Shallow Well - Check Valve

[tasher]

We drove a shallow well down about 15' deep, and the water (static level) is only down about a foot (below ground level). I can see the water in the pipe. I didn't put a foot valve, or check valve, at the bottom of the galvanized pipe - I instead put it at the top just below the pitcher pump. I did this with the logic of opening an air valve below the check valve for winterizing it. This is a seasonal shallow well for showering and cleaning only.

The pitcher pump sits about 3' above ground, on top of the check valve. When attached it wouldn't pump water out. I believe this is due to the improper priming, as there still remains about 3' of air in the pipe between the pump and the static level.

My current pitcher pump is an 'Oasis' brand that has a check valve in it already, which is nice - but prevents be from priming the 3' of air space in the pipe.

Do the old fashion pitcher pump have a check valve in them? If not, I could try that but don't understand what would keep the water in the pipe instead of just going down to static level.

Can anyone help me with this? I obviously still have much to learn. Thanks.

[Harry Chickpea]

The pump part of many of the old fashioned pitcher pumps was down in the well below the water level, connected with a push rod. With it down there, and the addition of a small weep hole, the casing is self draining.

[wy_white_wolf]

...

A common problem with small diameter driven or screened wells, is a plugged well
point or screen. For example, let us say we have a 2 in. driven well 30 ft. in depth with what appears to be a static water level of 10 ft. This would indicate we have plenty of water. But if we have a plugged point/screen, this condition may prevent the water reaching true static level which we will say in this example, is 18 ft. A good way to check this is to pour water in the well pipe to the surface. If it stands full or goes down very slowly, the well point is plugged (stopped up or sealed off) If the water goes down
rapidly or you cannot fill the pipe, the well point is open and should produce
water. To correct this condition, (plugged well point/screen) pull the pipe
and replace point/screen or acid treat the well. If you are unfamiliar with this
procedure, contact us for details.

...

http://www.oasispumps.com/troubleshooting.html

WWW

[Rustaholic]

Originally Posted by tasher

We drove a shallow well down about 15' deep, and the water (static level) is only down about a foot (below ground level). I can see the water in the pipe. I didn't put a foot valve, or check valve, at the bottom of the galvanized pipe - I instead put it at the top just below the pitcher pump. I did this with the logic of opening an air valve below the check valve for winterizing it. This is a seasonal shallow well for showering and cleaning only.
The pitcher pump sits about 3' above ground, on top of the check valve. When attached it wouldn't pump water out. I believe this is due to the improper priming, as there still remains about 3' of air in the pipe between the pump and the static level.
My current pitcher pump is an 'Oasis' brand that has a check valve in it already, which is nice - but prevents be from priming the 3' of air space in the pipe.
Do the old fashion pitcher pump have a check valve in them? If not, I could try that but don't understand what would keep the water in the pipe instead of just going down to static level.
Can anyone help me with this? I obviously still have much to learn. Thanks.

Also the check valve below the pump keeps it from being properly primed. The very best advice I can give is to pull that 15' of pipe and put a foot valve down there on top of your screen where it belongs. I believe what you have is a shallow well suction pump. Priming it and pumping would do the job if it wasn't for your improperly positioned check valve.
Yes while you have your pipe pulled it will be a great time to drill that weep hole to make a frost proof well. Of course if you lived here and your water was just a foot below grade it would freeze.

[Allen W]

You have the check valve in the right way? We bought a camper this summer that had two check valves in line back to back. one working one way the other working the other way.

[tasher]

Hey everyone - I just wanted to take the time to post a follow up as I myself appreciate resolved issues and someone might benefit from this.

The check valve was installed in the correct flow direction, at the top of the pipe, and the well wasn't plugged. I could take the check valve off (by unscrewing it) and inserting a hose for a liquid transfer pump running off 12v's and it would pump all day.

So I put the check valve back on, and primed it by dumping water on top of the check valve (the actual valve was recessed in the 'check valve 1/2") and then I 'burped' the valve quickly with my finger allowing water in the pipe and minimizing air. I could tell the pipe was filling up. Again, the static water level was only 3' down. Then once I thought it was close I screwed the pitcher pipe on, and primed that with water. Gave it a few pumps and everything works great. Success story.

I've even take it off and performed this procedure a few times to build a better pipe manifold for hooking up a powered pump and stuff. Still works great. Good luck to anyone else dealing with this. Installing a well and getting water out of the earth by hand is a great accomplishment and feels great. Happy Homesteading everyone.

[fishhead]

I would definitely get that water checked before drinking it or using it to wash dishes. It's basically surface water unless you went through an impervious layer.

[haypoint]

I had a check valve below a pitcher pump and it made it hard to pump. The pitcher pump had to "pull" hard enough to open the check valve spring.
In most cases, people just do without the check valve and prime the pump every time you need water. Pour water into the top of the pump and start pumping. Keep pumping and keep pouring and eventually you'll get water.

[Fire-Man]

I have several shallow wells(app 50ft deep), All have check valves just below the pump only and screen on the bottom of the well pipe. All work Good with a hand pump and a electric pump. I have one of the wells with a hand pump and a electric pump. I can draw water with either without cutting any valves off-----because I am using check valves. Works good!