot of interest I guess nobody is ready. at least I haven't heard from anyone
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  #45  
Old 07/23/06, 10:09 PM
AppleJackCreek
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: near Edmonton AB
Posts: 3,717
Hi there,

I am still doing flooring, but I am ready to start taking a look at what is in the woodpile and seeing if what I have out there will make a table top.

How do I know what I am looking for? I have all this barn board ... do I need some sort of subsurface to attach it to, or just cross braces? I should at least pick out the boards I need. Some are wider, some are thicker ... what do I need to go hunting for?

Can we build the top and then attach legs later on?

Thanks TN Hermit !
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  #46  
Old 07/23/06, 10:22 PM
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Location: East Tenn.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frazzlehead
Hi there,

I am still doing flooring, but I am ready to start taking a look at what is in the woodpile and seeing if what I have out there will make a table top.

How do I know what I am looking for? I have all this barn board ... do I need some sort of subsurface to attach it to, or just cross braces? I should at least pick out the boards I need. Some are wider, some are thicker ... what do I need to go hunting for?

Can we build the top and then attach legs later on?

Thanks TN Hermit !

Decide how big of top you want. I don't know if the wood is planed or not. But I would just lay them out on the ground till I got a pattern I liked. I try to put the same or similar grain pattern together on the edges. In other words if you were going to glue it together try and get the grain patterns to look like they run together. But its a personal choice.

If your table is not going to be over 6 or 7 ft long and the boards are 3/4 in thick or better you'll be allright with that
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Last edited by TNHermit; 07/23/06 at 10:26 PM.
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  #47  
Old 07/23/06, 10:28 PM
Perpetually curious!
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: North Central Michigan
Posts: 2,747
I am very interested and willing to learn. Just need a couple more weeks before I personally can start (have a LOT going on). I just figured I would mark this thread and try to catch up with everyone else. Just now getting ready to look at the sites listed.
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  #48  
Old 07/23/06, 10:37 PM
AppleJackCreek
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: near Edmonton AB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNHermit

If your table is not going to be over 6 or 7 ft long and the boards are 3/4 in thick or better you'll be allright with that

Yep, I'm looking at 6' long and the boards are about 3/4" thick. They have tongue and groove 'shaping' (for lack of a better description): do we want to use that, or assume we'll skim it off with a table saw and just butt them side by side?
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  #49  
Old 07/23/06, 11:24 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posts: 5,492
Standard rule of thumb is 2ft personal space per person at a table and 2ft out from the table for the chair - if you want to be able to walk behind a person seated at the table figure another 2-3+ ft between them and a the wall.

So if you wanted to walk around people seated at the table you will need a minimum of 4 ft from the edge of the table to the wall, but 5 would be better (especially if you seating large people) and a whole lot easier if you will be carrying food to the table.

Sure wish I had the time to join the project... sounds like a lot of great info is fixin' to get passed along!
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  #50  
Old 07/24/06, 07:29 AM
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Location: East Tenn.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frazzlehead
Yep, I'm looking at 6' long and the boards are about 3/4" thick. They have tongue and groove 'shaping' (for lack of a better description): do we want to use that, or assume we'll skim it off with a table saw and just butt them side by side?
Depends on the look you want. If they fit together respectably Leave them on
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  #51  
Old 07/24/06, 08:41 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Well the wood on that tree was no good. It was eaten up with some kind of bug. Guess that is why such a large tree came down in the storm? So I don't have any wood, Dave. I guess that means I am on the wait a few weeks list, too.

I know dh will be fine with buying what we need because we really do need a table. To BUY a table that will fit a family our size is astronomically expensive. I think I want a square table that will fit two people on each side, big enough for 8 folks. So, what do I need to buy, Hermit? I don't really care about what "color" or "kind" of wood. It needs to be sturdy. The kids will likely feel it is their duty to climb all over it. And it needs to be inexpensive. The rest we can do with stain, I guess.

Forgot to mention I have another ally in this project. My Dad, for whom woodworking is somewhat of a hobby will help me, but he has a lot more enthusiasm than experience. He is just learning. He has a huge woodworking shop, and just about every tool under the sun, though. I should probably do this over at his place, right? That means I have to transport the table about 3 hours from his place to mine when it is done.

Thanks for your help, Dave.

Cindyc.
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  #52  
Old 07/24/06, 08:44 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: East Tenn.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cindyc
Well the wood on that tree was no good. It was eaten up with some kind of bug. Guess that is why such a large tree came down in the storm? So I don't have any wood, Dave. I guess that means I am on the wait a few weeks list, too.

I know dh will be fine with buying what we need because we really do need a table. To BUY a table that will fit a family our size is astronomically expensive. I think I want a square table that will fit two people on each side, big enough for 8 folks. So, what do I need to buy, Hermit? I don't really care about what "color" or "kind" of wood. It needs to be sturdy. The kids will likely feel it is their duty to climb all over it. And it needs to be inexpensive. The rest we can do with stain, I guess.

Forgot to mention I have another ally in this project. My Dad, for whom woodworking is somewhat of a hobby will help me, but he has a lot more enthusiasm than experience. He is just learning. He has a huge woodworking shop, and just about every tool under the sun, though. I should probably do this over at his place, right? That means I have to transport the table about 3 hours from his place to mine when it is done.

Thanks for your help, Dave.

Cindyc.
Where are you at. I wouldn't just give up I can give you a list so you can still build a table to suit.
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Last edited by TNHermit; 07/24/06 at 08:46 AM.
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  #53  
Old 07/24/06, 09:18 AM
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/
Quote:
Originally Posted by TNHermit
Where are you at. I wouldn't just give up I can give you a list so you can still build a table to suit.
I am in Middle TN. Dad is a bit further east. If you could give me a list, that would be great.
Cindyc.
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  #54  
Old 07/24/06, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cindyc
/

I am in Middle TN. Dad is a bit further east. If you could give me a list, that would be great.
Cindyc.
I live in E Tenn so he is probably not to far away. There is a lot of inexpensive lumber around if you know where too look. What size and kind of table do you want to build?
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  #55  
Old 07/24/06, 04:28 PM
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TNHermit
I've been watching this thread. And although there was a lot of interest I guess nobody is ready. at least I haven't heard from anyone
Not ready here yet, but definitely still interested! I'll keep my eye out on this thread too to see what others are up to.
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  #56  
Old 07/24/06, 05:44 PM
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Location: A short way past Oddville
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I saw Norms' trick for getting even table legs (everyone does know the 'Wood God' Norm Abrahms I assume). He levels the table with shims under the legs that need it. Once level, use a set of dividers or a compass set to make a pencil mark around the shortest leg. Use the same setting to make similar marks on the other 3 legs. Once marked you can saw the legs ending up with them all being the same size.
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  #57  
Old 07/24/06, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Willy
I saw Norms' trick for getting even table legs (everyone does know the 'Wood God' Norm Abrahms I assume). He levels the table with shims under the legs that need it. Once level, use a set of dividers or a compass set to make a pencil mark around the shortest leg. Use the same setting to make similar marks on the other 3 legs. Once marked you can saw the legs ending up with them all being the same size.

The one thing Nahm didn't say (I do like him) is that what ever surface you put your table on has to be flat and level (in plane) or it won't work
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  #58  
Old 07/24/06, 06:45 PM
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I stand corrected. Now, can you give a verbal description on making and using a jig to cut box joints on a table saw? I thought making the apron for a table with two different woods (walnut & oak) would be set off with box joints.
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  #59  
Old 07/24/06, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer Willy
I stand corrected. Now, can you give a verbal description on making and using a jig to cut box joints on a table saw? I thought making the apron for a table with two different woods (walnut & oak) would be set off with box joints.
Lets see if I can do this so it makes sense

1. First thing you need is a good set of dado blades.
2. Second thing you need is a good miter gauge set at 90 degrees to your dado
3. Set your dado blade so it cuts just slighlty higher than the thickness of the wood your going to use.
4. Stand a good flat 1x4 on edge against the miter gauge. Let it stick out beyond the blade about 6 inches.
5.Turn your saw on and push it through so it makes a notch in the board.
6. Make a small piece of wood about 4inches long that fits exactly in the notch you just cut. Cut it in half (2-2" pieces) then glue one piece in the notch. so about 1in sticks out
7 Put the 1x4 on edge with the little piece of wood that you glued in to the right of the dado blade.place the other half of the little piece between the blade and the glued in piece.
8. Now this is a little bit tricky. You want to run some screws through the miter gauge into the 1x4. Most miter guages have two holes in them for this. You want that little piece of wood to just have a slip fit when you fasten the screws in. Sometimes its better to fasten another piece of 1x4 to the miter gauge and clamp the one your making to that. That way you can adjust the fit after you make some test cuts.
9. Once you have that done. Take some scraps about 8in or so long. What ever your comfortable to handle. Stand one on end against the 1x4 and push it to the right till its up against the glued in block.
10 Make a cut and put the notch you just made over the little block that sticks out and make another cut. Do this till you go clear across the board.
11. since were doing test cut. Do another board the same way. When you have two boards done. See how they fit. They won't be even on the edges yet. we just want to see if the joint (fingers) fits. If the fingers wont go together then the distance between the blade and the glued in finger is to wide. if there is a gap, the distance is to narrow. Move it about half the distance you think you need and do another set of test cuts.

Lets see if I have explained this well enough for you to get this far and we'll go from there.



THis guy does his on the left of the blade but its the same thing. He's English
http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/...nts/index.html



http://www.americanfurnituredsgn.com...%20joionts.htm
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  #60  
Old 07/25/06, 05:07 PM
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I'll try this week when I'm off work, and after the aspirin takes the edge off of the headache---I know you wrote it in english, I'll just need to take it one step at a time.
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