threading twine on a manual tie big baler

[3acres]

I'm a little stumped on how to thread the twine on a manual tie big round baler.....especially the part where it goes into the hay going into the baler to start the wrapping and how it gets cut. I think I have the beginning part right. Anybody have a picture or know where I can find one on how it's done?

I got an online manual for it and it doesn't have how to do it in there. I should of had the guy I got it from show me, but didn't think finding out how to do it would be a problem. I can't find out how any where and have no one to ask.

It's an International 241. I've read a lot of bad on them. I got it cheap. I know nothing about big balers....excited to start in learning about them. I knew nothing of small square balers and bought a non-working John Deere 14t 3 years ago....took me 30 some days straight to get it to work....brought in lots of loose hay in that time!!!!.... ...learned a lot about it though!

[rambler]

No experience with that brand, but generally there is a twine ball holder, and some rings or slots for the twine to come to the front twine tube, maybe a tensioner to go through along the way (metal clamp with a spring on it). Feed the twine down the tube and let a couple inches hange out.

When its time to wrap twine, the tube swings down into the area hay feeds in, and the hay catches the part dangling out and wraps around.

When the arm swings back to home position, there is a sharp bit of knife blade the twine rubs across and someplace maybe on the top end of the tube that squeezes the twine to hold it, the twine gets cut on the sharp knife blade.

Most all brands I've seen work like this, but.....

Paul

[poorboy]

Take apiece of #9 wire and bend you a small hook on the end. push this through the twine tube that swins back and forth from the BALE end tie your string to it after theading through the guides up to the swinging arm(tube) and pull through tube , has to go under clamp at tube end..It's really simple no one taught me but the used baler I bought Had the aforementioned homade tool riding in one of the large springs on the tube side..

[Yvonne's hubby]

I happen to have an international 241 that I use to roll a few acres every year with. Feed your twine up through the tube in the lid of the twine box... from there it goes under a little flat bar held in place with a couple of bolts with springs. Thats your tension setting. Its located about a foot from the twine box on the right hand side. from there run the end of the twine under the pivot mechanism and through a white porcelain twine guide located just to the right of the twine tube. run it from the bottom up thru that and then up thru the twine tube. The little wire trick mentioned above really helps with this. leave about 8 inches or so hanging out the upper end of the tube to catch in the hay when you start tying. The problems I had when I first got mine was getting the hay to suck in the bottom and starting the roll to form. It would pile up in the chamber and the top belts would not turn to start the roll. I soon discovered that belt dressing was required on those belts every morning when starting out. I get some cheap belt dressing from a local industrial supply store... start the machine and open the back gate about a foot until the belts tighten and begin to turn, then spray it on the inside of the belts, one at a time till they have rolled all the way round, then spray the next one same way till all have a light coating. One can will do the job a couple of times. I only roll about 25 rolls or so on my field per cutting so usually one can is enough for both cuttings.

Tip.... when tying a roll your tractor is parked... make sure if your tractor has the exhaust running out the back under the tractor that your not blowing hot exhaust into the windrow you are straddling. This can result in setting your nice dry hay on fire. More importantly.... if you do set a small fire do NOT move forward and suck the tiny bit of fire and more hay into the machine thinking you can snuff the fire out that way!! You will end up with a five by five round ball of fire behind you in the machine slinging bits of fire everywhere! You really dont need to ask how I know this. LOL

[3acres]

Thanks everyone! I greatly appreciate it! I definitely got a better understanding of it and I believe I have it right because of all your help!











I tried it for the first time out on the battle field today.

I tried all kinds of things and couldn't get it going. This is as much as it would take in before plugging. I guess I'm on the list now of people that have trouble getting the hay started.... Frustrating for sure!




Hopefully I can get it to bale. I have more hay to do than I have small square bale storage.

[FarmboyBill]

What hp tractor are you using?

[Yvonne's hubby]

Ok, it looks like you are having the same problem I had. I got hold of some spray on belt dressing and hit the upper belts with it. solved my problem. You can also play with the dump gate and get it to spin sometimes. just crack it open about 7 or 8 inches, let it suck in more hay then close it again. About half the time that will kick it over enough to get the roll spinning.

[3acres]

Originally Posted by FarmboyBill

What hp tractor are you using?

Well, I'm using a Farmall M. Is it big enough? It's the only tractor I have at the moment. Someday I'll have a bigger tractor, but it might be awhile. Might be stretching it, but I really need to get to where I'm doing my own big bales and seen where people have used M's to run their 241. ??? I don't know though, this equipment/mechanical stuff is all new to me. I don't have any experience with this stuff and have nobody to ask........

It seems like it will run it just fine once I get the hay to keep from clogging. It would instantly just start to ball up right there on the pick-up teeth...like I didn't even have the baler on. I tried small windows, bigger ones, going fast, slow....the pic above was probably the most it even took in.

With the equipment I have gathered the last couple years, I expect some frustration out on the hay field....lol. I only have just under $2000 all together in the tractor, sickle bar mower, rake, 14t small square baler, this 241 big baler, a hay wagon for small squares and big bale mover that pulls behind about anything. I am learning a lot on how to keep everything going!

[3acres]

Originally Posted by Yvonne's hubby

Ok, it looks like you are having the same problem I had. I got hold of some spray on belt dressing and hit the upper belts with it. solved my problem. You can also play with the dump gate and get it to spin sometimes. just crack it open about 7 or 8 inches, let it suck in more hay then close it again. About half the time that will kick it over enough to get the roll spinning.

Thanks! I meant to mention that belt dressing you said worked for you .....I appreciate you mentioning it! I'm trying some of it and I'm going to put something on that front roller today and hit it again. I'll be baling everyday here until at least Sunday. ..going to keep trying stuff!

If I ever get a bale made...lol....do I dump it out with the belts moving or shut the pto down before I kick it out?

I bet that was crazy when that fire started!...I can't imagine! A fire starting out there while baling is something I definitely worry about!

[FarmboyBill]

What size bale does the bailer make, or what size can it make?

[rambler]

Here is some more thoughts on a 241:

http://www.ssbtractor.com/wwwboard/v...rmall&msg=3156

The ag supply mail order places, Shoup, Central Tractor (formerly Valu-Bilt), and others sell a sticky rubber wrap tape to put on that roller to help out.

I've got an old Vermeer F round balers, it has problems starting a bale sometimes, relates to having weak flaps on a flappy roller above the hay intake, and mostly having weak or poor or missing teeth on the pickup, as the pickup is crucial to a Vermeer starting a bale, the teeth push the hay back into the rollers to make it start rolling. But that is my brand, not your brand, different tricks for different brands.

Paul

[poorboy]

You have to ease into the windrow..If you have live power on your tractor you can stop just as the baler pickup touches the windrow, then, when it takes in a little dab pull up afoot or to, continue this until u see a decent core forming and rolling in the baler...After you have the core started try 1st gear for a while, when core gets 18" to 2' thick you might try 2nd on that m then..good luck

[poorboy]

And iffin you have an owners manual for your baler reading it will help immensely.

[FarmboyBill]

Would that sticky wrap work on an AC #60 combine roller that the canvas goes over,

[FarmboyBill]

I now know that your bailer is the same size as mine, 5X5. I also know the M is one way hyd. What did you do to make it 2 way?

[Yvonne's hubby]

Originally Posted by FarmboyBill

What size bale does the bailer make, or what size can it make?

Mine, which looks identical to his, makes a five by five. I also pull it with a small ferguson to35 tractor. If memory serves it has 28 hp at the pto.

[Yvonne's hubby]

Originally Posted by FarmboyBill

I now know that your bailer is the same size as mine, 5X5. I also know the M is one way hyd. What did you do to make it 2 way?

My tractor had single hyd. I just bought a 2 way control valve from TSC. Sure made a big difference in what I can do with the tractor.

[FarmboyBill]

What size bales do you make tho??

[Yvonne's hubby]

Originally Posted by FarmboyBill

What size bales do you make tho??

I usually tie off at about 4x5 instead of letting it fill to the full 5x5.... It makes it much easier for me to move them with my small tractor. With the full size on my front loader I have trouble keeping the back wheels on the ground, not much traction.

[FarmboyBill]

That's great news to hear. That's what I want to make also.

QESTION. Did you have to have an extra tank for hyd oil to run the bailer?
This question for you hubby and 3 akers lol