More help please

No . . .I'd not use Corid - use either Dimethox or Sulmet, preferably Dimethox.

http://www.jefferslivestock.com/di-m.../LIV/cp/A2-AE/

http://www.jefferslivestock.com/sulm.../LIV/cp/16350/

http://www.jefferslivestock.com/sulm.../LIV/cp/F7-SY/

One of the above. . .

Corid usually has a resistance in most places. . .The vet is likely very clueless.

I'd also get Thiamine or Vit B Complex at TSC or SS if the vet will not give it. . .

No IM in the neck - do it in the back leg/thigh. . .

After the cocci is treated, put her on a medicated feed or do a preventative treatment every 21 days with the sulmet or dimethox for 5 days until she is old enough to have a resistance.

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I agree with Creamers. You didn't say what kind of Coccidiosis med it is but I hope it isn't Corid, which doesn't kill the damaging stage of the Cocci as well as Di methox. Hopefully it's Di-Methox. Goats are better off with under the skin injections over the ribs only, the skin is looser there. She only needs hay.
Did the vet see coccidiosis on the fecal exam?
Enterotoximia is a bloat from the rumen shutting down and the clostridium overgrowing, there's pain with enterotoximia, antitoxin is given as Audra said, not antibiotic shots from what i've read. Some have given the pennicillin orally. here is something on it. http://dairygoatinfo.com/index.php/topic,30.0.html do a search there on the subject.
That vet doesn't know goats at all.
Hopefully you're worming with a good wormer also. I would use Ivomecplus for liverfluke also.

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Okay-a new plan for the coccidia and the clostridium AND the search for a new vet begins today!

Meanwhile-WE HAVE BERRIES! I don't think I've ever been so happy to step in goat poop at 5am!

Considering the info above, can anyone give me an opinion about whether or not I should stop the penicillin after starting? The horror stories of antibiotic misuse scares me silly and I don't want to stop and make anything worse but I don't want to continue if they are not needed.

*(I'd personally NEVER give an IM injection in the thigh due to the sciatic nerve paralysis)** First IM injection I ever gave to a goat ( was for travel induced stress-congestion) I gave the thigh after seeing a chart like the "color" one...and no offense to Oberhasli kid either...as I know it can be done if you are experienced.

I wasn't, and I had even worked for a Vet previously-so I wasn't squeamish. As I gave the injection the doe-goat kicked, and the needle scraped across the nerve, totally paralyzing the leg. It was so very upsetting. No one knew what I could do to help the problem... It only lasted a day but it horrified my children and I thinking we'd just ruined a beautiful doe. I know others have done the same and the nerve didn't recover.

I've given penG oral, sub Q, and IM....I only give IM if I absolutely have to and I give it in the the "v" of the lower meaty neck/shoulder area only, and with a half inch needle. I hate the 1 inch needles. I'd never try an IV medicine injection to a goat in ignorance of the procedure either. You can "mainline" and kill the goat in a couple of screaming-painful seconds. I have a friend who did this by not backing out the syringe plunger a bit, once the needle is in, to check for a vein hit before he injected the medicine.

Sorry to sound dramatic..but I sure don't want PaisleyP to try hard and have an incident when there's an easier way. Learning to give injections should not be a blind, scary, hit and miss ordeal as you need to learn confidence so you don't hesitate when the need arises again.

Glad your doe is getting better.
98% of what needs done for a goat can be done SQ. Did anyone mention that the gauge needles should be 20-22...not the huge bore 18's or lower.?

-scrt crk

Hi Kim,

I was taught by a 30+ yr dairy goat breeder to give IM in the neck-shoulder junction...never up near the windpipe of spine. And it's easier to steady the goat at that site. She showed me to make a "V"(upside down peace sign) with my fingers aganist the neck and just along the edge of the shoulder bone. Then inject between my V'd fingers.
-scrt crk

Never stop the antibiotic. You have seen improvement. Continue as you are going.

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I'm still at a loss as to why the vet is having you use an anitbiotic at all.

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So glad she's pooping beries & sounds like she's on the mend. What kind of cocci medication did the vet give you for her?

Some long time goat breeders can remain behind the times with goat management. Sub Q injections are more comfortable and just as good or better for goats.

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I do the IM shots in the right place in the back leg per the vet's advice. . .often Vets are clueless, but ours almost exclusively sees livestock, and he has directed us fairly right so far, but I prefer doing SQ injections. .when possible.

I am pretty sure the OP said the vet gave Corid, which is useless.

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Shannon,

Was just thinking about you and wondering how Millie is doing today?

Angela

Thanks for asking, Angela.

To look at her you'd think she was fine. She's outside frolicling around kicking her heels up like it's the best day ever. But I'm still really worried.

I took some info that I got here from you guys and called the vet. I asked for Thiamine and he told me to give her yogurt. I asked about Di-Methox and he said he has better luck with Corid. I asked about an anti-toxin and he told me to stop the penicillin since she was pooping berries again.

I'm still at a total loss. I want to right her gut somehow and make sure the coccidia is under control but I am pretty much paralyzed with fear and the thought I might do too much.

So it's all still pretty much a mess. I think when this is done I need tranquilizers. Sometimes I wish I weren't such a control freak. I just worry that she'll be fine one minute then get down the next and she won't get back up.

But thanks again for asking. <3

I don't have the experience to give you advice...but I do know how you feel and wanted to give you a big hug.

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I would definately find a vet who will give you thiamin to have on hand. I won't be without a bottle of it here. If you can't find a vet who will sell you a bottle, you can order a bottle of fortified B complex as well as DiMethox from places like Jeffers and Hoeggers. Be sure the B complex is fortified as the regular stuff doesn't have enough thiamin. Corid can actually impair the goat's thiamin balance in a ruminating goat and I would not give it without thiamin on hand to prevent a bout of polio. Yogurt will not replace the need for thiamin, but your vet is correct in advising you to give some to your goat. Any time you give an antibiotic, it's wise to also give a probiotic such as Probios, yogurt or kefir.
As for the needles, the color does not indicate where you inject the goat. It indicates the guage of the needle. I always use the smallest I can and base it on the consistency of the med I'm using. For most meds, I use the 20g pink ones. For Nuflor, which is thicker, I use the green 18g ones. I inject all antibiotics, vitamins and minerals SQ. The only meds I inject IM are Banamine and Oxytocin. I had a vet once inject one of my does IV with Banamine and B complex, but I will not do IV shots myself. It's too easy to kill a goat that way. Good luck with your girl. It sounds like she's on the mend.

I'm guessing the other type of parasite your vet told you she had was trichostrongiles. I'm not sure how he could say that from a fecal, because trichostrongile eggs cannot be easily differentiated from haemonchus contortus (barberpole worm) or ostertagia eggs without doing a fecal culture to look at the larvae.

Trichostrongiles and ostertagia can both cause diarrhea, and should respond to chemical dewormers. Trichostrongiles live in the small intestine, Haemonchus and ostertagia live in the abomasum.

OK, you know this, but you are really over worrying. Your goat is not a mess. Your thinking is a mess.

Stop.

Corid is ok.

Get some B-Complex injectable at the feed store.

Browse around on the Hoegger Goat Supply website and order things to make you feel like you are in control.

Drink a glass of wine. It's five o'clock somewhere.

Alice (a reformed worrier)

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