WWYD - constructing pipe divider for livestock barn

[mamahen]

Sooo, let's see if I can explain this right.

We have a 18ft X 26ft metal barn (Not this one, but one of these kind carports: http://www.tntcarports.com/cgi-bin/p...mage-10226.jpg)

Anyway.....We just got given a load of 2.5 in. pipe. It's in 10 ft sections, with ends that are threaded. We want to gut the barn (again) and use all pipe instead of wood. What we need to do it divide it long-way into 2 sections. So that there are two 9 X 20 stall-type structures. They would both have a pipe gate at the end and would all be covered with welded wire (to keep small goat heads on their own side)

The divider would be 4 feet high and 20 feet long ( keeping 6 foot open at the entrance for me to use as a run-in type for the goats.)

We have a mig welder, air tools, generator, etc. I just cannot think of a good way to attach this "panel" to the barn to make it stable? We could weld it at the back, and we'll have the gates at the front - but we figured on doing 5 poles and 4 pipes high.

Hubby really does not want to dig holes & cement to put in the 5 new poles, and we need to get this all done in one day. That means completely tearing out the current figuration (a loft that is held in place with 8, 4X4 buried 18 in. and all the current wooden stall dividers.) and cleaning out the manure pack and broken pallets (a WHOLE 'nother story ). Then installing the new divider.

[DaleK]

What is at the back end to attach to? I'd just make two more ten foot gates, probably with feet like corral panels, so you can take them out to clean the whole thing. Then you can have them made ahead of time. Or 2 12's would be even better to overlap for stability

[fordy]

..............Me thinks hubby needs to RE think his priorities ! Since you were gifted the most expensive portion of the construction materials I'd invest the time too set Posts in cement and build something very substantial that could be used for pigs , goats , and cows which means I'd build it 5' high and purchase some of those steel , 5'x20'x2"x4"galvinized panels ! Do it once , build IT strong and move on to something else . , fordy

[Bearfootfarm]

With a concrete floor, use brackets on the bottom of the posts, and anchor bolts in the floor

[vallyfarm]

Hafta agree with Fordy here. That seems like a lot of work in 1 day. I'd get all the panels made up' and all brackets ready ahead of time. Could you measure out, and dig/set the poles one day, let the goats back in and let them have a nice scratching post for a while, and then tackle the installation after the concrete has plenty of time to set up? Or do one side this week, the other side next week? Have all the panels welded up after work, so install is easier? If you can get a pipe notcher those panels will weld up a whole lot nicer and last a lot longer. Hope this helps, Mike

[mamahen]

We have to do in one day because the 2 bulls are still in there. they can't be left out in the pasture, because they have NO respect for hotwire. they go in the freezer in Sept. not soon eniugh!!!
Have to look at
a notcher, and does anyone have a close up picture of how to build feet?

[mamahen]

I'll try to getbetter pics later

[Bearfootfarm]

Have to look at
a notcher, and does anyone have a close up picture of how to build feet?

The feet can just be a flat plate with a couple of bolt holes.

The pipe notcher is a specialized tool that cuts a radius in the ends.
I imagine you'll have a tough time finding one to use, but you can do the same thing with a hole saw or a grinder

[fordy]

Originally Posted by mamahen

I'll try to getbetter pics later

............Your local welding shop should have a 'Go By' that slides over the end of the 2.5" OD pipe so you can use chalk to mark a Saddle to fit 2.5 od into 2.5 od for welding ! Old oilfield pipe will sometimes be Very magnitized and actually prevent the the welds from coming together . If , you have this problem , you can either a)use a 'Rosebud' to heat the pipe up just prior to welding , or b)take the negative cable and wrap it around the pipe several times to form an inductance loop which will inhibit the strength of the magnetic field . , fordy

[am1too]

Originally Posted by mamahen

Sooo, let's see if I can explain this right.

We have a 18ft X 26ft metal barn (Not this one, but one of these kind carports: http://www.tntcarports.com/cgi-bin/p...mage-10226.jpg)

Anyway.....We just got given a load of 2.5 in. pipe. It's in 10 ft sections, with ends that are threaded. We want to gut the barn (again) and use all pipe instead of wood. What we need to do it divide it long-way into 2 sections. So that there are two 9 X 20 stall-type structures. They would both have a pipe gate at the end and would all be covered with welded wire (to keep small goat heads on their own side)

The divider would be 4 feet high and 20 feet long ( keeping 6 foot open at the entrance for me to use as a run-in type for the goats.)

We have a mig welder, air tools, generator, etc. I just cannot think of a good way to attach this "panel" to the barn to make it stable? We could weld it at the back, and we'll have the gates at the front - but we figured on doing 5 poles and 4 pipes high.

Hubby really does not want to dig holes & cement to put in the 5 new poles, and we need to get this all done in one day. That means completely tearing out the current figuration (a loft that is held in place with 8, 4X4 buried 18 in. and all the current wooden stall dividers.) and cleaning out the manure pack and broken pallets (a WHOLE 'nother story ). Then installing the new divider.

Then attach said divider to existing wood structure and take out the rest. They make hardware to do this.

[CarolT]

Feet don't work well except on a concrete slab, I thought you said it didn't have an actual flooring?

[PatchworkFarmSC]

Use hose clamps to attach fence panels to the pipe, then you can redo the redo fixing the redo. I'm bad about that here too. Using the hose clamps, no welding, means more time to dig holes. Or make them free standing in a triangluar shape. Bulls can push over mountains. Good luck.

[fantasymaker]

Can you cut and thread some of the pipe?
OR
I know its heresy but "BUY" some pipe?
I would DRIVE my front pipe in the ground with a CAP on the threaded end . Lets say we cut it 5 feet long(half) and drive it 4 feet in the ground leaving 1 foot above ground. Then thread a T on it thread a 1 foot pipe on it and then another T repeat till you put a elbow on the top.
Do the same at the other end.
Thread your 10 foot pipes into the T's
They should overlap in the middle Drive another 5 foot pipe where they lap . Drill a hole thru all the pipes and into the post and BOLT them together there.
Of course you could just bolt everything togather

[Bearfootfarm]

Thread your 10 foot pipes into the T's

You can't thread both ends of a pipe into stationary T's

[fantasymaker]

Thats why I suggested Bolting them to a post where they should overlap a few inches in the middle of the barn.
She has 10 foot pipes and wants a 20 foot divider If you put a post at each end they are 20 feet apart you then thread the rails into T's in them you will find you have about a posts worth of overlap.
Just right to drill thru and Bolt

[mamahen]

We got it up yesterday.


Here's what we did: welded a brace to attach it to the rear of the barn, drove 6 ft stakes into 4 of the posts (12 inches or so deep). Today we will also be putting 7 ft stakes in the posts. (they will be 2 ft deep) We also covered the panels with the welded wire fencing (used because we already had it & didn't have big $$ to put into it)

It's held up through the night....they really gave it a work out wrestling each other and being all together goofballs.

[COWS]

Congrats. I didn't think you could do it in a day, do you hire out??

For fastening these assemblies together, I suggest u bolts that the auto parts stores have for muffler and exhaust assemblies. Have to turn sharp ends of bolts so they wont cut you or livestock.

Disgusting that the bulls ignore electric fence. I use a 50 mile 110 volt charger and the cows, deer, and raccoons have respected it so far.

COWS

[mamahen]

Nope - no help!! Just me, hubby & our teenaged son. It took about 6 hours, and that included cleaning the whole barn (with a skidsteer ) ripping out the wooden stalls and putting up the new stuff. We actually did bolt the panels together. So far, so good.

I should've worked more with these guys as calves. I usually fence break them at a few weeks old - we got these guys at one month and I wanted them a little more tame before I shocked them too much...and then life got in the way. If they are booking thru the field, they just keep going, but if they are moseying around, they respect it. AND if my mule give chase (in play, but they don't appreciate it!) all bets are off!

[COWS]

By "do you hire out?" I was half jokingly asking if you would work for others. Good job on the repairs, anyway.

Ideally, an electric fence supplements a regular fence, such as 4 or 5 strands of barbed wire. If the mule chases them around in a fairly small area I can understand the problem.

COWS