Ford 501 Sickle Bar Breaking

[JLMissouri]

I was wondering if anybody has a good idea why a Ford 501 sickle bar keeps breaking. It has a 7' bar and is the larger 501 with the longer pitman. When I first bought it I used it for about 20 acres until it broke the bar that the sickle sections bolt to, I repaired it to have it break in a diffirent area. After repairing it several times I just replaced the entire bar last year. It again broke so I doubled the bar with the old one sandwiching the sections between two bars, and now it broke the pitman strap.

Its getting a little old. It can only go about 20+/- acres before breaking. It cuts very well, all new sections and all the rock gaurds are adjusted and in okay shape. It doesn't leave patches and only clogs when I hit a crawfish mud mound or something similar. If I could get it to stop breaking the bar I would be very happy with it in every other way.

I am not mowing to fast, usually second gear on an 8N. I originally ran it at the correct 540 PTO speed but then tried running it slower to see if that was the problem. It broke no matter what speed I went. I can move the sickle bar by hand, and it doesn't seem to be binding. Maybe I need to lube it more often? Maybe run it at a higher RPM? I don't know. Anyone been through this?

[Alice In TX/MO]

How ironic. We just started using a used JD sickle bar today, and we broke the pittman arm twice.

Sigh.

It's in the adjustments. Here's a discussion I found by googling:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cg...&th=24369%253E

[Alice In TX/MO]

Here's another one for Fords:
http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cg...lment&th=26058

[jwal10]

Are the sections registered to the guards? The guards and sections sharp? What type of sections are you running?

....James

[FarmboyBill]

James has hit on about all it can be Whenyou take the sickle out, how hard is it to remove?
Do you have one of those special outside end sections, the ones with 2 or 3 protrusions that look like tinyer sickles.?
Are you using a swath board
Does the sickle hog down the tractor
Take your sickle to a professional sharpening service and let them sharpen it. I just called about mine today. #35.00-, and WELL worth the money. I had them do it last year, and I was amazed. Ive never broke a bar, but ive broke many pitmans, and bent the inside plate that the pitman attached to. Last year I replaced the plate, and with the sharpened sickle, and new pitman, I was AMAZED at how well it cut. I even cut a shrub tree with a trunk the size of both my thumbs on the outside end of the bar,

[Twobottom]

Are you setting the bar too high? I keep mine fully dropped so the bar rests and slides along the ground. Also, did you hit something before it broke at any time? Or did it just break? I'm thinking if it just broke there is some stress in the bar the way it is set.

[jwal10]

Yes, If you are pulling the head off or breaking the sickle bar something is causing too much strain on it. If it runs easy, empty then it is cutting too hard, dull or out of time likely. Another thing, is the outer end of the cutter bar ahead of the machine end? The outer end of the cutter bar should lead a little. If it lags behind it makes cutting harder.
I use over serrated sections, they are self sharpening. As they wear the serrations stay intact and sharp. Smooth and under serrated sections get dull and need sharpening. Never sharpen over serrated sections as it takes the serrations off, no better than smooth sections, then....James

[FarmboyBill]

Jmes. What do over serrations look like? Ive only see those, and have them that have the serrations on the edge beveling to an edge on the flat side of the section.

[Twobottom]

Originally Posted by FarmboyBill

Jmes. What do over serrations look like? Ive only see those, and have them that have the serrations on the edge beveling to an edge on the flat side of the section.

Not speaking for james but I've had both over and under. I think the last cutter bar I ordered has the serrations under, while the over serrations are on top of the cutter teeth.

Not sure why the heck I ordered under instead of over last year, I think I had some reason after researching but cant remember. I can tell you that the cutter cut really really well this year, might be just be the brandy new bar.

[coolrunnin]

over serrations:


Under serrations:

[1shotwade]

This is probably no help as everyone here seems to be on top of this subject but I can't help but think it's either out of time or something is building up or getting jammed in the end of the travel cycle of the blade. If you are breaking parts that often it has to be under much too much stress.Is the end open so nothing can limit the travel of the blade? Wish I could help more!

Wade

[Seth]

I'd check for worn guards allowing the sickle an up/down motion. Had the same problem on a 501 years ago, that was the root cause. Is anything warped? Seth

[JLMissouri]

Nothing is bent that I can tell. The sections are serrated and new, so I don't see that being the problem. Nothing blocks the movement at the end of the bar, the sections are registered with the guards.It has a swath board on the end of the bar. I can move the sickle bar by hand, although if I pull it out all the way it does seem to catch unless I loosen the hold downs. I cut with it dropped on the ground and it cuts good. Never has bogged down the tractor. I agree something seems to be causing strain, but I am not sure what. I am welding together again today and will oil it and see if it can hold together for the last 40 acres.

My old bar had the special end sections but I don't think the new one came that way, I would have to check. I bought a bar with all sections already attached. I will check but I am pretty sure the end is slightly ahead of the rest.

How often should the bar be oiled?

[FarmboyBill]

I AL>AYS poured used oil on the sickle with it running slow before I started cutting.

IS IT breaking at new places each time, or at the same place you welded up before?

[FarmboyBill]

yeah cr those are the sections ive got, and the only ones ive ever seen

[coolrunnin]

I pour used motor oil on it everytime i stopped for something

[HuskyBoris]

does it have a slip clutch? and if so is it functioning? correct pitman? another problem I had with my old IH mower was it wouldn't stay straight,the adjustment to keep it straight kept bending,the bar would slide a foot or two back and break the pitman.

[jwal10]

Are the guards the throw away type or the kind you can put new ledger plates in? Are the guards shot? Are all the shims under the head of the sickle to keep it aligned? Sounds like the hold downs are adjusted pretty good if it hangs up a little when removing the sickle....James

[JLMissouri]

It has broke both ways, new and old. Although this last time it broke elsewhere as It now has a double bar down half the length. I just reinforced the area and then noticed why it has probably broke the last time. The pulley had a bolt break and it tweaked itself some. I fixed that and reinforced the spot where it broke to be stronger than new, so I am going to give it another shot.

I also think I may be operating at to many RPMS. There is a gauge on the pulley shield giving you the RPM per pulley size that was pretty faded and I didn't really notice before. I was operating a little over the limit, so I am going to slow down. It seemed like a good speed, but maybe the extra rpms was too much. I am used to a disc mower, but that doesn't really work for my personal operation. I am hoping I can get this to work reliably.

The guards are all in okay shape. I don't use the overrunning clutch anymore as I have to find a steep hill or ditch to put the mower in order to drop it and unhook the PTO when I am ready to fold up and head out. The wear plates are all there under the hold downs and as far as I can tell everything is adjusted good.

I cut about 4 acres this evening and it was working good. Hopefully running it slower will work.

Do you guys think pouring oil over the bar does much? It seems like all the oil is worn off within the first pass.

[FarmboyBill]

Ive done it for 45yrs. Use old engine oil. It helps lubricate the sickle in the bar, as they both are likely somewhat rusty after setting out for so long.