Windbreaks

[hopefulinohio]

When we moved farther out of town this year I was not prepared for the wind we would get. It's much flatter and open and rips right across our property. Most of our neighbors have windbreaks planted of various pines but they're all close to the houses. Our house sits further off the road in the center of our square 5 acres. We would like to put a windbreak along the road on the inside of our fence but will it be effective? It's approx 300 feet or less from the house. It will be in addition to the 2 large maples in the front yard. Just trying to buffer to a point not something intense. Along those lines any good suggestions for trees? Something nice looking with predictable growth as it will be along a fence and power lines that run along the road. Lines are approx 6 feet from the fence. Good soil. Former corn field years ago. Pasture now.

[Declan]

Lot of people in my area use Leyland cypress because they are fast growing, can be bunched closer together, and somewhat compact horizontally (the grow up much faster than they grow out). Our city planted them along the railway right of way for noise abatement too. At the house I grew up in we just planted cedar trees. Similar to cypress but the grow very slow. They at least can be gotten free just by walking around digging them up in our area.

[Convoy]

here in Alberta we use anything from pines to poplars but also put bushes like caragana to protect the trees since the wind can topple trees in a good windstorm that aren't protected. The only downside is they don't block wind more than half their height and in the winter tend to drift snow so most keep them away from driveways etc. Same reason that most people that plant trees along the west side of their driveways always come to regret it when they have to move snow.

[farmmaid]

Canadian Hemlocks...............

[1shotwade]

Around here everyone uses whit pine,unless you are trying to also increase wildlife habitat.In that case many use white cedar.I think a combination of the two would be best. As mentioned the windbreak trees also need a windbreak.There is lots of info from major universities and county extension office etc.
Most prefer building a "air ramp" that makes the wind lift over the windbreak area. I think you will find the break will have to be much closer than 300 feet.
Wade

[sassafras manor]

A proper windbreak will be a "ramp" as previously mentioned and include a variety of textures along the way to eleminate the potential for "blowouts"

[Savrens]

The science of windbreaks;

http://www.extension.iastate.edu/for...les/PM1716.pdf

[GeneMO]

Go to your local FSA office, consult with the NRCS folks, maybe you have a county Soil Water Conservation district like we do. Anyway, those folks or the University extension service.

They will have guides that will show you diagrams, types of trees, spacings, etc. In many states, Missouri for example, we can buy trees for next to free from the Department of Conservation.

Use only trees and shrubs adapted for the area. Plus if done right, you can plant species that will provide shelter and berries for the wildlife. Beware any type of invasive species. (Autumn Olive comes to mind)

If you put a windbreak in the wrong location, wrong distance from the driveway, it will "dump" the snow right in your driveway. Pretty discouraging when you get a 2" snow, but the windbreak causes the wind to drop about 3 feet in the driveway.

The nicer trees will take 15 years to start doing much good. some shrubs grow faster.

Gene (6,000 trees planted and counting)

[1shotwade]

I agree with the autumn olive. A neighbor planted them for the wildlife back in the 70s and we are still fighting them today. Not all that will be recommended to you will be a good Idea!

Wade

[Declan]

Ornamental grasses work okay at the 5-6foot level. I got some variegated rattlesnake grass (kind of like pompous grass but with crow's foot like seed stalks instead of the big fluffy ones) and have used it to underplant tree along the property lines--sort of an organic fence and also keeps the surface wind down. The stuff is a pain in the butt to divide, but once you get it, you can keep dividing it every 3 years or so until you have more than you ever wanted.

[jewlz64]

http://forestry.ohiodnr.gov/portals/...reaksguide.pdf

This might have some info & ideas you find useful. My state's forest service sells trees & collections at subsidized rates this year, perhaps you have similar programs.

HTH

j

[karenp]

Inside the fence? Is it pasture? If you have animals wouldn't you want it outside the fence?

[Michael W. Smith]

Keep in mind that windbreaks also block your view of the landscape.

If you can see mountains and hills now, you won't be able to because the trees block your view. I guess you have to decide which is more important - the view or trying to block the wind.

[Freeholder]

An effective windbreak will need to be much more than just one row of trees, so you might as well use the space wisely, and include food plants in it! Fruit and nut trees, shrubs, and vines, even ground-covers that like forest conditions, would all be good choices. Also consider the firewood or lumber value of everything you plant. Trees die eventually, or blow down, or just need to be thinned or pruned, and it would be nice if the wood was good for firewood when that happens.

Kathleen

[mulemom]

Like GeneMo said check with your local extension office. Ours used to have several designs for windbreaks and also offered low cost seedlings every spring. Do a little research on your own about the species recommended. I remember when ours recommended Autumn Olive and wild rose-both of which are very invasive. You also don't want anything that flowers heavily if you have a family member who is allergic to bee stings.

[palm farmer]

Here at the farm I use bamboo, clumping not running, but we also dig a major portion of it each year for sales, else where I have used various oaks and even citrus trees on some landscaping jobs

[Tricky Grama]

We have used cedars, they grow fast.

[Convoy]

Originally Posted by farmmaid

Canadian Hemlocks...............

They don't survive. We are kinda limited to trees since they need to put up with the wind, drought and the freeze thaw cycle we get in the winter from chinooks.

[hopefulinohio]

The view thankfully we are not worried about. Just a corn field across from us. I would put them outside the fence except the power lines run right there. Hedges may be would go outside the fence and the trees on the inside. Our fruit trees will more than likely go behind whatever evergreen we go with. Quick growing would be a bonus but I don't want brittle trees or shallow root systems that sometimes go with them. I'd like to put in blueberry bushes. Would western exposure in front of the break be enough for them?

[spur]

Take the above mentioned advise and check with your local extension office before you plant your windbreak. Be especially careful of planting any pine trees in a straight line for a windbreak. In a straight line pine trees are too efficient at slowing the wind, they 'catch' nearly as much wind as a sail on a boat. You may get up one morning and find your whole row of beautiful pines flat on the ground with big chunks of root ball behind them. It is much better to plant them in staggered rows so they help support each other or if you do plant in a single row go like three pines then some kind of a leafed tree to cut down on the built up pressure behind the windbreak. Make use of your tax dollars that pay for the extension agents that test these different windbreaks.