Brick Walkway - Homesteading Today
You are Unregistered, please register to use all of the features of Homesteading Today!    
Homesteading Today

Go Back   Homesteading Today > General Homesteading Forums > Homesteading Questions


Like Tree15Likes

Reply
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
  #1  
Unread 07/04/15, 09:50 AM
SM Entrepreneuraholic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 9,568
Brick Walkway

There is a brick walkway at the rear of my house that is probably about 35 years old (built by previous owner). It has held up pretty good, but now the bricks are starting to come loose. There is a slope from right to left in picture, and the sand and gravel are no longer holding. Another problem is that the weeds continue to grow between the bricks even if I spray every couple of months. You can see a little of the house foundation on the left. I estimate the drop from the foundation to the bottom of the fig tree to be close to 2'.

So I need some ideas.
  • How can I rebuild the walkway so that it doesn't slide down the slope?
  • When I dig it up, do I need gravel on top of the weed barrier or just sand?
  • Should I stick with just sand between the bricks as it is now, or brush Quikrete between the bricks and then wet it down? That would mostly solve the weed problem.
The bricks are in fairly good shape and most can be reused,

Brick Walkway - Homesteading Questions
__________________
Rich
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Unread 07/04/15, 10:30 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
From looking at your picture I can see two approaches you can go with first you could build a retaining wall on the down slip side then build up behind it with a paper sand compacted to were it is approximately 2" deep. Or, if you want to keep the natural slip there you need to build the ground up again with the sand and you can either use concrete to make an edge to lock in the edge brick or there is a plastic edging that you could use that is locked in with 12" spikes. For between the bricks I use a poly sand shock once you have it down and placed into the cracks you wet it and it will harden to help lock the bricks together as well as prevent weeds.
Tricky Grama likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Unread 07/04/15, 01:58 PM
Bearfootfarm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 34,237
I'd do little retaining wall on the low side by driving in a row of rebar or galvanized pipe to support a treated 2 X 8, and then refill with sand on which to set the bricks.
__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Unread 07/04/15, 05:18 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
Posts: 10,815
That was a nicely thought out walk, sitting elevated with a crown to minimize water, frost, and spalling. I'd skip the quickcrete. Weeds grow in walks. A propane dragon or roundup is pretty easy. Poly sand sounds like a good way to minimize the work.
haypoint likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Unread 07/04/15, 06:22 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 424
You appear to have a good gravel base. I would just do the weed barrier and sand on top because you will need to work the sand as you go to keep things sloped the way you want (or to keep it level if that is how you are going.). I have one of those about the same age from a prior owner I am going to be taking completely out. I will reuse the bricks as edging somewhere or the other.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Unread 07/05/15, 06:06 AM
Tricky Grama's Avatar  
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: N. E. TX
Posts: 29,602
5% vinegar on the weeds in the sun will keep the weeds away.
And every time you finish a jar of pickles, go pour the juice on the weed area.
mousebandit likes this.
__________________
My book is out! Go 'like' it on FB:
http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Goo...83553391747680
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Unread 07/05/15, 08:41 AM
GREENCOUNTYPETE's Avatar
Moderator
HST_MODERATOR.png
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: WISCONSIN
Posts: 6,700
how much space do you have to the right side of the picture ?

if you had the space , I would pull the bricks up come through with the skid steer and cut that path the with if the bucket wide about 6 feet stay a good 6 inches away from your stacked stones on the left to not disturb them and 6 inches deep moving all that fill to the right in piles just out of the way then come in with crushed limestone and a walk behind compacter and make the crsuhed stone compacted grade 2 inches lower than the current grade and extend the crushed limes stone over to the right about 2 feet further than the walk if you give it any grade besides level I would go about 1/2 inch in 5 feet

I have never used the poly sand it may be worth a little research

using a locking channel it used to be angle iron or metal edging but now they make poly products that work well cost less don't break down here is an example with a nice diagram http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdf...9a3db78ef5.pdf

as you set your brick use some small spacers little shims of wood to get a nice even spacing , you lay them and do not walk on them thsi si where you bring in the sand

you can used finely crushed limestone if the pavers can take the compression but I am not sure yours would hold up to that they are not concrete they are brick

you don't need sand uner a paver if they are flat but if they vary you can trowel out some sand but do not go deep 1/4 inch to max 1/2 inch it is there to be a cushion and leveler the more you have the more easily it can flow out and leave you eleven stones dampening the sand helps it to settle and trowel smooth easily

so for you sand or maybe this poly sand like I said I don't know of that product

add sand and spread it so that you are about 1/2 over the hole section of walk this is when you pull your shims all out if you have not already then you lay pieces of ply wood 7/16 , half ,whatever you can get as scrap and you run the compactor over the ply wood that is over the sand and pavers , the compactor run just over the pavers runs the risk of breaking them and


run the compactor back and forth moving the plywood helps to have 3 peices and a partner moving the next one ahead of you , I would also be getting gravel in to the left of the pavers between the stacked rocks and the edge of the pavers and get that compacted
to the right I would come about 1/3 of the way up the pavers with the grushed lime stone and compact that on the outside of the edging

some other things I can't see from the picture, your house is to the left does it have gutters on that side , if It does I would dig and ad pvc pipe under the walk before I put down the crushed lime stone so that I created a path for the down spouts to empty into and be carried part way down the slope , rain isn't likely to be heavy enough to wash your sand away if there is very little slope but down spouts are hard on any path or concrete


once I got 2 feet to the right of the path I would use the rest of the left over fill to blend that slope back in so that your getting at least 2 inches in 10 feet but try for not too steep as it is hard to get grass to grow if it is washing way blending being the goal and not any sharp change that a mower would get caught on

added notes , call digers hotline a week befre you start , and if you don't have skid steer lots of farms have them , heck even the amish farms here have a skid steer your likely to be able to hire out the skid steer work as it is basically a half day or one day thing to cut your path and haul in the crushed lime stone, a guy who knows his machine can do good work quick , and if he is used to running it in confined spaces like cleaning barns with it he should know where his corners are and avoid hitting things



I just went back and re-read your post , you say 2 foot frop to th fig try on right , I change my answer just a bit to a stack block retaining wall on the right , how much of one will depend on your space I still think about 12-18 inches of flat or near flat to the right of the walk if possible before the retaining wall this is provided you can't just build the area up and slope it farther from the walk , it will deepend again on how much space , and I don't know anything about fig trees and if they can be moved or if it hurts to build up the soil around them if you have the space but don't want to move the fig a stack block retaining wall to keep the walk near the fig but leave the fig would cut costs on block making a 6 foot semi circle about 4 blocks high at it's highest for these make sure to dig down 6 inches below the bottom of the wall and use crushed lime stone and the compacter to make a good base set yout block in the middle of the base and fill the back sides with the gravel it drains better and won't heave the stones compact level with the top of the block then add then next layer and repeat till you have the grade your looking for
fordy likes this.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Unread 07/05/15, 12:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 424
To be honest, if that were mine, the most I would do is pull, level and reset the three rows closest to the drop off. I kind of like the rustic feel of what is there but would give it a little maintenance to keep those ones from breaking apart. The one I have that I am going to pull out is a path to nowhere. Before the carport was enclosed, it came out and then led to somewhere in the backyard the owners wanted it to go. To me now, it is just a path that runs from a wall to nowhere that makes sense for my use of the land.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Unread 07/05/15, 04:08 PM
Bearfootfarm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Eastern North Carolina
Posts: 34,237
Quote:
To be honest, if that were mine, the most I would do is pull, level and reset the three rows closest to the drop off.
That's what I'd do also.

It's not too labor intensive, and wouldn't involve any equipment and little expense
Declan likes this.
__________________
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Unread 07/05/15, 08:34 PM
GREENCOUNTYPETE's Avatar
Moderator
HST_MODERATOR.png
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: WISCONSIN
Posts: 6,700
well if were going to be honest I haven't got the time for it , to many other irons in the fire , it doesn't look that bad and if it keeps the mud down it's doing it's job , get some grass to grow to the right on the slope to slow the slide , and make sure to get the water from the down spouts across the path so that they don't wash it down the slope
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Unread 07/06/15, 09:52 AM
SM Entrepreneuraholic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 9,568
Thanks for all the great ideas. I'd like to fix it once and be done with it.

Right now, I'm thinking I will pull up all the bricks so I can give them a good cleaning. I want to make sure all dirt has been removed so there is no place for weeds to get a start.

Once the bricks are up, I think I will be able to see a little better what I need to do to stabilize the drop off. I'm also going to leave off the rightmost row of bricks, since they are where most of the problem is. I need some spare bricks anyway. I'm leaning toward pressure treated lumber and rebar for stabilization.

I'll grade the pathway and fill in any low spots. Then add 2" of sand on top. Then bricks. And then sweep poly sand between the bricks and moisten.

Hopefully this will gave me a walkway that is stable and won't have any weeds.
__________________
Rich
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Unread 07/06/15, 10:39 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 424
You are going to have weeds regardless. I have that same soft crab grass growing in the seam between my driveway and side door. The stuff doesn't need much to survive and the holes in the brick will trap dirt and such anyways.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Unread 07/06/15, 10:57 AM
SM Entrepreneuraholic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 9,568
Quote:
Originally Posted by Declan View Post
You are going to have weeds regardless. I have that same soft crab grass growing in the seam between my driveway and side door. The stuff doesn't need much to survive and the holes in the brick will trap dirt and such anyways.
I'm going to fill the holes with poly sand.
Declan likes this.
__________________
Rich
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Unread 07/06/15, 11:15 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 20
Re: Retaining walls

Pressure treated 2x6 and 2x8 lumber that you buy at Home Depot type stores will rot in a few years. Read the label stuck on the end of each board. It says "Not for ground contact".

They stopped making lumber (other than 4x4s and other heavy timbers) that lasts if you have it in contact with the ground.

Those 8-ft. landscape timbers that you can buy don't last either. Incredibly, they are also NOT intended for contact with the ground. (How is a landscape timber supposed to not contact the ground?)

The manufacturers "voluntarily" stopped using the chemicals that worked years ago.

It made the EPA happy . . . and they get to sell you more lumber every few years.

Some details:

----------------

On December 31, 2003, the U.S. wood treatment industry stopped treating residential lumber with arsenic and chromium (chromated copper arsenate, or CCA). This was a voluntary agreement with the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

CCA was replaced by copper-based pesticides, with exceptions for certain industrial uses.

CCA may still be used for outdoor products like utility trailer beds and non-residential construction like piers, docks, and agricultural buildings.

Industrial wood preservation chemicals are generally not available directly to the public and may require special approval to import or purchase depending on the product and the jurisdiction where being used.

-----------------
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Unread 07/06/15, 11:33 AM
SM Entrepreneuraholic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 9,568
Quote:
Originally Posted by NRA_guy View Post
Re: Retaining walls

Pressure treated 2x6 and 2x8 lumber that you buy at Home Depot type stores will rot in a few years. Read the label stuck on the end of each board. It says "Not for ground contact".

They stopped making lumber (other than 4x4s and other heavy timbers) that lasts if you have it in contact with the ground.

Those 8-ft. landscape timbers that you can buy don't last either. Incredibly, they are also NOT intended for contact with the ground. (How is a landscape timber supposed to not contact the ground?)

The manufacturers "voluntarily" stopped using the chemicals that worked years ago.

It made the EPA happy . . . and they get to sell you more lumber every few years.

Some details:

----------------

On December 31, 2003, the U.S. wood treatment industry stopped treating residential lumber with arsenic and chromium (chromated copper arsenate, or CCA). This was a voluntary agreement with the United States Environmental Protection Agency.

CCA was replaced by copper-based pesticides, with exceptions for certain industrial uses.

CCA may still be used for outdoor products like utility trailer beds and non-residential construction like piers, docks, and agricultural buildings.

Industrial wood preservation chemicals are generally not available directly to the public and may require special approval to import or purchase depending on the product and the jurisdiction where being used.

-----------------
Thanks. I will use plastic if I can find it.
__________________
Rich
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Unread 07/09/15, 10:06 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,728
I'd spray a soil sterilizer once a year and call it good.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Unread 07/24/15, 05:54 PM
SM Entrepreneuraholic
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Southern Virginia
Posts: 9,568
It took me 2 weeks, but I finally finished. I pulled all the bricks up, used a hammer and an old drill bit to clean out the holes, soaked the bricks in water with oxy clean, and then brushed them off.

The bricks had been laid on a dirt and gravel base, so I scraped a couple of inches off and used that to build up the hill on the right side. Lowe's has 4x4 landscape timbers that are rated for ground contact, so I used those on the right side to hold the walkway in place. I used 1' long pieces of rebar to hold them in place.

I used regular sand. I had to keep walking back and forth on the walkway and the bricks were sliding around, so I put regular sand down so I could walk on it to finish the job. I've got 2 tubs of poly sand that I hope to put down after the sand settles a little more. I figure a couple of good rains will wash some of the sand out and then I will top off with poly.

I also added a drainage tube under the walkway on the closest end. The far end already had one. I think it was a little over 700 bricks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg walkwayafter.jpg (70.8 KB, 0 views)
__________________
Rich
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Unread 07/25/15, 06:21 PM
GREENCOUNTYPETE's Avatar
Moderator
HST_MODERATOR.png
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: WISCONSIN
Posts: 6,700
looks good , improving the drainage of the gutters will likely keep it lasting longer
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Unread 07/25/15, 08:28 PM
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: north Alabama
Posts: 10,815
Now it just needs a little more...

SHRUBBERY!!!

Reply With Quote
  #20  
Unread 07/28/15, 11:19 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 26
Looks awesome and should last you may years
Reply With Quote
Reply



Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fenced in the walkway Danaus29 Poultry 3 03/18/10 05:27 PM
Thin Brick, or... how to find brick veneer... seedspreader Homesteading Questions 9 10/30/05 01:27 PM
Need a lazy walkway suelandress Gardening & Plant Propagation 1 08/28/05 02:02 PM
walkway material??? Queen Bee Homesteading Questions 9 04/29/05 06:08 PM
elevated walkway Sparticle Shop Talk 2 03/12/05 07:52 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:32 PM.
Contact Us - Homesteading Today - Archive - Privacy Statement - Top - ©Carbon Media Group Agriculture