Fencing Hilly, Wooden-ness

motdaugrnds · #21 01/10/14, 07:24 PM

I can tell you how we did it as our land was similar to what OP described.

First off, it is best NOT to attach fencing to trees because, in time, either the trees die or grows around the fence. We used old pieces of water hose to attach fencing to trees.

Since we, too, raise goats, the fencing needs to be strong enough so that, when they stand on it to reach across to whatever they see looking good, the wire will not bend down so much they can eventually get across it. (This meant a solid post either treated wood or metal T ones placed every 4....yes four....feet.)

To go up and down slopes, we used a come-along to stretch the fencing and where it started leaving a gap at the bottom (due to the slope of the land) is where we cut the fence. Starting that fence again going down or up hill...This simply meant the ends of that fencing were cut at a slant to fit the posts holding it.

We had a couple of gulleys to work around; and the way we did this was to DOUBLE FENCE. This meant an 8 ft long fence post stabilized well in concrete on each side of that gulley the fencing crossed with one piece of fencing at the bottom of that gulley and another piece of fencing overlapping it and continuing up those 2 posts.

Hope this helps.

aart · #22 01/11/14, 05:04 AM

I would think you wouldn't want a fence right on the property line, but 6-8-10 feet inside of it so you CAN maintain both sides of the fence....and were your property line properly surveyed?

I found that the fences that I thought marked the property lines when I bought this place were in fact 10 feet off the property lines once it was truly surveyed.

Tango · #23 01/11/14, 05:08 AM

Okay the consensus is not to staple to the trees. I wan't going to use the trees in place of posts, just nail to them if they were right on the wire as an added support. Will try to stay just inside the property line and cut down smaller trees that are in the line on my side. Can't do anything about the other side... really happy none of this hard work is for this year

Thanks ya'll

Tango · #24 01/11/14, 05:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aart

I would think you wouldn't want a fence right on the property line, but 6-8-10 feet inside of it so you CAN maintain both sides of the fence....and were your property line properly surveyed?

I found that the fences that I thought marked the property lines when I bought this place were in fact 10 feet off the property lines once it was truly surveyed.

Thanks. If I leave any measurable distance it will be used by the neighbor when they need a fence and it will be a source of tension and stress for me and I will kick myself for not fencing to the line- I've seen it happen and I have enough to deal with already. My survey goes by an old fence which is down but still traceable and the side I'm fencing is gvt. owned presently and the markers are fresh.

Tango · #25 01/11/14, 05:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by motdaugrnds

Since we, too, raise goats, the fencing needs to be strong enough so that, when they stand on it to reach across to whatever they see looking good, the wire will not bend down so much they can eventually get across it. (This meant a solid post either treated wood or metal T ones placed every 4....yes four....feet.)

To go up and down slopes, we used a come-along to stretch the fencing and where it started leaving a gap at the bottom (due to the slope of the land) is where we cut the fence. Starting that fence again going down or up hill...This simply meant the ends of that fencing were cut at a slant to fit the posts holding it.

We had a couple of gulleys to work around; and the way we did this was to DOUBLE FENCE. This meant an 8 ft long fence post stabilized well in concrete on each side of that gulley the fencing crossed with one piece of fencing at the bottom of that gulley and another piece of fencing overlapping it and continuing up those 2 posts.

Hope this helps.

Yes, very helpful, thanks