frozen/cracked pvc pipe repaired -now water pressure minimal

Secondwind · #1 01/21/14, 08:39 PM

I had a frozen line that cracked and spewing gallons of water. It was a small 1/2" line off the main line that ran to a toilet. I cut out the damaged section and inserted a new one. When I turned the water back on every thing seems to be fine there is no leak in that pipe and I've not found evidence of one elsewhere yet my water pressure is about 1/2 what it was before the problem.

Any plumbers here that can tell me what the problem might be? The pressure is the same in all the faucets in the house so it seems it must be connected to the flow from the pressure tank?

I am a widow living alone and this is my first plumbing adventure. I was thrilled that I was able to take care of it on my own but my lack of experience/knowledge is showing now!

TIA

farmrbrown · #2 01/21/14, 08:58 PM

I don't know how much help I can offer, but I'm battling a similar situation at a neighbor's house now.
Last week's freeze was also accompanied with an 8 hour power outage, so several neighbors who left their water trickling ended up with frozen pipes by the end of the day anyway.

After replacing everything above ground that had a leak, I still couldn't get full pressure in the house, not enough to fill the toilets in the normal way.
I checked the pressure tank quickly by letting a small amount of air out, it had plenty of air, so I knew it hadn't burst or leaked out.
The only thing left as far as I can tell that could be allowing air to leak in, and cause low pressure is a busted pipe going into the well (inlet pipe) or a busted pipe somewhere buried between the well and the house, which I hope is not the problem.
Since I don't know your system, I can only say those are the two places I'd check next.

haypoint · #3 01/21/14, 09:13 PM

Could there be ice in the line restricting flow. Is the flow about half or is the pressure on the gauge at the pressure tank half?

davel745 · #4 01/21/14, 09:15 PM

the only thing I can think of is 1 there may be a partially frozen pipe some were. or maybe the pressure tank is having a problem. is the pump near by, or is a deep well pump down the bore? is the pump cycling on and off, on and off, on and off, if so the pressure tank is water logged or is low on air pressure. someplace on the pressure tank is a air valve, just like on a car tire. the tank pressure needs to be 2 pounds below the water pressure. Which is controlled by the water pressure switch located near the pressure tank were the water line goes into the tank. the pressure should be written on the cover of the pressure switch and should have an electrical connection. normally the switch is 40 pounds. so the pressure tank should have 38 pounds of air pressure in it. Usually the pressure switch (which turns on and off the well pump) has a gray cover. I hope this helps.

CountryCabin · #5 01/21/14, 09:28 PM

Secondwind.

Are you on city water or well?
I don't know your water setup but here's an idea IF you are on a well.

Have you checked your pressure tank to see what the PSI (pounds sq.inch) are at?

It should have a gauge (attached to the pipe coming out of the tank) telling you what it is. It should read the poundage of air that is actually in the tanks itself.

If you don't know what the PSI should be, it should be on your tank. Look for a sticker on the tank itself.

If the gauge reads lower then what the tank says it should be, you will have to either get someone to put more air in it or do it yourself.... if you have a way to do it.

If it's not that or you are on city water, then I am stuck.
Sorry not much help just from experience with mine when it gets low pressure.

Good luck.

Wanda · #6 01/22/14, 06:58 AM

When lines freeze it tends to break loose all the scale that has formed in the plumbing from iron and other minerals. If there is an area with something to restrict the flow, it will build up like a mini beaver dam.

Ozarks Tom · #7 01/22/14, 11:27 AM

Is your pump turning off, and staying off? If so, you don't have another leak. Make sure all valves/faucets are closed, including the icemaker, and watch your gauge. If the gauge pressure goes down and the pump turns back on, you've got another busted pipe/leak. A lot of times the first pipe to burst will be an outside faucet, just inside the wall on the north side of the house.

Good luck!

simi-steading · #8 01/22/14, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wanda

When lines freeze it tends to break loose all the scale that has formed in the plumbing from iron and other minerals. If there is an area with something to restrict the flow, it will build up like a mini beaver dam.

I would bet if you pull the fill valve in the tank and pulled it apart, you'll find a lot of trash inside it from the old pipe that froze..

I have to constantly remove and clean the screens on my faucets and toilet because we turn the water off and on so often at the farm....

Yes, I know a filter would prevent that, but we're waiting because we're buying a whole house filter after we will be living there... Don't need one more thing holding water during the winter that may freeze...

I just went through this last weekend.. got to the farm, turned on the water... broke pipes everywhere.

I drain everything every time we leave, but problem is, you drain a faucet, you still have the plumbing below it that won't drain.

SO, as I was repairing it all, I put an extra valve on each line just under the supply line valve. That way I can drain everything..

Waterwheel Farm · #9 01/22/14, 12:03 PM

I'm not a plumber, but have messed with wells and pressure tanks for a long time. Not much info to go on here, but you did say you have a pressure tank so I'm assuming a cistern or well. First off think about what you did. You fixed just one section of pipe, so if there was a problem with that, it should only be affecting the appliance that one pipe went to, but it's not. It's affecting all of the faucets, etc. If you don't have a pressure gauge, you need to get one and install it in the water piping at the pressure tank. Very hard to troubleshoot without a working gauge. When you cut off the water did you just turn off the pump or actually operate an isolation valve? If a valve, make sure you got it all the way open. Sometimes they can stick and feel open, but they're not. Also, depending on the style of valve, the valve gate can come off inside and feel like it's open, but the gate inside can come off and really restrict the flow. This is more common than you think. If you do have a working gauge, what is the pressure? After turning off the electicity to the pump, I repeat, after turning off the electricity to the pump you can take the cover off the pressure switch and there should be a tag inside telling what kind of pressure setting. It might say 40/20, 60/40 or whatever. This means the pumps kicks on when the pressure gets down to the lower number, and it kicks off at the higher number. Did I mention to turn off the breaker before removing this pressure switch cover? But to me, the odds of the pressure switch suddenly going bad just at the same time you had to repair a leak are pretty low. I'd be looking at the valve you used to isolate stuff making the repairs. Hope this helps.

just_sawing · #10 01/22/14, 12:28 PM

1 understand that there are two things here going on. one is flow and two is volume.
2 When you loose a line there is always a possibility of getting curd broke loose which will go to the next restriction and reduce the flow.
On a toilet it is easy to just put another valve in the tank and that is a low experience deal.
It isn't ice due to having flow will melt any ice quickly.
This could be as simple as a glob of glue was dropped in the pipe coming out of the floor and now it is at the valve saying I can reduce flow, the other simple matter is did you open the valve all the way. Some times it is that simple. I was called on a $750.00 call in a factory that was when I got there was a button not pushed.
PM me if you have a specific question and I will try to help

farminghandyman · #11 01/22/14, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Secondwind

I had a frozen line that cracked and spewing gallons of water. It was a small 1/2" line off the main line that ran to a toilet. I cut out the damaged section and inserted a new one. When I turned the water back on every thing seems to be fine there is no leak in that pipe and I've not found evidence of one elsewhere yet my water pressure is about 1/2 what it was before the problem.

TIA

water pressure at the toilet, or down water of the repair, or water pressure everywhere?

If it is down water, I would check for saw chips or stuff that could be clogging the valves or passages ways,

other wise (guess this on a well) the pressure switch, and if the pressure tank is aired properly,