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  #1  
Old 05/26/14, 10:09 PM
 
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Growing food crops on recent pig pasture

How safe is planting food crops on pasture recently used by pigs. Personally, I'd avoid root crops but would corn, melons, beans, etc. pick up diseases from the ground? Not sure where I can find such info....hoping someone here can help.
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  #2  
Old 05/26/14, 10:10 PM
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How recently?
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  #3  
Old 05/26/14, 10:12 PM
 
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I think 3 months is a common time frame, are you more or less than that?

Paul
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  #4  
Old 05/26/14, 10:29 PM
 
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I fed my pigs tomatoes. 2mo after I moved them, my tomato forest started to grow. Plants didn't kill us or the chickens who ate the new tomatoes.
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  #5  
Old 05/27/14, 07:01 AM
 
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The last two pigs on the field were butchered 10 days ago. What type of diseases/parasites might be passed through the plants and to the eventual food? Don't farmers spread fresh manure on their fields for animal feed? In turn we eat the resulting meat and eggs from those fields. Perhaps only a sunflower field? I'm probably thinking too much about this. Thanks for your input.
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  #6  
Old 05/27/14, 07:13 AM
 
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This bulletin probably explains the risks as well as possible. There are some important items: e. Coli and Salmonella can be present in any manure; pig manure, cat, or dog manure has a higher likelihood of having parasites that can infect humans, mainly roundworms and tapeworms--and the eggs and cysts can persist for long times; the NOP(National Organic Program) recommendations for using raw manure of any kind in a garden are 120 days before planting for any crop under the ground, and 90 days before planting any crop with the food above the grouind; composting any manure thoroughly at a temperature of 140 degrees and heated at least three times; knowing the health status of the animals making the manure.

There's always some health risk from using any manure--and it is higher with pig manure than other types. You minimize the risks by following the guidelines given. http://umaine.edu/publications/2510e/

geo
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Old 05/27/14, 07:16 AM
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The first year I plant for the pigs or high crops.
The second year I plant for the pigs, high crops or low crops.
The third year anything.
This is in our winter paddocks which get well fertilized over the cold months.
I'm being very, very conservative. Never seen a problem.
If you are able to compost the manure it is better for the plants and heat kills pathogens but that isn't pasture.
Out on our grazing pastures we use managed rotational grazing - 21 days is the parasite break period. Longer is better but mostly that is for forage growth.
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Old 05/27/14, 07:17 AM
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There's always some health risk from using any manure--and it is higher with pig manure than other types. You minimize the risks by following the guidelines given. http://umaine.edu/publications/2510e/
That guide is fraught with errors. I call bogus on it.
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  #9  
Old 05/27/14, 07:46 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nappy View Post
The last two pigs on the field were butchered 10 days ago. What type of diseases/parasites might be passed through the plants and to the eventual food? Don't farmers spread fresh manure on their fields for animal feed? In turn we eat the resulting meat and eggs from those fields. Perhaps only a sunflower field? I'm probably thinking too much about this. Thanks for your input.
Bacteria and a few tape worm type things are possible.

The odds are actually quite low, but some of those bacteria are very serious these days, so we try to err on the way overboard cautious side of things.

You can plant 100 years in fresh hog manure and never have a problem. Then one time.....

Farmers use fresh manure to grow grain crops used for feeding livestock. These grain crops grow 5-6 months before harvest, so pretty much all the bad stuff will break down before harvest. As well it is used to feed livestock, so the risk to humans is zero. Anything made from wheat, corn, soybeans is typically processed anyhow, which would kill the issues, as few as rare as the issues would be, the processing into bread or sugar or cornbread or protein will kill off pathogens.

In a garden setting, some crops are ready to eat in a few weeks, maybe even less like strawberrys or asparagus. And the crops grow low to the ground. And can be consumed raw.

So it is a very different setting.

Paul
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  #10  
Old 05/27/14, 08:05 AM
 
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Seems best to err on the side of caution. Thought so but felt need to ask. You all are great info. sources. Thank you.
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  #11  
Old 05/27/14, 08:10 AM
 
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That guide is fraught with errors. I call bogus on it.
Hmmm, please elaborate........

geo
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  #12  
Old 05/27/14, 04:33 PM
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For one thing they say to never compost pig manure. Bogus. I get the sense this was written by someone who read some things and doesn't really understand what they're talking about.
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  #13  
Old 05/27/14, 05:07 PM
 
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If nothing else plant a cover crop to utilize the nutrients from the pig manure and work it back into the ground.
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  #14  
Old 05/27/14, 05:26 PM
 
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I would avoid leafy vegetables because they are in direct contact with the soil surface. Rain could splash the manure and parasite eggs on the leaves and the leaves are what you eat.
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  #15  
Old 05/28/14, 07:03 AM
 
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Originally Posted by highlands View Post
For one thing they say to never compost pig manure. Bogus. I get the sense this was written by someone who read some things and doesn't really understand what they're talking about.
Actually, large producers are composting pig manure. Not by your ordinary gardening methods, but by intensive processes and done to pretty high standards. http://www.livestocktrail.illinois.e...ContentID=6519

http://www.banffpork.ca/proc/2005pdf/BO11-PaulJ.pdf

"And don't you dare touch that turkey, it's not done yet; you'll get worms!!" (The Christmas Story) is what I first felt when reading that bulletin, too. On the first draft, I called it slightly over the top and perhaps alarmist--then changed it to read as you see it. Maybe that was in error. But I wouldn't go so far as to say "bogus". Other ag extension bulletins will say the same thing. They are basically giving advice to home gardeners, who often are beginning composters with not a whole lot of knowlege about the composting process. The key element in killing most pathogens is heat, the length of the heat time, and the completeness of heating the whole mass of materials in the original heap.....and, frankly--just how many gardeners know or even adhere to those details??? Not me, for sure. I throw the stuff in, my only turning is to add fish entrails deep enough to keep them from attracting flies or stinking, and then open the pile next year to see what I've got.....Heat? What heat?

By rights the NOP rules for USDA ORGANIC may be the best, and most conservative way to compost any animal manure (note that NOP doesn't mention the kind of manure used in compost) :

§205.203 Soil fertility and crop nutrient management practice standard.

(a) The producer must select and implement tillage and cultivation practices that maintain or improve the physical, chemical, and biological condition of soil and minimize soil erosion.
(b) The producer must manage crop nutrients and soil fertility through rotations, cover crops, and the application of plant and animal materials.
(c) The producer must manage plant and animal materials to maintain or improve soil organic matter content in a manner that does not contribute to contamination of crops, soil, or water by plant nutrients, pathogenic organisms, heavy metals, or residues of prohibited substances. Animal and plant materials include:
(1) Raw animal manure, which must be composted unless it is:
(i) Applied to land used for a crop not intended for human consumption;
(ii) Incorporated into the soil not less than 120 days prior to the harvest of a product whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles; or
(iii) Incorporated into the soil not less than 90 days prior to the harvest of a product whose edible portion does not have direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles;
(2) Composted plant and animal materials produced though a process that:
(i) Established an initial C:N ratio of between 25:1 and 40:1; and
(ii) Maintained a temperature of between 131 °F and 170 °F for 3 days using an in-vessel or static aerated pile system; or
(iii) Maintained a temperature of between 131 °F and 170 °F for 15 days using a windrow composting system, during which period, the materials must be turned a minimum of five times.
(3) Uncomposted plant materials.
(d) A producer may manage crop nutrients and soil fertility to maintain or improve soil organic matter content in a manner that does not contribute to contamination of crops, soil, or water by plant nutrients, pathogenic organisms, heavy metals, or residues of prohibited substances by applying:
(1) A crop nutrient or soil amendment included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed for use in organic crop production;
(2) A mined substance of low solubility;
(3) A mined substance of high solubility: Provided, That, the substance is used in compliance with the conditions established on the National List of nonsynthetic materials prohibited for crop production;
(4) Ash obtained from the burning of a plant or animal material, except as prohibited in paragraph (e) of this section: Provided, That, the material burned has not been treated or combined with a prohibited substance or the ash is not included on the National List of nonsynthetic substances prohibited for use in organic crop production; and
(5) A plant or animal material that has been chemically altered by a manufacturing process: Provided, That, the material is included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed for use in organic crop production established in §205.601.
(e) The producer must not use:
(1) Any fertilizer or composted plant and animal material that contains a synthetic substance not included on the National List of synthetic substances allowed for use in organic crop production;
(2) Sewage sludge (biosolids) as defined in 40 CFR part 503; and (3) Burning as a means of disposal for crop residues produced on the operation: Except, That, burning may be used to suppress the spread of disease or to stimulate seed germination.

The additional problem with pig manure is that it can, or could contain parasites which can or could transfer to humans which are more resistant to the heat of composting--or, more probably so, survive in a poorly tended compost pile of a home gardener.....thus, the "You'll get worms!" kind of statements. I think the OP got it right---err on the side of caution.


geo
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  #16  
Old 05/28/14, 07:06 AM
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If one is worried about parasites, do a fecal test and see if they're actually there. While you're at it, get a soil test. Knowledge is power.
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  #17  
Old 05/28/14, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by geo in mi View Post
Actually, large producers are composting pig manure.
Aye, that is my point. Pig manure composts just fine. So does cat and dog manure as well as human manure. All manures compost. That is the point of composting, to get it up to temperature to kill off the pathogens and break down the materials to become soil amendment. Anyone can do it at home as well as on farm and industrial scales. Composting is easy and reliable.
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  #18  
Old 05/30/14, 03:25 PM
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My 98 y.o. grandmother used there old hog lot, which was a cattle lot before that, for her garden. It grew the biggest carrots. Her garden was awesome. I would till and use that area in a heartbeat. Already composted for you.
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