Trapping lures

fishhead · #21 06/26/11, 11:02 AM

I took all of my #3 dls and #2 coils to a friend. He put a weld bead on each side of 1 jaw to make them offset. We probably did 100 in an evening.

I like the idea of putting the chain in line with the pull and the shock absorber.

gunseller · #22 06/26/11, 11:03 AM

My traps are set up like the one TrapperJim poster except for the spring and last swivel in the chain and brand. For coyotes I use 3 Montorys. I know they have been out of business for years but I have 12 dozen or more so they will be used for years. I bought the solid jaw traps. Then laminated, 4 coiled and put a small steel rod at the corners to give an off set. The reason for going with the solid jaws to start with is they have a rounded edge where the off sets have a sharp square edge, round egde means no cutting of the foot. Mine are the step ins so there is no dog. Swivels are at the trap and one more double swivel about 3 inches out from the trap. When coyotes are the only target the traps have 9 inches of chain and 2 laplinks but where big old coons may come by the traps have 18 inches of chain with 2 lap links. The short chain stops lunges by coyotes and the longer chains stops coons from breaking their back leg. Center of the pan on coyote traps in 8 to 9 inches back from the front edge of the hole and off set to the left so the levers are in line with the edge of the hole. This trap location gives back foot catches on coon. I have tried springs but with only 9 inches of chain from the trap to the stake there is not enough room. For stakes before freeze up I do use cable stakes but after freeze up I go with 2 foot of 1/2 inch rerod streight down and 18 inches of 3/8 rerod at an angle in the bottom fof the trap bed. The 2 foot rerod stakes get used in water. Water coon traps just have chain added to get to 2 feet and are set with the chain all the way out into the water. The 1 1/2 coils set in land are center swiveled and have another swivel at 3 inches with 3 inches more chain added with 2 lap links. All chain on land traps in machine chain.
Steve

fishhead · #23 06/27/11, 11:00 AM

I was looking at last years trapping regs and it looks like I won't be able to hunt and trap at the same time because you can only carry small caliber rifles while trapping.

That would stop me from setting a few rat and mink traps on the beaver ponds while grouse hunting. Most of the ponds are miles from the road so they aren't worth trapping for just a few rats unless I'm going by while grouse hunting.

I've got a question sent to the DNR. I hope that I'm wrong.

Edited to add:

My CO just emailed me and said it only matters if you are checking traps after dark with an artificial light. That's great news because I know of about 100 beaver ponds and small streams. They all have a few rats on them and many times a mink or 2.

fishhead · #24 06/30/11, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chickenman

My favorite land trap for raccoon and fox is by far the Duke 1.5. First thing I do when I take them from the box is remove the factory chain. This gets replaced with good machine link chain. Every trap has three swivel points. I night latch the pan notch, square up the dog, and run a file over any rough spots. These traps hold everything on my line from mink to the occasional coyote with little to no foot damage. If I had more coyotes here, I'd set more larger traps. I have quite a few tricked out traps like Jim mentioned. Mostly Bridger #2 offsets. They're laminated, 4-coiled, baseplated with a center swivel, and the chains have extra swivels and shock springs. These traps work great for fox too, but I don't like them for coon. Too much room under the jaws.

Edit to add; I use pogo cable stakes exclusively now. After trying about every cable stake on the market, I decided these were the best for the type of soil I have here, and the cheapest for me to make. I attach them to the trap with a split ring. I use a j-hook in high theft areas.

What kind of soil do you have? We have lots of sand here.

We've also got wolves so they would need to hold a lot but I would still need to be able to pull them without wrecking my back.

chickenman · #25 06/30/11, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhead

What kind of soil do you have? We have lots of sand here.

We've also got wolves so they would need to hold a lot but I would still need to be able to pull them without wrecking my back.

Rocky, clay loam. I usually go with 12 inches of cable and it's more than enough.

And just an FYI, don't try and pull cable stakes by hand. You'll kill yourself. I use a long piece of square stock with a hook welded on it. Some guys use a winch on an atv. If I have sets in the woods, or places that aren't tilled, I leave them and use them from year to year. Some guys just cut them as deep as they can and leave them.

fishhead · #26 06/30/11, 05:07 PM

It looks like I'll go with 1 1/2 coilsprings with offset jaws, baseplate mounted chain, PIT shock absorber and multiple swivels for fox and 1 3/4 coilsprings with offset jaws, baseplate mounted chain, PIT shock absorber and multiple swivels for coyote.

I may go with the cable stakes but use machine chain instead of cable. I've read that the cable will sometimes stick up if it isn't put in deep enough.

I'll just experiment before season to see how well they hold in our soil.

chickenman · #27 07/04/11, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fishhead

It looks like I'll go with 1 1/2 coilsprings with offset jaws, baseplate mounted chain, PIT shock absorber and multiple swivels for fox and 1 3/4 coilsprings with offset jaws, baseplate mounted chain, PIT shock absorber and multiple swivels for coyote.

I may go with the cable stakes but use machine chain instead of cable. I've read that the cable will sometimes stick up if it isn't put in deep enough.

I'll just experiment before season to see how well they hold in our soil.

Yeah, sometimes the cable does stick up. I always drive them deep enough that the cable doesn't show. When you make a catch though, they sometimes get pulled up a bit. It makes remakes a little tougher, but not a major deal. I just pack dirt over it or lay a rock on it.

The trap you described (except for the shock spring) in the 1.5 sounds like the MB-450 OS from Minnesota Trapline Products. They're a little pricey, but they are the cadillac of traps. No modification needed.

littlejoe · #28 07/05/11, 08:08 PM

Hardly ever got my feet wet, but did trap a lot of coyote, with occasional fox, or cat. Usually made my own baits with horsemeat.

By far, the best lure I ever used was Carman's Canine Call.

Traps ran from victors, blake and lamb, montgomery, to northwoods. Longspring, coilspring, with a few old jumps thrown in. Also used snares.

My favorite was modified #2 northwoods. The frame was heavy enough for yotes already. I 4coiled them, laminated/offset the jaws, added more swivels, filed a trigger, and put a spring in the chain. They comprised about half of my 120 traps.

I preferred to stake traps, since most of my lines were ran at night, and on private property. There was a small amount of goverment land that I did trap on, so occasionly used a drag, if in a high visibility or rocky ground area. Plus, if there was something nearby for them to tangle in.

Colorado outlawed trapping, (through a vote) some years ago... you can apply for a damage permit. I wrote many letters to the editor of newspapers, and most were printed. But the area from colorado springs north, carries the vote!

I still have kept most of what I had, hoping to someday use them again. So guard your rights well, and stay proactive!!!

fishhead · #29 07/06/11, 08:05 AM

I trapped coyotes near Wray one fall.