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Post By farmerDale
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Post By rambler
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12/03/14, 01:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 16,331
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Question about planting Zones
I just saw a seed catalog that had a map of the US saying that Okla was in zone 7. I always thought almost all IF not all of it was in zone 8. Whats your thoughts.
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12/03/14, 02:06 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: N.E. OK
Posts: 2,292
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I am up north of you and we are zone 6b (ish) you are more like 6a. okc is zone 7.
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12/03/14, 03:07 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northeastern Oklahoma
Posts: 5,021
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The source I looked at when I first joined here said I was in 6B Bill, so I'd think you are too, but I think it also depends on what source you use. I've noticed there's a discrepancy and have seen 6A, 6B or even 7, but I've never seen 8 anywhere.
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12/03/14, 03:40 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,971
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There are many different sources who make up zones. Up here, most go by minimum winter temp. which to me is a silly way to do it, because once the soil is covered with snow, while it may freeze, it never gets to be very cold. I think moisture availability should count more, soil types, etc. I think maximum SUMMER temp is FAR more important than minimum winter temp.
Heck, we grow some zone 5 stuff and it winters fine, and we are a zone 1 to 3 depending on which source you use. If a zone 5 item is a perennial, its root stock is well protected by the insulating snow.
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12/03/14, 03:41 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,206
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12/03/14, 10:59 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northeastern Oklahoma
Posts: 5,021
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It's actually five, there's a tiny little corner in the northwest panhandle that's a darker green than the rest, or at least it looks like it to me. 
According to that, I'm a 7a, so guess I need to readjust my thinking, lol. I did move about 40 miles southwest right after I joined here and just never looked it up again, guess that was just enough to put me in a different zone. Thanks George! Hmm, maybe I'm not technically Northeastern Oklahoma any more either, lol! But I don't know what else to call it so guess I'll leave it be.
Dale, that makes more sense to me too, but they'd have to take the most recent few years into consideration when figuring ours. Our temps have gotten quite a bit hotter and stayed that way more consistently in the summer, although this summer wasn't bad at all. For the couple of summers before that, it was so hot that the plants would flower but wouldn't set fruit and eventually burned up, no matter how much you watered. Crazy weather! 
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12/03/14, 11:52 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Alaska
Posts: 225
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I admit I've been curious how the zones work. Is there a FAQ about the, or a guide somewhere?
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12/04/14, 01:59 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: MN
Posts: 7,610
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Never really worried about zone, or cared what I was in.
We consider growing degree days and the days to maturity for the crops I grow, the zone deal is irrelevant.
Only really ever hear mention of it on this ste.
No wrong or right, just how things are different in different circles. 
Paul
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12/04/14, 02:16 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Northeastern Oklahoma
Posts: 5,021
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Well, I was a city girl most of my life and the most I ever grew were tomatoes, okra, peppers, and squash before moving to the country eight years ago.
I was also teased most of my life for having a black thumb...I could even kill household ivy for pete's sake. I figured I needed all the help I could get, lol. I've mostly just used it when ordering seeds and plants, like when they say something won't grow in zone such and such, although I am getting braver and more confident about my abilities these days and trying new things.
Zimobog, I have no clue, but someone will probably come along and give you some dandy sites.
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12/04/14, 05:44 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerDale
There are many different sources who make up zones. Up here, most go by minimum winter temp. which to me is a silly way to do it, because once the soil is covered with snow, while it may freeze, it never gets to be very cold. I think moisture availability should count more, soil types, etc. I think maximum SUMMER temp is FAR more important than minimum winter temp.
Heck, we grow some zone 5 stuff and it winters fine, and we are a zone 1 to 3 depending on which source you use. If a zone 5 item is a perennial, its root stock is well protected by the insulating snow.
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Here's the Canadian Hardiness site. It does include moisture, snow cover, etc, in the links: The math formula is more than I can decipher. http://www.planthardiness.gc.ca/index.pl
geo
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12/04/14, 05:48 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimobog
I admit I've been curious how the zones work. Is there a FAQ about the, or a guide somewhere?
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Yes, the actual USDA site has links that tell how it was made and the details included, mostly in the ABOUT link. Basically it is average minimum winter temperature, computer tweaked to allow for local variations, like elevation, closeness to the ocean, etc.
geo
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12/04/14, 06:00 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambler
Never really worried about zone, or cared what I was in.
We consider growing degree days and the days to maturity for the crops I grow, the zone deal is irrelevant.
Only really ever hear mention of it on this ste.
No wrong or right, just how things are different in different circles.
Paul |
Yes, it has most to do with average lowest winter temperature, which is good knowlege for perennial plants, shrubs, and trees. Good to know for grape, blueberry, and grape growers--there are certain varieties for the zones, and what grows(and survives) in one zone may not last in another. But for corn and other annual crops, yes, growing degree days--plus average days of first and last frosts might be more useful, since days to maturity would have to fit inside those parameters.
geo
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12/04/14, 09:11 AM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Fl Zones 11
Posts: 8,123
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Technically we were in zone 9 when we married, but our microclimate is now 11 (City S FL East Coast) Our lake cabin was 9B its now zone 10 but officially still listed as 9B. But our neighbor has macadamia, mangoes and cashews, all zone 10 plants. His daughter lives 2 lakes (15 miles) away, her microclimate is 8B. She can't even raise citrus because of being in a frost pocket.
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12/04/14, 09:50 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Saskatchewan
Posts: 2,971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geo in mi
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There are so many maps out there, and they always seem to be changing. I am not sure how they can include moisture in a zone map. Often the warmer areas of Canada, at least in the west, are MUCH dryer. Lotsa scenarios. Tough to make a map!!!
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12/04/14, 10:19 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alabama (east central)
Posts: 3,111
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I used to practically obsess over what will "officially" grow/thrive in my zone (8B), but, for the most part, I don't anymore. First/last frost dates and keeping a crop's heat sensitivity in mind is now mostly what I go by.
Of course, if I were planning on fruit trees, cooling degree days would come into play.
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12/05/14, 02:15 PM
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Join Date: May 2002
Location: Fl Zones 11
Posts: 8,123
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Hippygirl- For apples, all coolhours do is synchronize bloom, fruit set and harvest. You can ignore the chill hours and then your tree may have bloom and green and ripe fruit on it all at the same time. Not such a problem for the homesteader. You can get an ebook about growing apples in hot climates from www.kuffelcreek.com
Unfortunately, stone fruits do demand their chill hours.
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