Tractor FEL Lift Capacity Question

Awnry Abe · #1 04/15/14, 01:51 PM

I am about to order a semi-load of chaffhaye, which is delivered on 2000lb pallets.

I have a Kubota L5740HST /ROP, w/ LA854 FEL. The pallet fork is QC compatible that I purchased from North American Implement (?). I don't have wheel weights or filled tires.

I do not know quite how to decipher the LA854 lift capacity spec. I don't want the semi load to show up and get caught with the inability to unload without breaking a sweat. The best rear ballast I have is with an approx 1500lb bale of hay.

Here is what the Kubota spec for the LA854 states:

Max. Lift Height (pivot pin): 112.3 in.
Lift Capacity (500mm forward): 1878 lbs.
Lift Capacity (pivot pin): 2489 lbs.
Breakout Force (500mm forward):3267 lbs.

I basically don't know what "pivot pin" or "500mm forward" mean.

Am I even close to good, or is it a total non-starter?

Fire-Man · #2 04/15/14, 02:47 PM

I use my 18 blade disc or rotary hoe on the back for counter weight. If the chaffehaye is wrapped, tilt the top of the load at a safe angle toward the tractor which will put the weight closer "in" instead of farther out towards the end of the pallet fork. It will be easier on the loader to lift. If nothing else-----just throw several bails on another pallet to lighten the load on the other one.

wy_white_wolf · #3 04/15/14, 03:00 PM

pivot pin - Pivot point that the bucket, pallet fork or any other attachment truns on.

500mm forward - 500mm or roughly 20" forward of the pivot pin. This would just about equal the center of the pallet. the load will be a little over the rated lift capacity at this point. You can either attemp to unload the pallet or unload about 200lbs onto another pallet to stay under the rating.

WWW

simi-steading · #4 04/15/14, 03:12 PM

I'm not telling you this, but those load numbers are lawyer load capacities... They will handle more than that, but you're past the point lawyers feel you're safe to go over.. .

You go with the lowest number quoted as your limits.. unless you're like most people and see what it can really do...

I didn't tell you any of that though.. not responsible for injuries or broken parts..

Old Vet · #5 04/15/14, 03:52 PM

I would try it but very careful? If the back wheels come up then unload enough to lift it. Be careful backing up. In other words lift it a little and then try it. When the wheels lift up put it back down no matter where it is.

TnAndy · #6 04/15/14, 04:11 PM

You're REAL close to good. My guess is it WILL do it. Definitely put that round bale on the back end for ballast.

Make sure the side you're unloading is either flat, or sloping downward, back away from the side you're unloading. Do NOT unload with the tractor going downhill toward the truck. The "curl" of the loader will usually "roll more" back than the loader will pick up easily.....because you're shifting that center of gravity of the load from farther out to back in closer to that higher rated pivot point.

If the FEL won't pick up the pallet straight up, curl it backwards about 20 degrees toward you, enough to get it off the truck bed, back straight back, enough to clear the pallet, then IMMEDIATELY lower the pallet (still curled) to near the ground. You can move it safely as long as it is only inches off the ground....and the loader will handle more at a lower point than a high one. I do this with large logs all the time.

There are some other tricks, such as "bumping" the load up ( holding the stick back and goosing the forward pedal at the same time), driving on the front two wheels only ( if you have 4wd ), and so on, but they tend to be somewhat unsafe, and also tend to bust loaders, frames, etc.....yeah...ask me HOW I know.....ahahahaaaa.....replacing the top hydraulic cylinder on my loader right now as I pulled the whole rod out the end of it the other day....KaPOW, with a shower of hydraulic oil....ahahaaaaa

DaleK · #7 04/15/14, 04:36 PM

You'll be fine with 2000 lbs with ballast on the back. Just keep it low and slow

Gray Wolf · #8 04/15/14, 06:53 PM

Good advice above. Air up your front tires or you might roll the tire off the rim when you turn. Don't turn too sharp even with the load only inches above the ground. Ask me how I know ......

Yvonne's hubby · #9 04/16/14, 02:19 AM

It sounds to me like her pushing the limits and could easily find yourself in a "hold my beer and watch this!" moment.

Darren · #10 04/16/14, 05:37 AM

It will work. If necessary you can cheat it and get it up as others have described. Hydraulics are amazing. How old are the hoses on the loader?

I picked up 1,400 lbs, weighed later on a scale, with an L3710 compact Kubota that wasn't supposed to be able to do that. I have 1600 lbs of ballast in the tires which made the difference. As others have said make sure you unload somewhere solid and level. And. as mentioned, don't get in a hurry or travel with the load high.

Are your forks a unit by themselves or are they fastened to the bucket?

Conhntr · #11 04/16/14, 05:37 AM

Most old farms have a bank that trucks can back up to so that the tail of the truck is about even with the ground. If the tractor is roughly same level as the load would be easy to pull out. I unload pallets using a chain and just drag them out of the truck onto the bank

idigbeets · #12 04/16/14, 05:44 AM

Yea you should be fine. My tractors are rated 2k or so, and I routinely put 2500 on them no problem. I do have ballasted rear tires (why don't you??).

Awnry Abe · #13 04/16/14, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idigbeets

Yea you should be fine. My tractors are rated 2k or so, and I routinely put 2500 on them no problem. I do have ballasted rear tires (why don't you??).

It's on my short list.

I've been told its like getting a whole different tractor.

Awnry Abe · #14 04/16/14, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yvonne's hubby

It sounds to me like her pushing the limits and could easily find yourself in a "hold my beer and watch this!" moment.

Not necessary with this model. It comes with a cup holder. All I need is an audience.

I've been top heavy and tippy a gazillion times, and am actually not too worried about that because of the circumstances. My biggest "whoa!" came when I was carrying a round bale on front and back, and my back bale decided to stay behind when I crossed a ditch. What I am mostly concerned with is the thing not even being able to lift and finding myself in the "now what?" moment. I figure at worst case, I can unwrap the top layer and toss off a couple of hundred pounds. I know I have to be close, because my bales are up there in that neck of the woods.

Ramblin Wreck · #15 04/16/14, 07:21 AM

You are close to your limit, which on a Kubota is roughly 2.2 times the number on your loader. If space permits, I use a heavy mower on the back for ballast. Seems to put the weight further behind me which assists in keeping the front end from sinking. Do air up your tires and use the four wheel drive if you have it. Good luck.

bja105 · #16 04/16/14, 08:28 AM

You might want to put something on the three point as a counter balance. A heavy implement or a round bale on the three point spear work. I made a counter weight with concrete in a barrel.

Just keep the loader low when moving heavy loads.

You probably knew all that, so carry on. I would go for it. Have something handy to shovel the load into if it is too heavy, so you don't waste the driver's time.

idahodave · #17 04/16/14, 10:02 AM

The rated lift could have been calculated from the maximum hydraulic pressure and the diameter of the lifting rams. There's no way to cheat this.

GunMonkeyIntl · #18 04/16/14, 10:05 AM

+10 on the ballast.
Any time you are operating anywhere near the limit of your loader capacity, you should have ample counterweight on the rear of the tractor. Even if you are not moving the load and are not worried about tipping the machine, counterweight reduces the stress on the front axle. Adding weight to the rear of the machine moves the center of gravity rearward and lets the rear axle and frame share some of the load, rather than letting it all ride on the front axle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by simi-steading

I'm not telling you this, but those load numbers are lawyer load capacities...

Kinda, but not really.
Load capacities, on a properly engineered loader (which this Kubota should be), are WELL below the structural capacity of the loader and its cylinders, but often right at or only slightly below the relief valve setting. Do not be surprised if you have your bucket loaded to capacity (the 500mm forward figure), add one more pound, and the loader stops lifting. The relief valve may already be set a good bit above the published spec, but do not be surprised if it is not. You could adjust your relief valve to get more capacity before it goes into bypass, but then you are playing with your warranty and liability issues.

simi-steading · #19 04/16/14, 10:11 AM

Ah.. great point about the hydraulics.. Can't tell you how many times I've bumped up against that and had to find a bigger tool or another way to get the job done..

Darren · #20 04/16/14, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by idahodave

The rated lift could have been calculated from the maximum hydraulic pressure and the diameter of the lifting rams. There's no way to cheat this.

What I mean by cheating is when the loader will not pick the load. I can usually tilt the forks slightly down and slightly raise the boom to take advantage of the slight lift. Then return the forks to position and repeat. By synchronizing lifting the boom with tilting the forks slightly I can get the load off the truck or onto the truck.