Septic and Well Questions

Karen · #1 08/29/05, 08:01 PM

Due to health issues, we are doing some major downsizing and will moving to small, but pretty piece of land (1 1/2 acres). We are also purchasing a new custom doublewide and it should arrive from the factory in approx. 6-12 weeks. So it's time to move on getting in the septic and well; however, we've never started from scratch on a piece of property before and have some questions.

What exactly do they do in a perk test? Our property already has been perked and all the permits by the previous owner just a few months prior to selling the land to us. It's our understanding it is to test for the drainage for the drainfield/septic system, but what exactly do they do during that test?

Also, we were told that a well and septic would run approx. $8,000 (we are in SW Virginia). I know it depends on how deep they have to go to hit good water, but on the average, does that sound like in the ballpark?

When they do put the septic and drill and hook up the well, is there anything we need to be on the lookout for or is it one of those things that's a slam dunk?

We feel so stupid on this one!!!

deb · #2 08/29/05, 09:50 PM

Perk test consists of them digging a hole of a certain size, filling it with water and seeing how long it takes for the water to drain from the hole. The water will drain faster or slower depending on your soil type. Some soils have so much clay that they don't drain well.

Every county is different, so before having anyone out to give you a quote, I would find out the septic requirements for your new county from the building dept. Your county extension office probably can give you a handout or booklet that explains the different kinds of septic systems approved for your area as well.

I would ask for a written quote that explains in detail the work & materials included, a list of references and proof of license (if required by your area) & insurance. I would ask for old & new client references because septic installation problems don't show up right away. You might also want to look them up with the BBB.

You may want to ask Cabin Fever for advice since he has relied to posts on the topic before.

Oh yeah, in our county new houses are required to install a regular septic field and a secondary septic field as a back up.
deb
in wi

Don Armstrong · #3 08/29/05, 09:57 PM

Yeah, CabinFever's dah man. Hydrogeology's his training and his profession.

Mel- · #4 08/29/05, 11:13 PM

I put in a double wide about 15 years ago on undeveloped land.

the order depends on your county. in mine, I had to get the driveway permit and have it built FIRST. then I could get a septic and building permit. I did have the ground perked before buying to be sure it could get a septic permit. perking involved digging several holes and filling with water as described above. now, you have to have a soil analysis done.

next I had to put the septic in. then finally, I could put the footers/foundation in. this was the order I had to follow according to my county. i had rural water line so just hooked up to it. elec and water hookup were the last things done. I did have a temp pole put in before delivery because they needed elec at the site to do it. my dad did the final hookup of the water. I hired someone to dig the trench from the water line to the house and we installed the pvc. there were no specific codes to follow other than the trench needed to be below the frost line.

Mel- · #5 08/29/05, 11:14 PM

oh, and I didn't have to have any building inspections since according to the county the manufactured homes are inspected on site before delivery to insure they meet codes.

coalroadcabin · #6 08/30/05, 08:35 AM

We just had our perk test done here -they didn't do the typical "dig a hole and fill it with water" (from what I understand they very rarely do that here anymore) basically we dug 3 holes and soil engineer examined the layers of soil, ran his fingers through it, compared the color - he even sniffed it!!

then he wrote up a report and sized and marked the leach field. $8,000 sounds like a great price to me for a well and septic-I'm budgeting more than that for the well alone. Your local branch of the health dept. should be able to explain all of the proceedures better than I can.

**Cabin Fever** · #7 08/30/05, 12:22 PM

In this day and age it is rare that a county requires a "perc test." Perhaps, perc tests are still required in hillbilly states like Arkansas, Oklahoma, and West Virginia. A perc test is a pretty crude way of determining the permeability of the soil...and provides incorrect information about 50% of the time. Nowadays, at least in environmentally-advanced states, like Minnesota, we require that soil borings or soil pits be used to describe the soil profile and its morphology. This requires the use of a soil scientist or state-trained soil evaluator. By looking at the soil texture, structure and colors, a good evaluator will be able to provide information on site suitability and drainfield or mound sizing. Oftentimes, the determination of "site suitability" is called "perc testing"...even in Minnesota where it is not done...because of old habits.

thedonkeyman · #8 08/30/05, 12:35 PM

We have IRON and who knows what else. PROTECT your whole systems with several FILTERS, a good investment, for your health and that of your pipes. ALSO, put your GREY WATER in another system, NOT your SEPTIC Tank as the DISH water will coat up your drain lines . Your wash water with bleach also should go there along with mouth wash, from your bath room sink. THINK if it kills bacteria then it will kill those good bacteria in your septic tank....

coalroadcabin · #9 08/30/05, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabin Fever

In this day and age it is rare that a county requires a "perc test." Perhaps, perc tests are still required in hillbilly states like Arkansas, Oklahoma, and West Virginia. A perc test is a pretty crude way of determining the permeability of the soil...and provides incorrect information about 50% of the time. Nowadays, at least in environmentally-advanced states, like Minnesota, we require that soil borings or soil pits be used to describe the soil profile and its morphology. This requires the use of a soil scientist or state-trained soil evaluator. By looking at the soil texture, structure and colors, a good evaluator will be able to provide information on site suitability and drainfield or mound sizing. Oftentimes, the determination of "site suitability" is called "perc testing"...even in Minnesota where it is not done...because of old habits.

They still call it a 'perk' test here too.

heather · #10 08/30/05, 04:42 PM

8000 sounds pretty cheap for well AND septic

Our septic was 10300 which is VERY reasonable here and it was the smallest size allowed here

Our well will be about 4000 (maybe a bit less since we hit water sooner than predicted)

Here in PA we had to have our septic permit FIRST,
THEN building permit,
THEN we could build

Obviously, they do it differently everywhere - one of the FUN things about building -

The first thing to do would be do contact your township/town/borough to see what the requirements are

Best wishes

heather · #11 08/30/05, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabin Fever

In this day and age it is rare that a county requires a "perc test." Perhaps, perc tests are still required in hillbilly states

Sheesh, I guess I'm officially a hillbilly now

Karen · #12 08/30/05, 08:04 PM

We have no zoning regulations and very few county requirements. In fact, about the only thing they require is that the land be perked, you pull one permit, and have an adequate size septic & drain field for the size house. You can also share a well with another home (we won't be, however), but not a septic system. Also, about a year ago they passed a law making any type of graywater system illegal in our county.

The home is about 1,800 sq. feet and will be on a permanent foundation so I don't know what size system they will require. Our dealer is handling all this and basically we just want to be sure it's all being done right and know what we should be watching for.

whinnyninny · #13 08/30/05, 08:22 PM

Our septic system (aerobic) cost around $5,000, and we got a quote by a local well drilling company for $2500 for the first 100 ft. (Most wells around here were drilled in the 40's and were a couple hundred feet deep, with some going as deep as 1300 ft...)

**Ross** · #14 08/30/05, 08:30 PM

My boss builds several types of septic systems (converting in my head to USD) they'd run from aroudn 8k for a simple filter bed to close to 20k for a system needing tersiary (sp?) treatment and infiltrators on 3 feet of sand with a mantle as well. 8k USD for both sounds TOO cheap, what are they selling you??!

agmantoo · #15 08/30/05, 08:54 PM

Ross, I can get a conventional 1000 gal US tank with 400 feet of drain field for $2400 turnkey. You guys are too high

**Ross** · #16 08/30/05, 09:05 PM

Installed turnkey or just add machines, labour and sand/gravel ? Septic quality sand is about $100 per load here(still 30 loads is not unrealistic that's 3k its self) , that Made in the USA tank here is about $500 and pipe wouldn't be that much. Yeah he makes money, that is the idea, but he is still competative. A tersiary tank airpump etc. would run ya 5k and you still need the septic tank too. Infiltrators are amazing inventions replaces pipe and an average feild would run ya $700. We haven't even mentioned pumps, pump chambers, electrical hook ups.......... We are definately NOT in the boonies but still it has to work for more than a few years without poluting your well!

agmantoo · #17 08/30/05, 09:18 PM

Ross, the soil here is acceptable as is. No requirement for sand. The tank is $575 plus $50 for a D-box. We use either the infiltrators and no stone or the perforated corrugated pipe and washed stone. Since fuel prices has escalated there is no difference in the price of the two since stone hauling is higher than previous. NOTE, when the infiltrators are used we are permitted to reduce the drain field by 25%. The installer will arrive at around 8:30 AM and have everything ready for the inspector by noon. Once the inspection is complete everything is covered and smoothed and the installer will leave by 3:30 PM at the latest. Total costs $2400. All I have to do is seed the area.

Hank - Narita · #18 08/30/05, 10:30 PM

We had a perk test 3 years ago in the desert. Guess the county needed the money. They did take samples from several different areas. We live on 78 acres; had to perk somewhere.

Alex · #19 08/30/05, 11:35 PM

This is a Standard-Old-Fashioned Perc Test method, adopted in many areas:

Dig a hole 12" x 12" by 4'-0" deep
Fill wil water three times and let drain
Fill a fourth time
Put a ruler or stick in the hole, mark off one-inch lines
Measure the time in minutes it takes for the water to drop one-inch

The average one-inch reading is the perc-rate in minutes, for instance, 5 or 15 minutes, etc., per inch.

Then based on your area's published septic tank requirements for number of people and number of bathrooms or other fixtures, then a certain tank size is required, and a certain length of drain field is need for a certain perc rate.

Certainly there are many other ways to dispose of the septic tank fluid: holding tanks and pump out, pressurized mound systems, and others.

You must follow your area's published perc test methods, the above is an example only.

Good Luck,

Alex