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  #1  
Old 02/23/15, 01:58 PM
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Vertical Tine Tillers

Is anyone familiar with the new Cub Cadet and Troy Built vertical tine tillers on the market? Are they better or worse for soil health than rear tine tillers? I have a small market farm and do most of my soil prep with a tractor, discs, and a chisel plow. However, during the season I often need to work on a single bed turning a cover crop over to prepare for planting. For single bed preparation I need a smaller tiller of some kind. I would appreciate any insight. Thanks.
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Old 02/23/15, 02:17 PM
 
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Got a pic??
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Old 02/23/15, 02:25 PM
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neat


troy
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  #4  
Old 02/23/15, 02:36 PM
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Reminds me of the Gravely setup. Best implement for incorporating a standing crop and not destroying soil structure is a spader.

Vertical Tine Tillers - Homesteading Questions

If you tried this with a tiller, you'd spend most of your time cutting stuff off that wrapped around the tines. A spader buries/incorporates the cover crop.

Vertical Tine Tillers - Homesteading Questions
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Old 02/23/15, 03:02 PM
 
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That looks like the old Gravely setup
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  #6  
Old 02/23/15, 03:04 PM
 
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I see clumps of grass that are going to need to be raked out.
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  #7  
Old 02/23/15, 03:10 PM
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What would those do if they hit rocks? I have a regular walk-behind cub cadet to do my heavy tilling. It will break up lawn and pasture grass just fine in my sandy-ish soil. I can run it with one hand. Mine costf almost $800. How much are these new tillers?
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  #8  
Old 02/23/15, 05:22 PM
 
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Tillage of any kind is not kind to the soil. Soil does not need to be reconstituted.

I am biased, because I believe in no tillage practices, and heavy duty MULCHING. Low labor and good for the soil...

Sorry, ETA. I would go with a vertical tine tiller if I had to use tillage.
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  #9  
Old 02/23/15, 05:42 PM
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By the way- Welcome to the forum! Great question for your first post.
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  #10  
Old 02/23/15, 06:35 PM
 
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Callie, they said they turn opposite of each other. Likely same thing happen to them as to a regular tiller.
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  #11  
Old 02/23/15, 06:56 PM
 
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Cover sod with 4" of composted manure and then 6" of straw. After a few weeks you can rake this aside and plant. When plants are large enough put mulch back around them. If weeds come up throw a flake of straw over them. Most of the time the soil will be loose enough to plant with little work. Reduces weeding time to nill and conserves water.
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Old 02/24/15, 05:14 AM
 
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Interesting. Now if Troy-Bilt would just make it adaptable to the same power unit as I have already on my Horse, I would think about it. But not buy another whole unit....

geo
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  #13  
Old 02/24/15, 07:54 AM
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You are still breaking up soil structure like any roto tiller does.

I like the way they demonstrate in rock free soil .................
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  #14  
Old 02/24/15, 08:59 AM
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The conventional tiller will bounce over rocks

The counter rotation tiller will jam if a rock is to big to pass through.
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Old 02/24/15, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny Dolittle View Post
The conventional tiller will bounce over rocks

The counter rotation tiller will jam if a rock is to big to pass through.
I was thinking the same thing.

I think it would work great on ground that has already been worked and cleared, but new ground?

For my garden, we cut down all trees, dug/pulled the stumps we could, ground down the rest as deep as we could, and them BIL went over it MANY times with a King Kutter tiller. What was left behind was a blue million pieces of ROOTS up to the size of a baseball bat that I'm quite sure would have stopped one of those vertical tillers dead in their tracks.
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  #16  
Old 02/24/15, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerDale View Post
Tillage of any kind is not kind to the soil. Soil does not need to be reconstituted.

I am biased, because I believe in no tillage practices, and heavy duty MULCHING. Low labor and good for the soil...
Some people are biased against tilling of any kind. Me - I've tilled for 40+ years and my dad and Grandpa before me, never had a problem. I usually till in leaves, compost, manure, etc
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  #17  
Old 02/24/15, 10:19 AM
 
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In the plot I gardened in last year, which was 5 stones to 1 dirt, I'd have been jamming that thing up every couple of inches.

I have a standard rear tine tiller. I kinda like it as a quick pass over just before I'm ready to plant but it's very easy to over do it.
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  #18  
Old 02/24/15, 10:28 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FarmboyBill View Post
Callie, they said they turn opposite of each other. Likely same thing happen to them as to a regular tiller.
Sorry Bill but no.
Those counter rotating tines are pulling everything into them
I asked the question about rocks on the YouTube site for the Cub Cadet tiller.
I really want to see what they say.
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  #19  
Old 02/24/15, 11:14 AM
 
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yep, your right rusty. Guess theres shear pins built in it
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  #20  
Old 02/24/15, 11:20 AM
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Also ... the example is rock free sod and the grass has been mowed and removed.

I would like to see how tangle free it is when used to till in a mature cover crop.

... otherwise vertical tillage is mostly a good idea if crop residue is left on top
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