Your Tractor Recommendations?

[morekick]

Brothers and sisters, for the most part I'm tractor-illiterate and need your kind recommendations.

I'm thinking a tractor of around 25-40 hp, would prefer diesel, needs to have active hydraulics (meaning [as I understand it], the ability to use hydraulics when the transmission is not clutched), 3-point hitch. One PTO is good.

So far I'm looking for something like a Ford 2000 or 3000. Any feedback on these - or similar - and any specific tractors to avoid would be warmly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[RonM]

Go to tractorhouse.com, take a look, 25-40 HP is a spread......

[simi-steading]

I've got a Ford 2000 and really like it.. The only issue is, the PTO will still drive when you engage the clutch until either you take the tractor out of gear, or take the PTO out of gear.

If you are pulling something like a bush hog, it will keep pushing you forward even if you step on the clutch. You have to take something out of gear to stop it..

You can get an overrunning clutch to put between the PTO and the implement to stop this.. .

To have hydraulics on the tractor, someone would have had to of added a spooler on top of the transmission right in front of the seat. There is a plate you remove and add the spooler. You can find one though if it hasn't been added..

[rod44]

I have a New Holland TC35 and just love it. Has a loader and I don't know how I ever got along without one. 35 horse power and 3 power ranges with 3 gears in each. Will do a 5 foot mower and rototiller with no problem. Has a two stage clutch so you can engage the PTO beore the drivetrain.

[Old Vet]

No matter which brand you buy you will have to have a dealer around to have parts and work on it for you. A broke tractor is nothing but an expensive paper weight until you can work on it your self or waiting for parts or get it fix.

[Darren]

What attachments will you use or what work do you want to do? It makes a big difference in selecting a tractor. What type of terrain do you have? Flat, rolling hills, steep hills, dry, wet? Do you need to use hydraulics to operate an implement? Will you need a loader?

[dkhern]

get one w/loader at 25hp i get 4wd 40hp is enough to do most w/o 4wd

[rambler]

Starting in about 1955 with the Ford x6x model tractors (like a 660, 860, 960) they had live pto.

With live pto, you push the clutch in 1/2 way, and can shift the tractor into or out of a moving gear. If you push the clutch all the way in, you can then shift the pto in or out of gear.

That live pto works well, and is good.

Then there is independent pto, where the pto lever works all by itself, you don't use the clutch with it at all. No connection between starting or stopping the pto and the tractor shifting....

The old way is transmission pto, where you push in the clutch and all things stop, both tractor movement and the pto. As well as making it hard to bale or blow snow, this also locks the pto and rear end together when using the pto, so as some mention, a big rotary mower will keep moving the tractor forward as it spins down to a stop.

I think you would be fine with either a live or independent style?

Now, into the 2000s, some tractors were offered with or without live pto, depended on the features package you got. A Ford 660 will have live pto, a Ford 640 will not, tho basically the same tractor.... Other makes of tractors are similar.

So, don't trust us, don't trust the seller, check out the transmission and pto and power steering package the actual machine has.

It sounds like you have a good basic start on tractor shopping, and should do well.

Paul

[TnAndy]

I started with a 22hp Yanmar (US version) in 1985, went to a 33hp New Holland in 1998, and back to Yanmar 40hp last fall. Yanmar has is all over the New Holland in my book.....everything on it is better built. All were 4wh drive. Unless I was on dead flat ground ( and maybe not even then ), I wouldn't have a 2wh drive tractor....it's about 1/3 less tractor, hp equal.

[Allen W]

There has been a lot of improvements in hydraulics and 3 point capacity sense the ford 2000 and 3000 were made.

[ksfarmer]

Originally Posted by rod44

I have a New Holland TC35 and just love it. Has a loader and I don't know how I ever got along without one. 35 horse power and 3 power ranges with 3 gears in each. Will do a 5 foot mower and rototiller with no problem. Has a two stage clutch so you can engage the PTO beore the drivetrain.

I have a Case-IH Farmal 40 which is very similar to Rod 44 's New Holland. The are great tractors.
I do want to say; "Please don't allow children to ride on the tractor, If he hits a bump or the child wriggles at the wrong time and slips , you are facing a tragedy you will never get over"

[rod44]

He doesn't ride just sits on it. Not enough room to do it safely.

Also, be sure to wear your seat belt when running mowers or rototillers. A guy in our area hit a bump while mowing and went off and under his 5ft mower. Needless to say that was the end.

[ksfarmer]

Rod , I wondered if that were the case. Great photo op. I didn't mean to sound critical of you, but thought maybe everyone should be reminded. You are correct, there isn't much room on these small tractors. And, the seatbelt is a nuisance, but it just might save a life. I had a similar experience on mine while brush hogging, didn't go off, but came close enough to scare the bejabbers out of me.

[Jolly]

A local dealer was running these (FEL, no backhoe) for $13,999.

http://www.lstractorusa.com/products...act-G3033.html

LS used to build part of the Boomer line, so they are no stranger to small tractors.

[davel745]

My only suggestion is get a front end loader and as much horsepower as you can afford.
My JD 75 HP Basic tractor cost 22000.00 plus the loader about 4000.00 Not to much more than a 40 HP tractor.

[foxtrapper]

Look at your local dealership support. Being able to get parts for your tractor, or to get it fixed when a repair is beyond your abilities is darn nice.

I'd also suggest buying the nicest and newest tractor you can afford. Cheap old tractors tend to be unreliable money pits, and very frustrating to try to actually work with.

[ATPFARM]

Originally Posted by Darren

What attachments will you use or what work do you want to do? It makes a big difference in selecting a tractor. What type of terrain do you have? Flat, rolling hills, steep hills, dry, wet? Do you need to use hydraulics to operate an implement? Will you need a loader?

Great questions...need answered to get a good recommendation...

[Wolf mom]

I love my old diesel Kubota with bucket.

[morekick]

Originally Posted by Darren

What attachments will you use or what work do you want to do? It makes a big difference in selecting a tractor. What type of terrain do you have? Flat, rolling hills, steep hills, dry, wet? Do you need to use hydraulics to operate an implement? Will you need a loader?

Probably only a 5ft mower to start with, but would need an auger implement before long when putting in fencing. I will use the tractor also for hauling trees that I cut down when clearing (mostly mimosa and some cherry and pine).

Terrain is typical for North Florida: flat with only a slight crown. The sand-topped clay drains well.

Not sure about needing hydraulics, I assume that would be for a front loader?

Thanks to you all for reading and replying.

[coolrunnin]

Buy for the future in my opinion, make sure it has an FEL and the power to handle future projects you have in mind.