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  #21  
Old 08/05/10, 10:02 AM
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southeast MO
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I haven't seen a Kinder goat, but it surprises me that adding a smaller stature goat to the Nubians adds more meat. I haven't found much of a difference in the yield from my Nubians and Boers. In fact, I'm considering getting out of the Boers and just using the Nubian bucks for our meat.

What does the pygmy bring to the mix over just straight Nubian?
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  #22  
Old 08/05/10, 10:33 AM
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Location: central south dakota
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april, great questions, and i am hoping to hear answers for them as well.

i have saanens, but no need to keep any kids next year so sold my saanen buck (he got pretty mean anyhow) and got a boer buckling. i won't be tempted to keep kids, altho i know of a few who do milk that cross with great results.

is there somewhere that has studied the meat gotten from nubian vs. boer? would love to hear more on this topic
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  #23  
Old 08/05/10, 04:44 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: East of Bryan, Texas
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Hmmm, just a note:

Kinders and Minis can both inherit "little teats"... however, I have milked Nubians, Grades, etc., that also had membership in the "itty-bitty-teaty-committee" so it is NOT breed specific. (Nigerian Dwarfs and Pygmies both came from the same African genetic stock many decades ago. While 30 years of selective breeding has made Pygmies more meat related and NDs more dairy related, and therefore registered as separate breeds, both breeds still experience a reasonable percentage of throw-backs. As is expected of any new breed less than a century old. )

However, depending upon how you intend to milk, you might not consider tiny teats a flaw. Instead of "hand milking", I use a hand-milker, much like a Maggidan's but not at Maggidan prices, and I prefer the small teats over the huge, voluptuous girls.

Since you are gathering all of your info before hand, you might try different milking methods and then buy goats with teats that work best for your method. If you use a milker like I do, you can get a break by buying girls who are being culled due to small teats. If everything else about them is good, and that is the reason they are being culled, then you are getting a bargain.
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  #24  
Old 08/05/10, 04:54 PM
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caliann...where did you get your hand milker?
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  #25  
Old 08/05/10, 05:17 PM
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[BEGIN: Threadjack]

~grinz~ At the local co-op. All it is, is a 12.5 mL multi-use injector for vaccinating herds. The co-op has several brands. The injector cost $20 and the syringe cup used for a teat cup was $0.30. (Get a 20 mL syringe)

You can find them online at Jeffers, Valley Vet, etc., if you do your shopping there. Or your local TSC, Ranch supply, Co-op, whatever. Just get the adjustable one for 12.5 mL; several companies make them.

(Tubing is included)

[/END Threadjack]
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Last edited by CaliannG; 08/05/10 at 05:28 PM.
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  #26  
Old 08/07/10, 05:10 PM
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The orfice size is important in any goat but especially those with smaller teat size. A good size orfice makes milking much easier. Breeding to improve teat size can be done when working with a line that you really like.

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  #27  
Old 08/08/10, 07:50 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast MO
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Listening along here as we were just starting to look into kinder goats ourselves. We have at least a year before we would be getting anything though. I was looking at something mostly for milk as well and that doesn't take a lot of feed. We have 4 acres m/l of property but not all of it is very useable. We have a big hill and think that it would a good place for goats. It seems from my brief reading that the kinder provide a good amount of milk for the amount of feed they take. Plus, starting out it would be nice to have a smaller animal I think-especially with kids. We have no intention of showing goats so that wouldn't be an issue for us.
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  #28  
Old 08/08/10, 09:01 AM
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Kinders are good milking animals. I have had two that have made their stars milking over a gallon and one milking one and half gallons in a one day test. Breeding is the key to a milking doe no matter the breed. In order for a doe to milk well they must receive a good diet of hay and grain. It is important that goats are able to access those long fibers of hay, grass, leaves and et. Those fibers keep the ruminant working in the proper way.

Goats also need shelter from the elements but they do not need to be fancy. Remember to keep their hay and feed off the ground so you can cut down on the internal parasites.

Goats need their hooves trimmed on a regular basis, over grown feet will in time cripple the animal. You can't just buy a goat then turn it loose to fend for itself then expect to get a good supply of milk.

Remember to check with the seller about CAE and CL.

Just a few reminders before you buy a goat of any breed.

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  #29  
Old 08/08/10, 11:01 AM
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast MO
Posts: 105
I appreciate the thoughts. We had did a fair amount of studying on goats before as we had planned to buy reg. variety milking goat. We didn't end up doing so as my son couldn't tolerate the milk(I am hoping he will be able to now). It is good to hear that a lot of things are universal in regards to goats.
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  #30  
Old 08/09/10, 04:21 PM
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There is lots of information on the Kinder goat on the Kinder Face Book Page.

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  #31  
Old 08/10/10, 03:28 PM
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Here are the end results of a study done by two 4-H youth on goats of different breeders. The locker failed to record the hanging weight of the Kinder which is really too bad.

Boer
Live wt. 53 pounds
Hanging wt. 20 pounds
15 pounds of burger

Dairy X
Live wt. 51 pounds
Hanging wt. 24 pounds
13 pounds of burger

Kinder
Live wt. 61 pounds
No hanging wt.
18 pounds of burger

These wts. did not include the liver and heart.

image
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  #32  
Old 08/11/10, 03:40 PM
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Kinders are dual purpose (meat & milk), easy keepers. Breeding for both is rewarding. I have raised several breeds, kept barn records on feed, milk production, meat and ect. Kinder goats have proved themselves to me over the years.
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  #33  
Old 08/14/10, 04:58 PM
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In a recent study by two youth comparing three different breeds of goats, Kinder, Boer and dairy cross, the dress out was as follows: Kinder 28%.Boer 27% and the dairy cross was 24%.

image
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  #34  
Old 03/10/11, 06:32 AM
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I too, am looking at Kinder Goats. However, I don't know anything about raising them. I have bought some really great books on raising goats, and am trying to learn everything I can before getting them. Unfortunately, where I live, there doesn't seem to be anyone that raises the Kinder goat. Or, at least I can't seem to find anyone listed on the Kinder Breed website. I'm in Massachusetts, near the VT and NY boarders. Would anyone on here know of a breeder close by? I have no problem traveling. Any help I can get in locating a breeder would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you so much for the posts above mine, as they have been of great help in learning.
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  #35  
Old 03/11/11, 01:28 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Huntington WV
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I've raised Mini Nubians and Kinders (though the Kinder Registry does 'allow' you to call a goat a Kinder unless you register with them, which is absurd) - I have not found the Kinders to grow out any meatier than the Mini Nubians because Nubians have LONG been considered a dual purpose goat themselves. . .

You can use a more thick type of Nigerian - which some breeders produce . . .
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  #36  
Old 03/11/11, 03:16 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Washington
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Wow. How did this thread get resurrected?

We have Kinders, though we are new goat owners. PM me and I can tell you more about them and send pics. We've been extremely pleased with them, the quality and amount of milk, their temperament and ease in milking! As with any breed though, a quality line is crucial.

For goat breeders in your area, here's a link.

www.kindergoatbreeders.com/

For more about Kinders in general, here's a link to an article which inspired us.

http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles2/sanderson95.html
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