Keep my trees ?

Randy Dandy · #1 07/18/13, 05:21 AM

We planted 5 Willow Oaks around 3 to 4 feet tall this past fall. None of them survived. However at the base of each tree, sprouted shoots came out from the roots of the Willow Oaks. Should I trim back the multiple sprouts back to a single one and keep them or start over this fall with new transplants ?
Im asking because I thought I remember hearing and/or reading that its not a good idea

Keep my trees ? - Homesteading Questions

to keep the "sprout ups" because the base of the tree will always be decaying from now on.
??????????/
Thanks

primal1 · #2 07/18/13, 05:56 AM

I would keep them as the root system is established and vigorous. It is a fairly common practice in forestry to cut damaged trees to the ground and let them resprout. I guess some trees may recover better than others doing this but i don't remember any mention that they will continue to decay at the base... though it would be a good idea to keep an eye on the base and make sure it doesn't develop 'pockets' where moisture can stay and contribute to decay, otherwise, trees can heal themselves.

Ironbutt · #3 07/18/13, 06:54 AM

I would wait and select the strongest sprout to grow into your tree.

Ozarks Tom · #4 07/18/13, 01:01 PM

About 5 years ago a late frost killed several budding maples here. Within a month sprouts were coming out of the roots. I let them get about 1-2 feet tall, and selected one after cutting down the original tree. They're still here, and doing well. Having an established root system is a big plus.

o&itw · #5 07/18/13, 03:11 PM

Let most of them grow to get the root system developed. Late next winter or early in the spring remove all the suckers except the two or three best ones. Select the best remaining sucker and cut the remaining ones off when they get fully leafed out and you know they are healthy. It is best to put a circle of short fencing around the shoot the first year as they can be broken off the side of the old trunk easily. If the original tree was no larger than and inch or two at the base, there is no worry about that stump rotting. It will and you won't be able to do anything about it. The new trunk will push it to the side in a few years and it will be inconsequential.

Randy Dandy · #6 07/18/13, 06:23 PM

Thank you all very much for the help. I will certainly give them a chance.
Whats my chances of cutting off a couple of sprout / suckers this winter and transplanting ?
This is a picture of one of them that has the most sprouts...

primal1 · #7 07/18/13, 06:37 PM

Oaks are notoriously difficult to root from cuttings but i say try. I am currently trying to root suckers from a beautiful pin oak that was ripped out of the ground by a tractor. I have potted the rootball and have about 10 sucker to try rooting.. so far 3 out of 3 failed

fishhead · #8 07/18/13, 07:19 PM

It's common to see oak sprouts in clearcuts around here. The forestry dept lets them go and they seem to produce decent trees.

JoePa · #9 07/18/13, 08:10 PM

I have a lot of pin oaks on my property - from the acorns I have little oaks growning all over the place - instead of trying to root them - just stick the acorns in pots and you'll have all the pin oats you want -

primal1 · #10 07/18/13, 08:26 PM

This tree hadn't started producing acorns yet but a client decided he planted it too close to his house so threw a chain around it and yanked it up.. I was horrified and insisted on taking the rootball home lol.
I am guessing tree is about 8 years so maybe i will plant it and hope for acorns in a couple of years, so ya good suggestion.. still good practice trying to get a cutting to root though

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoePa

I have a lot of pin oaks on my property - from the acorns I have little oaks growning all over the place - instead of trying to root them - just stick the acorns in pots and you'll have all the pin oats you want -

o&itw · #11 07/19/13, 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Dandy

Thank you all very much for the help. I will certainly give them a chance.
Whats my chances of cutting off a couple of sprout / suckers this winter and transplanting ?
This is a picture of one of them that has the most sprouts...

It is good that they only have a few sprouts instead of a dozen. Since the sprouts are that large, cut off the trunk at about 30 inches and tie a string (loosely) around the whole thing drawing the sprouts closer to the trunk and straighter. Do this carefully because 1st year sprouts can break off easily. If you accidentally break one or two, it is now problem because you have extra.

The only reason you shouldn't cut it back to one sprout now, is they are notorious for "snapping off the side of the trunk when they first start growing, and you don't want to pull just one straight and have it break off after you have pruned off the others. Actually, it would be best to carefully cut the trunk of the dead tree off and inch above the highest sprout, and carefully push in a re-bar or some other stake to get them to grow straight. The longer you leave the dead portion on the harder it will be to cut without damaging the sprout.

One thing you should know. Sprouts that grow like this often grow so fast that the are susceptible to winter freeze or spring frost nip to a greater extent than a normal branch. This is only for the first year, so if they are good next year you are home free.

If they are actually coming out of the trunk below the ground line, I would cut the dead trunk and two of the suckers off know. Put a T post or a stake on the opposite side of the trunk from the remaining sucker and tie it straight (about half way up). You want a single sucker to be selected as soon as possible. If the sprouts are truly coming up from below the ground line, as the picture indicates, it is safe to do that now if you are careful.

Randy Dandy · #12 07/19/13, 06:14 PM

Thanks again.
I have both sucker shoots from the side of the tree and some just below the surface.
Which would you rather keep ?

primal1 · #13 07/19/13, 07:15 PM

I have not verified which is better but I think if it's below ground it will develop it's own root which can't be bad.. hope somebody else has some experience to share

soulsurvivor · #14 07/19/13, 07:33 PM

Not the same tree but we lost all our Bradford Pear trees a few years ago to the ice storm. These trees aren't known for their hardiness in stout growth anyways but these off shoots have become better, stronger than the original trees. So what's the rush to make a decision of which shoots to keep? Another year of growth will give you a better selection for making a good choice of what to keep.

primal1 · #15 07/19/13, 07:49 PM

Interesting! Are the new shoots coming from the root stock and are the Bradford pears double grafted?
Sometimes i wish it was required to give the information of what types of trees are used when grafting.. it would just be nice to know so you can decide if something grown out from rootstock would be good or not.

Quote:

Originally Posted by soulsurvivor

Not the same tree but we lost all our Bradford Pear trees a few years ago to the ice storm. These trees aren't known for their hardiness in stout growth anyways but these off shoots have become better, stronger than the original trees. So what's the rush to make a decision of which shoots to keep? Another year of growth will give you a better selection for making a good choice of what to keep.

Randy Dandy · #16 07/20/13, 09:47 AM

I believe I will keep the largest shoots that are below ground if possible. From what Ive read it sounds like my best chance.
Thanks again

JasoninMN · #17 07/20/13, 02:07 PM

Were your original trees grafted? if so the shoots won't be willow oak but instead whatever they were grafted on too. I don't know if they graft oaks or not.

o&itw · #18 07/20/13, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Randy Dandy

I believe I will keep the largest shoots that are below ground if possible. From what Ive read it sounds like my best chance.
Thanks again

You are making a good decision. They stand less chance of breaking off. There are several reasons for getting the extra sprouts off a soon as possible. They are often outweighed by the chance of loosing the selected one because they snap off the side of the original wood so easily. Ones coming out of the ground a better protected against this happening.

Randy Dandy · #19 07/20/13, 07:07 PM

The trees are not grafted.
Im on my way out right now to single the best ones.
Wish me luck for about 20 to 40 years (God willing). After that someone else can enjoy them.

soulsurvivor · #20 07/20/13, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by primal1

Interesting! Are the new shoots coming from the root stock and are the Bradford pears double grafted?
Sometimes i wish it was required to give the information of what types of trees are used when grafting.. it would just be nice to know so you can decide if something grown out from rootstock would be good or not.

We weren't too concerned about the trees growing back after they all split down the middle of the main trunk and fell on the ground with the weight of the ice. Each tree looked like a flattened pancake in a big circle on the ground. The stump left was about 6 inches above ground and off shoots came up when summer weather hit a few months later. All the shoots came up in the typical Bradford Pear shape circling around the main trunk. These are still Bradford Pear trees and still have the heavy quick growth, but I think we're going to have to rename them as Bradford Pear bushes because the trunks aren't growing as fast as the limbs.

And more info than you've asked for, but we had one of the trees removed recently for a new driveway and it had a horrible root system with it, so we'll most likely get rid of the others as we get to it. We aren't fond of trees here because of all the underground lateral lines. Our fruit trees are at the far back of the lot and only exist because of that placement away from underground lines.