Leather Working Question

[MoonRiver]

Not specifically a leather working question, but I think someone who does it can answer my question.

I want to put 4 3/4" copper rivets in the soles of my gym shoes. That's 2 in each shoe. From looking on the web, it looks to me like belt rivets would work.

Here's the rivets and tool I am looking at. What do you recommend? Cheap is good.

http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-...y+copper+rivet

http://www.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-..._bxgy_ac_img_y

[jennigrey]

Yep, that'll do it. On the rivet set tool, the hole is to tamp the burr (washer) tightly down the shank of the rivet. The burr (washer) is just a little too tight to be able to slide it down the rivet by hand. But both components being made of a very soft metal (copper), you can force the washer down the rivet using the rivet set tool. The hole in the end of the tool is the right size for the number nine rivet.

The concave depression next to the hole in the end of the tool is to dome/mushroom the protruding end of the rivet to prevent the washer from coming back off. You want to use a rivet that is only about 1/8" to maybe 1/4" longer than the thickness of the material you are riveting. Much longer than that, when you are doming/mushrooming the excess protruding rivet, you might just bend the rivet shank over, rather than make a nice dome.

[KIT.S]

My dad had outdoor-only Sorrel boots he took to the local garage and had them stud the soles. We lived in Alaska and he didn't want to slip and fall on the ice. It worked great and lasted many years. Is that what you want to do? I would think thin soled shoes would be less comfortable than thick ones..
Kit

[MoonRiver]

Originally Posted by KIT.S

My dad had outdoor-only Sorrel boots he took to the local garage and had them stud the soles. We lived in Alaska and he didn't want to slip and fall on the ice. It worked great and lasted many years. Is that what you want to do? I would think thin soled shoes would be less comfortable than thick ones..
Kit

I'm making golf tennis shoes! Just kidding, although it's not a bad idea.

I'm trying to make shoes that are grounded, In other words, they will allow my feet to make contact with the ground through the rivets.

[MoonRiver]

Originally Posted by jennigrey

Yep, that'll do it. On the rivet set tool, the hole is to tamp the burr (washer) tightly down the shank of the rivet. The burr (washer) is just a little too tight to be able to slide it down the rivet by hand. But both components being made of a very soft metal (copper), you can force the washer down the rivet using the rivet set tool. The hole in the end of the tool is the right size for the number nine rivet.

The concave depression next to the hole in the end of the tool is to dome/mushroom the protruding end of the rivet to prevent the washer from coming back off. You want to use a rivet that is only about 1/8" to maybe 1/4" longer than the thickness of the material you are riveting. Much longer than that, when you are doming/mushrooming the excess protruding rivet, you might just bend the rivet shank over, rather than make a nice dome.

Thanks.

[simi-steading]

sooo.. why would a person want grounded shoes?

You can't leave us hanging on such a strange project..

[MoonRiver]

Originally Posted by simi-steading

sooo.. why would a person want grounded shoes?

You can't leave us hanging on such a strange project..

Because I need more electrons. Why else?

[simi-steading]

uuuuhh.. yeah... ok...

[Alice In TX/MO]

Hmmmmm. Do you want me to tell you about the lineman we talked to in the hall of the hospital who had the soles of his feet blown off by electricity passing through him and out his feet? Maybe not. Forget I mentioned it. Ssshhhhhh.

[dkhern]

looks like both would work i used the rivits without the tool. in fact until you showed the tool i didnt know one was available. what i do is place the rivit thru material use a pair of needle nose pliers across the washer and on both sides of rivit post tap with ballpeen hamer till washer is well seated flip hammer over and using peen side round end of post. rivits should be available at farm coop get some try one if you dont like the result buy tool if you arent in rush. good luck

[simi-steading]

Originally Posted by Alice In TX/MO

Hmmmmm. Do you want me to tell you about the lineman we talked to in the hall of the hospital who had the soles of his feet blown off by electricity passing through him and out his feet? Maybe not. Forget I mentioned it. Ssshhhhhh.

I thought about this too.. but then I got to thinking... it's winter time, and really dry, and everything you touch causes sparks.. SO.. I'm guessing anti-static sparkless shoes...

[jwal10]

Not a good idea. The rivets will be solid and the soles are mushy. Those rivets will trasfer all the weight and or pounding, on a small spot on your feet and cause sore places. Is it possible to get the rivet under the innersole? So there is some padding. I can't stand anything in my shoe, even some of the honeycomb inside the soles of some shoes make my feet hurt quite fast. Caulked boots (what loggers wear) have thick leather soles that do not compress....James

[MoonRiver]

Originally Posted by Alice In TX/MO

Hmmmmm. Do you want me to tell you about the lineman we talked to in the hall of the hospital who had the soles of his feet blown off by electricity passing through him and out his feet? Maybe not. Forget I mentioned it. Ssshhhhhh.

Don't ever go outside barefoot then, plus people have worn leather soled shoes for centuries. This isn't any different.

[MoonRiver]

Originally Posted by jwal10

Not a good idea. The rivets will be solid and the soles are mushy. Those rivets will trasfer all the weight and or pounding, on a small spot on your feet and cause sore places. Is it possible to get the rivet under the innersole? So there is some padding. I can't stand anything in my shoe, even some of the honeycomb inside the soles of some shoes make my feet hurt quite fast. Caulked boots (what loggers wear) have thick leather soles that do not compress....James

The rivets will be on the ball of the foot and not the heel. I have inserts in the shoes and hope that will give me enough cushion. Plus I'm using 3/4" rivets which will give me a fairly large contact so hopefully it won't feel like a pebble.

[jennigrey]

Originally Posted by MoonRiver

The rivets will be on the ball of the foot and not the heel. I have inserts in the shoes and hope that will give me enough cushion. Plus I'm using 3/4" rivets which will give me a fairly large contact so hopefully it won't feel like a pebble.

3/4" long. Not 3/4" wide. A number nine rivet has a shaft of 5/32" in diameter and a head of 1/2" across.

[jennigrey]

Originally Posted by dkhern

looks like both would work i used the rivits without the tool. in fact until you showed the tool i didnt know one was available. what i do is place the rivit thru material use a pair of needle nose pliers across the washer and on both sides of rivit post tap with ballpeen hamer till washer is well seated flip hammer over and using peen side round end of post. rivits should be available at farm coop get some try one if you dont like the result buy tool if you arent in rush. good luck

Heh, I used to use needle-nosed pliers to set the burr too, and peen the top with a hammer. Then one day a friend of mine gave me a rivet set tool and now I'm all fancy!

[Old John]

Originally Posted by jennigrey

Heh, I used to use needle-nosed pliers to set the burr too, and peen the top with a hammer. Then one day a friend of mine gave me a rivet set tool and now I'm all fancy!

Yes, working with rivets with the proper tools is a lot easier, quicker and makes a better looking job. A small anvil helps a bit too, if you have one.